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Pancakeonions

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  1. Cheers! This weekend I put on a bit o paint. I used GW Gray Seer primer on the masts, cannons, Sophie (the figurehead) and the bowsprit. The yard arms (the part of the masts holding the sails) are glued in place, as is the whole of the bowsprit - I didn't think those bits needed to be magnetized. I'll just varnish the heck out of them, so they don't get too scratched up back in the box. I'm planning to use an airbrush with Vallejo German Red Brown - and am hoping that GW contrast Gore Grunter Fur will be a match (ish). We'll see! The dang thing comes with 20 cannons, and I am *not* looking forward to the assembly line work on those guys. I'm planning on doing Sophie in a colorful, gypsy-pirate thing - I have some great contrast paints for that. Is there anything as daunting as a huge line of the same dang mini that you gotta paint... A wee bit later... Got some paint on Sophie and some guns today. Sophie is Wyldwood (skin), Black Templar (hair, boots, belt), Magos Purple (hair bandana), Nazdreg Yellow (shirt), Blood Angel Red (top skirt), Griffhound orange (middle skirt), volupus pink (bottom skirt). I used Scale 75 Gold for the guns, necklace, and belt buckles. I think she looks magnificent, and really appreciate the quick painting time for contrast. The guns are Wyldwood and Black Templar, with Aggaros Dunes for the rope. Leadbelcher for the metal details, and the guns themselves are drybrushed with Iron Warriors (black metal color). The wheel is from the Brinewind Expansion (Skeletal Captain, 712) from Bones V - it has a better base to take a thin magnet than the wheel that comes with the ship. I think she came out A-OK - what might you do to give her that extra je ne sais quoi?
  2. I thought it might be helpful to take a few shots of the magnets holding the decks together. These are the thin bar magnets (there's another photo above that shows a stack of them stuck together). I had originally set eight pairs of magnets (four sets on either end of the ship - the middle set wasn't initially put in) but felt it wasn't quite enough. Adding that last set of magnets in the middle gave the connection enough strength that I could pick up the top hull, and the bottom piece would come with it. You can also see where I put magnets on the underside of the top deck to hold the bowsprit and the aft cabin. Here's where I put two magnets to gently hold the aft deck in place. There's a bit of warping, so that the bottom stairs don't sit quite flush with the decking. Thus the grip isn't as strong as it could be. I may hit it with a hot hairdryer to flatten it, or boiled water or something to get it to sit properly. And it's not a particularly strong hold, just enough to keep the aft cabin from sliding around a lot. Without the magnets it was very easy to bump the cabin as it didn't sit terribly well with the shallow tab-and-slot system they molded into the cabin and deck.
  3. Fantastic work! I'm a little surprised to see so little Sophie-love on this forum. I was hoping to get inspiration for mine by checking out others' work - but maybe it's just you and me, bojesphob? I'm also tracking my work here - trying to magnetize the beast!
  4. I ended up dropping Reaper a note to say hi, and to please knock it off... I reckon if enough folks reach out, maybe they'll do it less?
  5. I track the number of minis I paint, and have been doing this since about 2015 (I restarted painting minis around 2004, after decades off since tackling the old Grenadier models of the 80s with testors enamel and the ridiculous brushes on offer at the time). I’m a fast painter (not necessarily a good painter!), and I’m rapidly approaching my 5,000th model since I’ve been logging my projects. And what better model to be my 5,000th model painted than this beast? Sophie will have her revenge! Let’s get started, then. I was inspired by a few youtube videos (this one, in particular https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFArYs2NFmk ) to try magnetizing my ship, so that I could keep using the box it came in, which is quite nice. Some have reported bad warping with their ships - mine wasn’t too bad at all, but I figured with magnets would look even better as they’d help close any close gaps. Plus it just seemed like a cool project? This was the worst of the warping my ship had. I can live with a gap like this on a model this size. You could add a big magnet here, and that might help close this some. Or add a magnet, then heat up the plastic so as it cools, the magnet helps keep it closed. Here’s a list of the magnets I used to pull this off. All magnet id numbers are from K&J Magnetics, in case you want to try something like this yourself. The N52 is their strongest rare earth magnet and it seems to be working well for me. I’d recommend getting a few extras, for ones you gum up with glue or lose or your kid demands and takes as a new plaything: 4 x D32-N52 (3/16" dia. x 1/8" thick, Nickel Plated, Axially Magnetized) & D33-N52 (3/16" dia. x 3/16" thick, Nickel Plated, Axially Magnetized). The thicker ones are good to sink in where you have the depth, as they hold better. I only used these as the lower magnets to hold Sophie (the figurehead) to the prow, and for the flagpole at the far aft of the ship. 6 x D63-N52 (3/8" dia. x 3/16" thick, Nickel Plated, Axially Magnetized) for the base of the bowsprit and for under the deck where the bowsprit base meets the ship. I also used a few of these under the decks to hold the rear cabin in place, and to hold the wheel atop the rear-most upper deck. 22 x BX022 (1" x 1/8" x 1/8" thick, Nickel Plated, Magnetized thru Thickness) For holding the decks together. Most hold the upper and lower decks together; two I drilled into the aft cabin and they are held in place by two of the 3/8" disks underneath the deck. I might recommend a few more - you could use these (or the 3/8" disks) to help close the gap at the prow if something like that bugs you, or yours is worse - see photo above I also used one very thin bar magnet under the wheel that is magnetized to the aft deck. I got that magnet years ago, and can't recall the size - but it's strong and thin and fits well under the base of the wheel - I'll try to remember to take some pictures of it as I paint it up! I’ll get into the paints I used for the details below. Mostly Citadel stuff. I started with all the magnets, before painting. The plastic is often quite soft; thankfully I have a variable speed drill that doesn’t heat up the plastic much (it will quickly melt, so be careful), but I did notice that it stretches while being drilled so that a ¼” drill bit will create a hole a bit tinier than a ¼” magnet. You can still jam the magnet in there, though (with some effort!) so with a little glue, I feel confident they will be in there to stay. I sometimes took a hobby knife to the plastic, to enlarge the opening a little so that the magnet could enter the hole easier - then just used brute force to jam it in there. The journey of a thousand miles begins with one step. I tested out my drill on this little flagpole that comes off the rear of the ship (and would otherwise project through the back of the box) Putting the bars into the decks was a pain. I had to drill out a line, then use my hobby knife to make it roughly suitable for the bar magnets, then test-jam one in there, then take it out, pour in a ton of Gorilla super glue, jam the magnet back in there, make sure it didn't try to squeeze back out (most would not do this, but a few very annoyingly had to be held in place for a bit), then cover it with another layer of super glue to really hold it in there (these are strong magnets) and wait 24 hours to make sure it had fully cured. Drilling a line of holes in anticipation of carving it out into a line. Messy work, but you won't see this ugly slot when you're playing with it.... I initially thought 8 pairs of bar-magnets would be adequate, but that didn't quite feel sturdy enough, so I added two more for a total of 10 sets of magnet pairs (i.e., 20 bar magnets, 10 in the lower deck, 10 in the upper deck). Now the decks feel pretty good. I can grab the ship by the upper deck, and the bottom comes with. That's what I was hoping for. I think if I had it to do all over again, I would use the upper deck to decide where to seat the magnets... As it was, I'd only used the lower deck to decide where to set the magnets - and unfortunately quite a few were right under a gunport - you can see here, while drilling out the upper deck, I went through the plastic, putting holes into the cannon gunports. Oops. Judicious application of greenstuff will make this look better! I used two sets of magnets, one larger set of disks and one smaller set of disks, to hold the Sophie figurehead in place. A little bit of greenstuff on one of the magnets will help keep it in place (and fills a gap as this was a round magnet put into the rectangular 'slot' that was on the prow). She's on there quite solidly now! I only used one set of magnets for the bowsprit. I was able to use the very thick 3/8" discs, one in the base of the bowsprit, one under the deck, to lock that sucker in place. I very quickly put the (still wet glue) bowsprit into place with the magnet under the deck, so that the bowsprit magnet would "pop out" a tiny bit, and sit flush on the deck atop its counterpart below the deck. There's a gap between the bowsprit and the deck, and magnetic pull drops off very quickly with gaps - this way the glue dried the magnet so that it was touching the plastic, and the gap between the magnets would be as thin as possible. I did have to "break" the bowsprit off the deck (as a little excess glue had dried it in place), but it doesn't look too bad. I kept the tab on the bowsprit intact, as that helps keep it from moving much. It worked quite nicely! I did manage to split the base of the bowsprit while drilling out the magnet, so while it glued in place, I clamped it to ensure it dried tightly around the magnet. Just today I primered the masts, bowsprit, cannons, wheels (one that came with the Sophie, and another that comes from an ocean-themed undead pack from Bones V), and Sophie herself. I aim to slap some paint on them this week, and I will keep updating this as I progress.
  6. Hmm. OK, not just me. It irks me enough that I'll reach out to the team, and ask them to knock it off (or give us a warning or something!) Who knows if it'll make a difference, but if enough folks tell them it's annoying, maybe they'll cut it out.
  7. Hey folks, Is it my imagination, or are some Bones of late getting "bigger" when they probably shouldn't? I'm thinking about the Bones V 3-headed troll (15k backer bonus) as an egregious example, but a few others seem much larger than they need to be (e.g., the pumpkin beholder) - and it looks like Reaper folks have just taken a digital sculpt and enlarged it by 150% (the 3-headed troll has exaggerated features that look really weird against other 30mm figures). I'm really hoping this is an aberration, and that this isn't going to happen to other models. Have they said anything about this?
  8. Has anyone taken any photos of these two beasts alongside each other? I think the FS is one of the few ships out there that's around the same size as SR, but the latter ship is, I think, the biggest thing out there (that I know of!). My few Blood and Plunder models are dwarfed by it. But I'm curious if the FS is even close. Anyone out there who's crazy enough to have both - would you mind posting pics of the two side by side? 🙂
  9. PS I'm thinking of going with Vallejo German Red Brown for the bulk of the hull, masts, etc, and either Vallejo Desert Tan or Skeleton Bone for the upper deck as a first coat. But can't find much details out there on vallejo and Bones - how well do they play together? Cheers!
  10. So I might get a chance to borrow a friend's airbrush, and get a nice basecoat on the ginormous SR. I'm worried about how the airbrushing will take to the hydrophobic Bones material. What do you do to ensure your airbrush paint will "stick" and not bead up on the Bones material? Am I overthinking this? What brands of airbrush paint have you used to do up your Bones? Anyone had any luck airbrushing their Sophie's Revenge? Thanks!
  11. I ended up using some tissue paper (thin paper you use to wrap stuff, or put into gift bags) soaked in watered down PVC glue. It came out OK. Thanks for all the tips
  12. For years, I've always just grabbed a bunch of the stuff, mooshed it up with my fingers (without even wetting them) and used my ungloved hands to manipulate the stuff. I'm reading more and more about wetting your hands to keep it from sticking to you, and now that you should wash your hands when you're done. I don't think I've *ever* done that. What is green stuff? Is it bad for you? Should I be more careful from here on out?
  13. So the new Heroquest comes with some cool new character classes, including one, The Warlock, who can transform into a demon. There's a perfect Reaper Mini for this (Werner Klocke's Virina female demon, SKU: 03084), and she's perfectly dressed to attempt a little bit of sculpting (i.e., naked!) I wanted to try to sculpt tattered clothes onto the demon, to provide a visual cue to link her to the Warlock - who is in a dress. I wasn't quite sure about how to do this - maybe start with thin paper (like a kleenex/tissue even) and soak in PVC glue, then drape it over the models body like a dress might fall, but one that's been torn to shreds in the transformation (the Warlock is also a halfling, so she's smaller than Virina). I don't need a lot of clothes on the demon, I really like the model as it is, but I'd like a visual cue (i.e., same colored clothes) to link the two models. How might you approach this? I'm also new to sculpting. I've used greenstuff before - maybe i should consider how to do this in greenstuff? Any advice would be most welcome, thanks!
  14. I'm here to report back in that while it took me a while to find and buy Testor's brush on Dullcoat, it worked like a charm. The mini is no longer tacky, and I plan to fix a few chips and smudges here and there and apply another coat. But for me at least, Testors seemed to work the necessary magic.
  15. I think I'm going to take the plunge and try my hand at sculpting. I've never done this before, but by way of background, I've gotten inspired by Mantic Armada Twilight Kin (evil elves) because the ship bodies are these cool nightmarish living looking things, but the sails are... dull as dishwater. Seriously, they look like normal sails. This doesn't float my boat, so to speak. I think they'd look much cooler with dramatic membranous wings sprouting from their hulls (The Dragon Lords from the old, long out of print Uncharted Seas looked a little like this, but those ships looked too neat). Thankfully, I just got my Reaper V delivered recently, and I have a few Dragon wings to use as inspiration, but what I'm thinking of would be a bit more upright than these beasts' wings. To help you imagine, hold your first three fingers up. Now imagine a web between fingers 1 and 2, and 2 and 3. Now imagine it all bony, scary, and icky looking. Now you're talkin'! So if you have a moment, could you offer some constructive criticisms / wake up call for my first attempt at sculpting? I've got the basic sculpting tools, and have watched a few "working with Green Stuff" type videos. Here's what I'm thinking: Start with a metal armature. Essentially one (large paperclip maybe?) thin rod I would shape into a finger structure (bent a little at each "knuckle") to make up the pointer finger. The sail will be about 2.5-3" tall, so I'd make sure there's plenty of room at the bottom to stick it into a cork for sculpting, and (trim it a little first) eventually into the recipient ship hull. I would use two more paper clips to make the "ring finger" and the "middle finger" of the sail. I'd probably have <1" space between the fingers, TBD once I see the models. I'm not yet sure what I'd use, but to the tips of each finger I'd attach a "claw" that would serve as the fingernail for each sail-finger. Any ideas on what might serve as a nasty, pointy, "fingernail"? I'd then build up and sculpt each finger using Green Stuff/ Kneadite, one at a time, until I have the three fingers done. I think I'd let each finger cure before starting the next, as I am almost guaranteed to screw up the sculpting on one if I start another early...! Advice here on how to sculpt creepy scales, sagging or rotting flesh, knuckles, etc. would be most appreciated, as I think this is my weak spot! Then I wasn't quite sure what to do about the sails/ wings themselves. Maybe just use tissue paper soaked in diluted white glue to hold its shape? Should I try to use green stuff to make a thin "sail" between each finger? What would you use to support the Green Stuff while you're working with it? I'd like it to be strong enough that I can cast a mold of it, to make several sails for the navy I've bought. Any advice for the beginner? Is anyone aware of any sculpting tutorials that focus on wings? Thanks in advance!
  16. Same effect on brain cells... I've known for ages that my brain was tacky, but not *that* tacky...
  17. Got my Reaper Bones V goodies a bit ago, and slapped some paints onto the Pumkinhead beholder. I used Citadel Wraithbone primer, contrast paints, and Army Painter Matte varnish and... months later it remains slightly tacky. It's not... awful. But it's enough that if I put it away in a box with other minis, I'm afraid it won't mix well. I've left it out in the sun for a day, thinking that might 'bake' the stickiness out of it... It did not. I got Reaper Bones because I figured I could paint, varnish and throw into a box with all my prepainted minis. Some of my older bones remain slightly tacky too. But I figured that with this new round of Reaper Bones, they would have got that figured out. I've painted up the undead giant, but not yet varnished him and I'm afraid to! I've read the various Reaper Bones help threads, many of which are very old (and one sent me to Facebook, though it looks like it's no longer available. I don't do social media anymore, so not sure?). Does anyone have any advice to help a guy out? I'm pretty sure I shook my rattlecan varnish adequately. I do live in western San Francisco and wonder if the humidity (fog, it's often cool and misty regardless of the season) may affect this. I try to wait until the weather is clear. What are you doing to keep your Bones stickiness-free? Any advice you might have would be helpful. Update 3 Nov 21: over time the tackiness was getting worse; I could no longer pick up the model for fear of leaving a nasty finger print... (In particular, the elements that had GW's "Nurgles Rot" technical paint for some reason reacted really badly, and were quite gooey!) But I finally got a pot of Testors brush on Dullcoat/varnish and it worked like a charm. The figure is no longer tacky. If that changes, I'll come back to update again! 🙂
  18. ...And what about casualties (dead guys)? Probably not a "must buy" for folks, but would you all consider doing an add on with a bunch of dead dudes that you could sell later in smaller packs of dead humans, dead elves, dead dwarves, dead orcs, dead flumphs, etc. I think there are few dead knights (in metal). I'd love to see more options in Bones (do folks from Reaper read these suggestions? anyone here who's been paying attention see some of these suggestions make the last few kickstarters?) Cheers!
  19. No, the deck is perfectly flat (you can see a very faint irregularity in the deck where the magnet sits, but only if you know where to look - otherwise it just looks like the wooden planking of the deck) so when you remove the masts, you have a flat, level playing surface for all the toy-soldierin' you're gonna be doing with this puppy! There are small thingamajiggers that you glue in to the rear of each mast that provide a visual cue as to where the masts go if you take off the masts for some reason, but no socket per se For you Reaper experts out there - this seems to be a mix of HIPS and the more rubbery bones material (it's gray, so perhaps their newer 'bones black' recipe?). As pointed out above, an airbrush would be a great way to paint this, but ... I don't have a great set up to accommodate one. I will probably go with a rattlecan primer/ basecoat. What is the best spray on primer to go with Bones Black?
  20. Also.... Are there any instructions on assembly? It does look pretty clear, but I'm not 100% on where to glue, and where not to glue...
  21. OK, now that I've seen it, I need more ships like Sophie's Revenge! I need a high fantasy orc battle barge with which to do battle! A massive undead cruiser! A demonic ship of the line, crewed with the devil himself! But I realize that this baby is probably gonna be unique. It's HUGE. I have the undead barge and it's neat, but wouldn't last 30 seconds in a battle with Sophie's Revenge. Sure would love to see Reaper make more large models like this - terrain, village houses, ships, what about Chariots for wargames? Have they ever thought about doing Chariots???
  22. I am stunned at my recently arrived Sophie's Revenge, and so excited to get it to the painting table (I will have to significantly reconfigure my painting space to ensure I have enough room... As well as buy LOTS of new brown paint, ha!) It is a thing of beauty, even without a lick of paint on it. One of the first things I noticed was how the magnetized masts SNAP to the deck, hard. That's what you want, so they'll stay firmly in place. But when you remove 'em, they'll likely scratch the heck out of the painted deck. So I plan to cut disks of black felt to glue to the underside/ magnet-side of the masts, so that when they stick, they're more gentle. Thin felt should not affect how they stick, but it should make a big difference on the ship's wear and tear. Are you planning on painting yours? What strategies are you going to adopt to make it as beautiful as you can, while still keeping it sturdy as a plaything for your RPGs, wargames, or maybe even little kids (don't judge! mine are gonna be all over this thing!)
  23. I just tried the new GW / Citadel spray primers for their Contrast range, Grey Seer. It worked well; it's a bit chilly here, but nothing too bad (San Francisco in the winter is more like late spring in most places...). I also used Contrast paints on the models. I absolutely love how great it looks with a single coat (with touch ups) but still found even with the primer that paint is pretty hydrophobic and would bead up a lot on the models. You really have to be patient while you apply - carefully and methodically working it over the "hydrophobic" bits; it eventually settles down and stays put. But a few hours later, I look over the model again, as inevitably a few little spots here and there don't stay put, and I have to cover up those bits. You must varnish if you use contrast paints, however. I've found using regular hobby acrylic paints, handling the models before varnish is fine; with Contrast, you do run a small risk of rubbing the paint off - so varnish as soon as you can. All in all, I'm a fan of Contrast for speed and how it looks. It's a bit finicky, and not very durable. So for those of you with more patience, maybe stick to other brands/types of paints? Has anyone else found this to be true too?
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