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airhead

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Everything posted by airhead

  1. My new terrain book describes using gloss gel medium then putting plaster at the bottom where the water would be frothey. Then stippling the plaster just before it sets to get it foamy.
  2. that is some great city scape. run down of what is what? I recognize the wedding cake columns, some stryro packing, but the rest is a mystery to me. What are the tops, roofs, railings and bas reliefs?
  3. sweet scrap up. Looks good. What is the landing pad?
  4. Ivar, somewhere on Hirs Arts forums I once saw a compairison that linked to even another article. Anyway, yes, you can make hirs arts work with Dwarven Forge. You don't get the key lock but you save a bunch of money.
  5. Are we going to see a MSP brass triad coming soon? maybe even start with a dark brown tarnished brass? A copper set (maybe it would take 2 triads?) that goes from patina green to new penny? And will someone ever make an electrum or adimantium paints?
  6. If she's going to wear eyeshadow into battle, (or is that dwarven fromal wear?) then she needs a bit of eyeliner and lipstick. Nice. She looks like she could take a couple of orcs without messing up her hair.
  7. A wash or glaze is a thinned down paint or ink used to darken the tone. Apply as kind of a combination of the two. For example: Red cloak, green pants, blue shirt (ugh, but for example) Put the dark red wash on the cloak all over it is fine, then come back and put some highlights on the tops of the creases. (drybrush or layer - your choice). Then do the same with the dark blue on the shirt and similar with some dark green on the pants. Order is not important, but I like to work from the deepest layers up (inside of cloak, pants, shirt, outside of cloak, skin, hair, )
  8. sweet, I wanna come play on your table...
  9. I may eventually, but she was for a friend's 30th birthday. He is putting together a dwarven warband.
  10. Got it in yesterday. some great stuff here. Mostly for static diarama displays, but great hints for building show bases.
  11. Here she is in her red-haired glory: Feel free to go vote, leave comments, etc.
  12. go to your local home center (home despot, lowest, Aced, ect.) and look for bagged sand - several sizes are available. My favorite is play sand - about $3 for a bag that will do more minis than you can ever imagine. Model railroad ballast would work and comes in several grades too. Kitty litter is generally a bit coarse for gravel path, more like rough terrain. Also seal kitty litter with a good layer of glue to avoid moisture problems. (it will disolve slightly in the glue, but after the glue sets, it should be solid. Whatever you use, mix a bit of another size with it. The only place that I know of that you can walk on a single size aggregate is along the railroad tracks. Every where else is a blend of several sizes of rocks. Let the glue dry, put a dark (brown or grey) wash on it and give it a drybrush of (tan or light grey) to give it some depth. Depending on the 'age' and care level of the gravel, you may add some spots of static grass to give it the 'encroaching crabgrass' look. A wavy grassy edge looks old but serviced, bits of grass in the gravel can make the path look older and less cared for.
  13. Thanks for the heads up. I am not familiar with that product - polyester resin? separate catalyst (2-part)? or like elmers clear/water effects?
  14. It's all good. but just a hint on your tactics - if the archers pick off the remainder, be sure they are out of base-to-base with your fighters. Nothing worse than having your friends fire into your melee. Tends to frighten the fighters.
  15. Ordered it. Looks like it is geared toward model RR or some of the old Fine Scale Modeler stuff.
  16. A small section from a MSDS for microballoons: which is as safe or safer than baking soda: and much safer than many other things we play with: CA glue, epoxy, latex, etc. easiest place to locate them is at a radio controlled model store (planes/cars/boats) They use them to thickne epoxy to a putty or gel consistency and to build up fillets with CA glue. They come in tubs or bottles. You'll want to check, because it feels empty - just don't spill them all over the floor like I did my first batch.
  17. yep, about 30 pages. Damage is not instantaneous. It is applied at the end of each combat phase (spell, range, melee), so defensive (strikes/shots/spells) are done before damage is dealt for THAT phase.
  18. dirt is basicly where the grass and rocks are not. would be somewhat smooth on our scales. Painting is the key to make it believeable. if you need to build up some mud, use the snowbase (pva and baking soda or microballoons) and paint it mud colored. (just a thought, if you are looking for just a hint of texture, mix a bit of microballoons in your paint and paint as normal)
  19. Mchish, I beg to differ, I have double pinned large minis (Gauth, Marthrangle) and used Zap-A-Gap on the joints. Had one take a tumble off of the table with only a paint chip, slightly bent wing tip and some base damage. Pinning is the secret. I use staples for the fine stuff (elves and orcs hands), paper clips for the medium stuff (small dragon parts) and large paper clips for the larger dragon parts with many of them getting 2 pins - like the wings.
  20. Tommy, those Paashes are solid work horse guns. Play with it and enjoy.
  21. less messy alternative: get a chapstick. spin the drill in it then drill away. Don't use the chapstick for your lips again though.
  22. I generally bend one end of the tab on the mini to make a tight fit. Then tack the mini into the base with super glue, then turn it over and fill the gap with either baking soda or microballoons. Add another drop of super glue and you now have a hammer proof bond. Do this in a well ventilated area. Super glue and micro ballons makes for a rapid reaction.
  23. Zap makes two products that are useful (most CA glues do as well, but Zap is common). Zap regular is very thin. If the joint is near perfect, put the pieces together and touch a drop of Zap to the joint. The CA will wick into the joint and make a very strong bond. I use this for the pins. Zap-a-Gap is thicker and will bridge minor gaps in a joint. Put a bit on one side and put the two pieces together. Hold for a minute or so. With any CA (super) glue - more is not always better - generally the opposite. Too much and it delays cure times and has the chance of escaping the joint and getting where you don't want it. It makes a very hard spot on clothes that will break and leave a hole in your good slacks. As mentioned, the fumes from CA glues are not good. Generally, if you can smell it, you are not well enough ventilated. That stuff will do nasty things to your lungs - almost like putting in a Rhinoguard coating. In the levels that most of us use it, the chanses of doing real damage is minimal, but for people that are glueing every day (or shooting automotive clear coats) use a respirator.
  24. I understand about spaying in humid envronments. (Florida). Let it set over night, preferably in a warm DRY place. Indoor with air conditioning would be best under a lamp. If that does not work, try applying another coat on a dryer day. The wet layer on top will soften and recoat the hazy stuff and make it clear again. Brushing on another layer will accomplish the same thing. If that does not work, start searching for articles on the best stripper. As to the metals, come back with some brush on gloss coat for the metals or give them a final ink wash again. Either will put some gloss back on the metals and make them look right. Use a separate brush for the brush on lacquers than you use for painting.
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