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Everything posted by airhead

  1. *airhead starts digging through bins - wondering if any of his Junk (junque) is worthy*
  2. SWEET! Elastic or velcro loops to hold the bottles?
  3. Sounds like you are on your way to becoming a Black Lightning Demo painter?
  4. I have a round patio table - put a newspaper on it. and then a paper plate. put 10-20 minis on the paper plate and walk around the table priming all of them from every direction. The table is a metal thing painted white. So if I don't put the paper down, and just paint, I just help it stay white a bit longer, but don't tell my wife.
  5. Is it possible to use different bottle tops for some of the non-paint products in the MSP line? Black caps for liners for example? The first thing I do is put a drop of paint on the tip of the cap on all the paint colors, but all the liners look black anyway, so why not use black caps to keep them separate? Being an engineer and way too retentive, I keep my paints in product order, but am seriously rethinking that with this latest set. The sealer / primer / thinner triad needs to be separate as well as the brights.
  6. Brush Licker Glad to here it was not the finishing touches on your 2000 hour golden demon.
  7. First, let me say I really like it. A couple of small tents and the party has instant night camp. BattleMountainMinis nailed the OSL on the rocks thing. In addition, the rounded smooth gray rocks are hard to find except in some stream beds and old glacial till. Most rocks are more angular - the two larger ones in the back seem more real. They also have a bit more varied color. Maybe try bits of cork for the firepit rocks to get that rough rock look? Or go with flatter rocks reflecting old flagstone type rock?
  8. I have used the roll-up canvas brush carrier, but found it a major hassle. If you were not carefull, when you fold it over, you fold up all of your brush tips. Ugh. I end each painting class with a short segment on brush care. Each student gets to wet the brush and swirl it around the Masters' Brush Soap, final rinse and retip the brush for the next class. Ideally, they would then be dried in a postion where the bristles were pointing down - keeping water from collecting in the furrel. But sadly, I often stack them together and put them handle first into a large cup in my carrier and take them home.
  9. The Reaper Master Series brushes (black handles) are very good brushes. I just wish they came in 0, 2/0 & 3/0. The W&N S7's are my mainstay brushes, they have painted 2 armies and are still going strong. finding a cheap brush with a decent tip is always a challenge. I am always looking for some for painting classes. Something with a tip good enough to do eyes, that will last for more than one student, and will be economical to replace. My latest best shot has been the W&N Cirrus line - available at Michaels. They don't have the great tips of the S7's but they are sable and do last for a few students.
  10. In case no body has mentioned it, that is fantastic.
  11. I would. Even Createx says that you can get by without heat setting, but I found the colors last much better if you set them. (I've got a large press, so it doesn't take much extra for me to set a shirt). On the other hand, this sounds like a one-time wear shirt - field trip. So if they were not set, and faded in the first wash, no great loss. I would get a bunch of scrap cardboard (nothing waxed), put the shirts each on it's own board. Spray a bit of sticky on the pumpkin stencil. Only one gun: Do all the pumpkins orange. Move the stencil to the next shirt. Spray orange, continue. Change to a brown orange mix and do the creases in the pumpkins (freehand?) Change to a yellow orange and do the highlights on the pumpkins (also freehand) Change to Stem Stencil: Change to green and make a stencil for the stem. Shoot all the stems. Change to a dark green and give the stems a bit of depth/texture. Change to cut-out stencil: Black (or dark brown) outline the stencil Bright yellow the interior of the eyes and mouth cut outs. (you may have to shoot some white first to get opacity for the yellow) Strip them all off of the cardboards and throw them in the dryer for an hour on the hottest setting. If I had multiple guns, (3?) I would do one shirt and move on, minimizing the repositioning of the stencils, or at least mix up the colors for one stencil Hope this helps... you should be able to shoot this in about 4 hours with this assembly line method. You can enlist one or two helpers to keep the shirts moving for you while you concentrate on painting. Just don't let the shirts move around on the boards much. LadyStorm's idea of the color printer transfer paper would be a quick way to make this happen. Some of these work better than others - I've seen pretty good results and some that look like it has already had 100 washes - it was so faded. See if Kinkos can create them for you. Then it will still take a while to iron each shirt.
  12. The tower looks great. Even better would be to sell copies of the mold. That is really going about it from scratch. Hirst stuff goes in 1" squares.
  13. Using a stencil? Is the stencil sprayed with repositionable adhesive? Don't spray into the edge of the stencil, spay across the edge to the shirt. The rest of the shirt should be sprayed pointed straight into the shirt. What paints are you using? I recommend Createx. Generally, I use it straight out of the bottle, but some of the metalics need a bit of thinning. Use airbrush medium (you can use it later in your magic wash.) to thin. Use water in a pinch. air should be at about 40-60 psi. Put a piece of cardboard under (inside) the shirt so the paint does not go through the back side, but it should blow through the painted layer onto the cardboard. guns. This is not a place for finicky Custom Microns or Turbos. This is a place for Vegas or Eclipses. After you are done, heat set the shirt, use an iron on cotton (or cotton/blend). Use an old cup-towel on the shirt and iron. Let the iron set for 30 seconds, then move one iron width up. Repeat until the whole design is pressed. Peel the cardboard out of the inside. A trick to help remove the fuzzies from a new shirt is to spray it lightly with airbrush medium and press it. Lays all the fuzzies down and gives you a smoother surface to work on. And with about 20 to do, have you priced silkscreen shops?
  14. let me add a bit to the mix if I may. Longspike = L Knight = K Skellie = S L(S1) K(S2) S S 3 4 Melee: 3 Skellies swing on Knight = +2 for assist each. 1 Skellie swings on Longspike = straight up. (no problem so far) Defensive Strikes: Knight has trencher - knight gets +1 against S2 for reach from Longspear and gets +1 assist from longspear? or just gets +1 (trencher) againsts S3 or S4 Longspear gets +1 for assist against S1 or S2
  15. here This is one of the "magnetic trees on 6" base" that I did for the Works of Heart auction. I did the bases separate from the trees, but after looking at the end result, I should have left simple voids in the base for the trees to set in. Any other comments to help the next batch?
  16. Patrick, I just got a pack from an ebay store. Bit pricey but he had some. seller = historylives
  17. another option is to paint the area white - let dry - then airbrush the base color (light blue?) through the lace. Kinda painting in reverse. But that is how we used to lace up helmates and racing stripes.
  18. I took a bunch of plastic knitting rings (1/2" or so) and painted them various colors: yellow = shaken red = damage blue = flying gray = stunned. cheap, anything else can be added. now I need some more painted brown for burrowing.
  19. Satin (and silk) are shiney fabrics and can be treated similar to metalics. They need harder and higher highlights than other materials. Another idea that looks good IRL, but does not carry well in photo is to use the Pro-Paints Silks paints. I am not sure, but they seem to have some pearlessense in them.
  20. The flesh areas could use a bit more definition. I see the muscle cuts, but the shadowing is not there yet. Horns could stand to be a shade lighter. They are very close to the color of the fur. A bit of difference would help them stand out. Overall, I like it.
  21. Got to Michaels or Wally World and get some silk flowers. I found that silk ferns make good palms - either ground type palms or large palm trees with a bit more work. Large bladed plants can be used with a bit of surgery. Cut the large leaves across and makes them look more like palm type fronds. Small ivy is the hardest part. And that stuff takes over everything. Only good stuff I know for that is Hudson & Allen brass ivy. But I have seen some work done with green hot melt glue and bits of silk flower leaves.
  22. Paint Aid went over $3000 today. Wheeee.
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