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Everything posted by airhead

  1. Look in the spice section, there is a line that comes with it's own grinders: Tip N' Grind from Alessi. They have a pizza topping that is good for that, lots of reds & browns and yellow. Look in the spice section, there is a line that comes with it's own grinders: Tip N' Grind from Alessi. They have a pizza topping that is good for that, lots of reds & browns and yellow. Last fall, I sent Lady Tam an SASE and she was kind enough to send me some autumn leaves in red, yellow & orange (we don't get much change in FL). I have kept them dried and crush up a bit of them on a base.
  2. TS, I have found that GS is very poor adhesive. I use pins and Zap-a-Gap to glue, then get the little bits of GS and the dental tools out. Pack the GS into the joint, then make it look as much like the surrounding area as my poor sculpting skills allow.
  3. you now have a painting shirt. The CA has set, it has soaked into the threads and made them brittle. Next couple of washings will cause them to break, opening up a hole where the CA is. I've lost a few pants this way. Try soaking the area in acetone. If it softens, scrub the heck out of it. If it works, great, if not, you really haven't lost anything at this point.
  4. Thanks, never would have thought of a 4 dragon game. WOW. hmmm, ideas for other monster only demos... And yes, see my sig, I am BL #FL007 - 3 other BL's and myself just finished working MegaCon in Orlando. Attendance in the thousands. We ran over 350 through the paint-n-take, had Warlord & CAV1.5 demos and a Warlord Tourney.
  5. Well, it did not turn into the capture the flag type game I was hoping, it turned instead into a last man standing as they beat the stuffing out of anyting that got on the catapault until only one force was left. The orcs did manage to fire the thing though. Missed the target, rolled bad drift & range. Managed to drop it back upon themselves - well worth the laugh all around. "the orcs missed the ground."
  6. I've run several demo games using 6 players with 500pt troops, all of them after a dragon. I have decided that this is not the best new player intro I can do. Setup/configuration: 6 players, each with 2 troops - no mages 1st 10 minutes - explain card stuff: MA, RA, Mov, MAV, RAV, DV, etc. 1st 2 turns are generally movement up the hill to get the dragon. Disadvantages: With 12 troops, sometimes the cards can take a while to come back to your turn. It takes awhile for new players to understand their options on a turn. Hard for some to hold focus on the game when it takes a while to come back around to your turn. Once the dragon is engaged, it gets very crowded at the top of the hill. Takes 2-3 hours to run the demo. New Thoughts: Six players again, but really 3 1-on-1 games going simultaneously on the same table. Simple objective - last man standing with the guy opposite you. Smaller troops (200 pts each) - 1 sgt or captain, 3 grunts (generally), 1 archer - again no mages for a raw intro game. Three different sets of initiative cards (2 card decks) Simple terrain. Double table. (5' wide by 6' long) with the play area roughly in thirds (each combat would be on an area of 2' wide by 5' across). Couple of stone fences scattered around for the archers to use as cover. Explain MA, RA, Mov, MAV, RAV, DV. Lightly touch on the rest (Dis, CP, MD) This should be playable in about an hour. Most Cons are set up on 3 or 4 hour gaming schedules - would allow 'shifts' in each game slot. Ok? Anything I missed?
  7. Not griping, but Divine Favor still is not in the Downloadable Equipment Data Cards.
  8. Dagger strokes with an airbrush? (well, that is what is looks like)
  9. It is an old resin kit. After looking at it though, it looks very possible to make a balsa one that actually works. A real Gob-Lobber
  10. I just posted in the warlord section some of the terrain used at Megacon last weekend here
  11. The final battle became a 3 way. The Crusaders took the Necros off of the board, but at too great a cost. The Reven then moved in and swept the field. The last of the Crusaders preparing for an orc charge: Goblin Skeeters setting over in the corner doing what they do best: Valandil holding off another wave of orcs. The orcs coming through the trees: The seige engine after the orcs fired it. They managed to miss the ground they were aiming at, rolled poorly on drift and range and ended up dropping it on themselves.
  12. I do intro painting classes at the FLGS. Normally, I will take: 3x reading glasses (eyes are getting old) brushes pin drill zap-a-gap paper clip (to open stubborn dropper bottles) 4.5" ceramic tiles (because I have a bunch left from my bathroom redo) 2 32oz water bottles with a pump of soap in each (in the mall, it is hard to get water without a treck to the restrooms at the other end) rinse cups (I find frosting containers perfect - yougert cups can be top heavy roll of paper shop towels (less lint) brush soap rubber wine corks to glue mini on (soda bottle caps also work) RMS paints - full set 4 dropper bottles of super water GW inks rebottled into empty RMS bottles Can of DulCoat. Most of this fits in 2 of the plasic cases. They then fit in a stackable office crate (letter x legal) with the stuff that doesn't fit. OTT light if I am going to a con and know the lights suck. primed minis if at all possible, otherwise we have cleaning lessons (x-acto & needle files) and primer. I also try not to use Sandra Garrity sculpts as her eyes are smaller than everyone else's. Love them for myself, but they are harder to teach eyes with. Basing class is a whole nother box of stuff: fine turf, static grass (2 or 3 colors) ground up leaves (Thanks again to Lady Tam) Greenstuff Milliput cork some layered 'slate' made with layered sculpy & super sculpy. sand model railroad ballast more zap a gap (I often use watered elmers, but not for class, cannot wait overnight between steps)
  13. Yes, that example is some seriously nice NMM. BUT (always one of those eh?), you can get similar effects with true metalic paints. Start out with gun metal, work your way up through the metals all the way to mithril for the highlights. Your paints have to be thinned so the layers are smooth (just like the 'regular' paints). Another technique. Paint your mid-tone color, get some Tamaya brand paint called Smoke (you'll find it in stores where they do RC cars - and get a bottle of thinner too). It is like a thin wash you paint over the metal that really gives it some shadow. Finally, use some silver or white to create the hot spots. Most of all, have fun with it.
  14. Sorry, the play surface is a 4' square. It contains 9 terrain tiles (16" square). I have about 12 available of various terrains (swamp, trees, hills, etc.) I am allowing the players to define the terrain they want to play in (positive for you, maybe negative for your opponent?)
  15. Warlord Tournament Rules: Terrain Setup: 1. Determine the number of initiative cards (1 per each leader, solo & tactician) 2. If the number is less than 9, add one more card per player (force). 3. When your forces card comes up, you may choose a tile and place it on the play surface. a. If you have a spy, you may ‘burn’ your terrain card to the bottom of the deck. You may use this ability once per spy in your force. 4. If all 9 tiles have been placed, you may exchange any two tiles in play or you may pass. Force Size and Configuration: 1. Standard Warlord 2nd Edition rules regarding forces will apply 2. Force requirement for this is a max of 900 points. Deployment: 1. The initiative deck will be reset to conform to the standard deck (1 per each leader, solo & tactician) 2. When your Force’s card comes up, you place the card on one side of one square at the edge of the play area. a. If you have a spy, you may ‘burn’ your deployment card to the bottom of the deck. You may use this ability once per spy in your force. 3. Once each Force has determined it’s starting position, the forces deploy along the boarder off of the play area (1.5” by 12”) Objective: 1. Your objective is to get the abandoned siege engine off of your side of the board. 2. The siege engine must be ‘manned’ for it to move. 3. The siege engine cannot me ‘manned’ by Monster troops or units with Beast SA. a. With one man, the siege engine will be considered at 2 damage b. With two men, the siege engine will be considered at 1 damage c. With three men, the siege engine will be considered at 0 damage. 4. The siege engine itself cannot be damaged. 5. The manning crew will be attacked according to their normal stats individually while manning the siege engine – the siege engine cannot be attacked. 6. Opposing forces cannot man the siege engine while it is manned. 7. The siege engine my move and fire normally while manned. 8. The siege engine does not have the Warmaster SA for this game, but grants Deflect to those manning it. 9. As the manning crew is not trained, the siege engine has been altered.
  16. I have been in the process of builing a selection of 15" square tiles of various terrains. The idea being that the tiles can be re-arranged, or different selections made to change the play table quickly for a game. Base of the tiles are 15 inch square pieces of 3/4" pink or blue foam - light, rigid and cheap. Some squares have multiple layers (hills) and some have various terrain features (trees, swamp, etc.) The problem seems to be with the material I used for earth texture - Celuclay. This is a paper-mache type product that dries hard and I use it to creat slight differences in terrain as I go. BUT (there's always a but - isn't there?) This stuff must shrink as it dries/cures, because all the tiles with significant area covered with Celuclay are pulled up at the corners. It is too close to MegaCon for me to make a fix now, but any idea for the next round of tiles?
  17. Rule 1, thin your paints. At the scales that we paint, a 'normal' layer of craft (acrylic) paint will look like stucco on a mini. Ya gotta thin the paints (even if it is just clean water - lots of other things people put in there to help). I depends on the brand of paints as to how much you thin them. Some paints are very thick and can be thinned 1:2 paint/thinner (Citidel, Reaper Pro, most craft paints) The Reaper Master Series are thinner to start with and I generally go 1:1 with them. Someone told me when I was starting "I you can cover it in one coat of paint, your paints are too thick. It should take at least 2 coats to get enough color build up for coverage." Not wanting to open the craft paint vs. mini paint can of worms. I will say that some of the craft paints have trouble if you go way thin on them for washes. The pigments and emulsions just are not suited for that. OK? Other side of that coin - craft paints are cheap - generally around $0.50 or less vs. $2 plus for mini paints and you get more. I use both craft & mini paints, but generally only use the craft paints on terrain or other large areas. Next, what brushes are you using? Good sable brushes are a plus - but you HAVE to take care of them. Nylon brushes are pretty good for a while, but the bristles will curl on you. Don't push paint - that is a good way to get a brush that looks like an afro. There are lots of good articles and tutorials around on the net. This forum in the sticky section above http://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft on Reaper's home page http://www.coolminiornot.com/article Cool Mini or Not (CMON) articles. http://www.jenova.dk/ Jenova who paints amazing. and many (mini?) more.
  18. Ditto Doing painting classes 2 nights a week, I go through some brushes. Part of the class is to learn to properly clean and care for the brush at the end of the night. Masters' Brush Soap after every session. I use the W&N stuff about once a quarter to soak a brush overnight. Clip a small paper clamp to the brush so only the hair and the tip of the ferruel are in the solvent. Next day, swish and pull across a clean towell - amazing. Masters soap again to recondition the hair and repoint the brush and a throw-away brush becomes usable again.
  19. Title says it all. Got a battle report that needs to be trashed and started over - or have a pro fix it. 01/29/06 Players: Winners: Grumb (1004-05-015) Dwarves ZydeinZyrus (1027-05-051) Elves Losers: Lord of The Gnomes (1027-04-012) Reven Airhead (1027-04-002) Necropolis Points 650 each (2600 total) This should be the only game played on that date for each of us.
  20. Techstar snowflakes or find a model airplane store and get a bottle of microballoons (the bottle is NOT empty, they are very light) Bit of elmers white glue, coffee stirrer and away you go. Too much glue and it flows and looks like slush snow. Mix it very lean and you can sculpt the snow drifts. To get a sparkle on top of the snow, sprinkle a bit of alum (find it on the spice rack) on before it is set.
  21. Staples and a #76 bit or Paper clip and a #66 bit. and I too use the palm drill to drill the fine bits. I find the bits very brittle and any sideways kinks will break the bits off - so I get them at about 20 at a time.
  22. Field grass is long and can be trimmed to make weeds or monkey grass. Static grass usually comes in a shaker bottle from WS and is much shorter. Field Grass: Static Grass:
  23. Hit the local Michaels/Hobby Lobby/craft store and look for the christmas closeouts. Got a set of antlers that you wear on your head with blinking lights (6 or so) for a couple of bucks, easy to disassemble.
  24. Rastl, how did you get the trunks fuzzy?
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