airhead

Uncle Sam's Misguided Children Sub buddies call all other ships "targets" LST = Large Slow Target

Tommorrow is Veteran's Day or Rememberance Day. The 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month.

Instead of a sponge brush, have you considered a natural sponge and dabbing it? Never completely cover an area. Nearly cover the black with a dark gray and work your way up to a light greay with less coverage each time you change paints. the natural sponge will not get down into the creases and will enhance the depth and texture. something like the way they did this: http://www.hot-lead.org/advance/texturing_marble.htm

mattmcl, you can find W&N S7's at large chain, fine arts stores (Pearls, Sam Flax, Dick Blick, etc.) You can also find them on-line at a few places. Rumor has it that someone is selling them on ebay even. I know that Michaels does not carry them. Try one, I think you will find that a 0 is about as small as you need. They have such a better point than any of the lesser/cheaper brushes that I have used. I have settled on using a 0 mini and a 1 standard for 90% of my work now. **** I have also found that Reapers Master Series brushes (black handles) stack up very well against W&N S7's. There are some differences, but they hold up well to serious painting.

The link to Dragon Miniatures is great. I think you have a slight misunderstanding of what a light tent is supposed to be and do. Heavy paper will not transmit and difuse the light, it will be near opaque. The material should be somthing that you shine light through. The fabric will disperse and difuse the lighting as it comes in, giving the illusion that the mini is lighted from all directions instead of one or two points. Two lamps is about the minimum for a light tent with 3 better. Try cheap halogen desk lamps or standard bulb swing arm lamps with the HalogenA bulbs in them. As to fabric for you light tent, try window sheers. Nice white thin 'curtains'. I got some to cover a sliding glass door for less than $20 and was able to cut them up.

If you lived closer, I'd bring my airbrushes by.

google up some spider picks or tarantuala picks. Find one you like and use it for a guide. I am personally fond of something like this:

Have you tried reducing the paint with some flow improver or glaze medium? Put a bit of the paint with a lot of reducer in a sealable container (old paint bottle or film can) add an aggitator and shake away. Most tube acrylics require a bit of work to reduce to the levels that we can use.

miliput is water soluble while pliable. you can make a dilute miliput 'wash' to fill in pinholes in resin models. Better models wont' have much in the way of pinholes, but some of the garage shop stuff you gotta do a lot of body work on. Prime well. Duplicolor automotive primer (Wal Marx and others) or similar should work. Tamaya is great primer, but a bit pricey for my usual stuff.

Basicly, you got a carrier for a supersized con-ex box. I'd almost leave the cargo area vertical wall to maximize the interier. Looks like it could be double decked as well. Possible gun pods on the box as well as the carrier. The box becomes your fortress/defense point.

There is a major difference between getting a 100-200 piece army on the table quickly vs. painting a gold demon winning entry. If your aim is to teach young painters to get an army on the table, assembly line painting techniques are in order. But you do give up lots of quality with this type of painting. If you take a pic of one of these minis and blow it up on your monitor, you will see the skin looks like stucco from the unthinned paints. From across the table, it looks fine. Back to answering your original question. Use a toothpick to transfer a few drops of paint to a pallet (cheap white ceramic tile from the home center works fine). Add a few drops of water or your favorite mix of goop - I start at 1:1 paint to thinner. If you are going to layer up highlights, then then more for each layer. This does 2 things. It stops your paint pot from drying out. The GW design exposes lots of surface area to the air when the lid is open. And it helps you become a better painter.

If you can get and maintain a good point with the red handled brushes, use them. Don't count on them lasting for a long time. I have some Reaper Master Series and W&N S7's that are over 5 years old. (I don't think the Reaper's are - but I bought them as they were released.) I paint at least every other night for about an hour a session. I am brutal on my brushes and am just now looking to replace my W&N "0" that does 75% of the work on my minis. Switching to W&N's (or Reaper's Master Series) - there is a bit of adjustment as they behave just a bit different than the hog or synthetic brushes. You have to learn to pull the paint - not push it. Would you rebuild a race car engine with a cresent wrench? It is a good general purpose tool, but there are better more specific tools out there.

You say "was" as in you are no longer working on these. Why?

You use flow improver to stop inks from flowing? You use this stuff straight?

common size pin items: #76 = 0.019" = staple #60 = 0.040" = standard paper clip #55 = 0.052" = large paper clip

It is great stuff if you want an egg-shell to semi-gloss finish that may turn your work white as it reacts with the moisture in the air or you got a bad can that is about like white primer. Other than that, I find a full can makes a pretty good doorstop.

Anne, does just adding a bit of gunk make them work? or are they just doomed pots? So far, my camo greens seem to thin out on the pallet and I was just going to put some airbrush media into the bottles and send them to the paint shaker.

I see parts extending across your boards. Are the boards designed so that they can be rearranged to create multiple layouts? If I remember right, you can get 6 layouts from 4 boards if the edges have to remain on the outside: 1-2 3-4 1-2 4-3 1-3 2-4 1-3 4-2 1-4 2-3 1-4 3-2 All other combinations would be rotations of those I listed.

MSP and Pro Paints both come with little Reaper skulls in each pot/bottle. No need to add any more bits. But if you feel like you must, I'd use either lead pellets or bits of sprue left over. Lead will oxidize eventually, but not like the copper, brass or steel bb's would.

Simply put , No ! Harpies and the Hill Giant are part of the Noghra list . Thanks, I stand corrected. *looking for smack forhead smilie*

Can we get the order of the faction book releases. Lots of people here act like they know, but I cannot seem to find it with the forums search. In production: 1. Necros. 2. Crusaders. 3. Reven 4. Nefsocar Pending: 5. Overlords (seen in the preview) 6. Mercs (there is a thread where their book is getting bumped up) 7. 8. 9. 10.

Doesn't adding the hill giant break the Nahgra list? eliminating the "you be the leader" and "ignor chain of command" ? Meaning you'd need captains because you have more than 2 sgts. Gotta go home and read the book again tonight.

Would like to see the particulars of that game. Cannons shouldn't get more than 2 shots off before the goblins were all over them. If you are careful, the cannons shouldn't get more than 2 maybe 3 goblins in a line. That could desimate around half of your forces, but 50 goblins should be able to get some B2B on the cannons. (no ranged combat if someone is B2B with you). 8-10 goblins on a cannon should make short work if they get there. Was the terrain separated by a choke point (bridge or something)?

1000 pts 66 goblins @ 15 pts = 990 11 get named "You be the leader" and become 4-10/1 sgts. each with 5 other goblins in his troop. one sgt gets a divine blessing. 11 initiative cards. This would be very vulnerable to area effect spells until you could spread out. Then swarm the enemy, roughly one troop per enemy opponent. Been thinking about this for a while. May be a one-trick pony, but could it work?

Got some new MSP's (third set) and some of them seem really thick. Shake the heck out of them then go to squeeze a drop out and you get a string instead of a drop. What's up?