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Everything posted by Bionicspacejelly

  1. So, I have an Iwata revolution cr, the kind that has the nozzle that screws in place on the body. Well the threading broke off INSIDE the airbrush body. I need to get the nozzle threading out without damaging the body itself. Any ideas?
  2. Probably my Secret Weapon Heavy Body Black. I've been using soft body black which is just a less concentrated version of it because I didn't want to accidentally overdo it on the wash.
  3. a better lighting rig for photos is on my wishlist hehe. I'm going to try some deep red violets in the shadows and then probably do another black wash to try and blend everything a bit more. I'll post some more pics later. Thank you for the suggestions.
  4. I started working on Ebonwrath and I've been trying to improve my blacks. Here's my latest attempt. The main colors used to highlight were P3 Cryx Bane Base, P3 Thornwood Green, and P3 Cryx Bane Highlight, as well as using a soft black wash to keep it as black and not like, brownish green. I used a lot of lighting to try and show off what I did because the highlights are pretty dark and subtle (really wish I had a better lighting setup. One day.) My biggest question is does it "read" as black?
  5. Honestly my original plan was to go for a more traditional bone color instead of the yellow but when I blocked in the color it just worked really well so I decided to keep more of it. I've been trying to work more on letting the main color of the model determine the accents and not just go "okay bones will be white and leather bits will be brown" and so on.
  6. Thanks. I'm not exactly sure what you're asking about the trasition? I went for kind of a "freshly dead" look for Nethy. I used a soft red/purple wash to try and blend the bones into the innards a bit, but I really wanted them to contrast quite a bit.
  7. Here he is all finished up. I've thought about doing a bit more to the base but I want the piece to mostly be about Nethy ya know. Comments and critiques are much appreciated.
  8. Honestly I couldn't find anything locally that wasn't grossly overpriced, and I have a prime account to I just got the TC910 with free shipping (which is nice for a 30lb package lol.) I wouldn't buy it again just because it's the same generic compressor and tank that Master sells except it has a case covering it, but this makes it really difficult to get to the PSI control and see the PSI, so I took it off. The only other compressor I've used is a little Iwata one that tops out at 18 psi and doesn't have any gauge or anything. It was not fun to work with. I like the TC910 so far, it's quiet enough that I can't hear it in other rooms in my apartment, and the tank helps to make sure it's not running constantly.
  9. Mantic Sells their Deadzone terrain in different sizes. Their scenery upgrade pack is pretty inexpensive. It's nice terrain too, it's modular and the sections are each 2" squares.
  10. The problem with Hard Plastic is I believe the costs can be really bad unless you're doing a huge amount of sales. That's why you see most game companies going with Resin or Resin-plastic mixes. I'm not really sure Reaper would be able to sell enough bits to justify hard plastic.
  11. I second testing beforehand to see what a certain wash will do. I also reccomend sticking to premade washes and inks for consistency. If you're going to do a complete wash over a painted area I would start thin, it's super easy to add more wash but pretty tricky to remove excess wash.
  12. I hate painting yellow so much... I'm trying to get his bones and horns and what not completely done to a level I'm happy with before finishing the innards (since there's some places especially on the tail and wings where its hard to tell what is supposed to be bone and what's supposed to be guts. Friggen undead dragons man..) I'm probably going to give all the yellow parts another wash with purple. and I still have a ways to go in building highlights.
  13. Some more progress. Figured I'd try out the Reaper MSP HD Gilded yellow for the base of the bones and horns and stuff. It's.. alright. I thinned it down so it's not covering as cleanly, but I'll clean it up as I go. I'm kinda bouncing around on what I'm working on. I still have some innards to clean up. Also I think for the parts on the wings I'll just have bones showing through instead of guts. I'm not sure yet what I want to do with the scales and wings so I'm leaving that alone for now.
  14. I wonder if my choice of cleaner isn't working out. I'll test that out..
  15. I'm still trying to get the right ratio with the renegade. I often end up thinning them too much and the paint is too runny when it leaves the brush. There's a few spots on Nethy that I had to fix because of that very problem. The other thing I've noticed with the krome is that paint seems to get backed up in the lip inside the resevoir. That seems to be the worst culprit when it comes to clogging up the nozzle. No matter how thoroughly I clean it I still miss some paint there and it just stops up the whole thing :/
  16. This is probably as far as I'm getting today since I need to head to work soon.
  17. I'm using a TC910 compressor and going back and forth between a Badger Renegade Krome and an Iwata Revolution HP CR. I'm... not really happy with the Krome because it clogs often, but that might be because I'm not doing a good enough job cleaning it. I also would have gone iwth a cheaper compressor rather than the one I got (Master sells basically the same compressor for half the cost without the outer shell that the TC910 has, but I ended up taking that off anyway.. oh well.) I got some airbrush specific paints (minitaire line) they're okay... but I end up thinning them down anyway. I use liquitex airbrush medium to thin down anything that I airbrush. All told I've probably spent $3-400 on the whole set up but that was over the course of several months. The iwata is actually my sister's airbrush she used for makeup and I borrowed it long before I bought any airbrush stuff so I could just get a feel for it. I heard good things about the renegade Krome but I'm just not having any luck with it at all.
  18. Brought some of the highlights back. Did a bit more work on the base. I /think/ I'm done with the majority of the airbrush work on Nethy and the rest will be done with brush. I'm gonna use red-violet and build up to pink for the rotten parts of him and probably use a yellow base for the bones. It should give him a very striking look that stands out against the neutral brown-red of the base. We'll see.
  19. So This is all airbrushed at the moment. I did some preliminary shading and highlighting and I'm using ghost tints to bring it closer to the color that I want Then I'll bring some more highlights out (and kill the gloss with a dullcoat) I'm hoping to eventually go with something that has a bright blue look but definitely looks old and rotten too. If that makes sense. I also did some highlighting to the rock that Nethy perches on.
  20. Yep, that's exactly what they are. I just crush them in a bowl and store the excess in a small jar.
  21. Bit more work on the base, and I've got Nethy preshaded.
  22. Another option to consider for dry pigments is getting a set of Conte Crayons and crushing them up. The benefit is they're a bit cheaper and you get a whoooole wide range of colors that most weathering pigments never come in.
  23. Just starting on him today. So far I've just done airbrushing and a few preliminary washes on the base. I'm planning on adding more detail to the base and creating some realistic water puddles to give it a more murky look. The base is a resin Corpse Field base from Secret Weapon that I converted to hold Nethy's bluff.
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