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About Highlander

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  • Birthday January 8

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  • Location
    New Mexico
  • Interests
    Plastic Models

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  1. Highlander

    ReaperCon: Reaper U Class Schedule

    Understand the caution about change. Any guesstimate as to when class registration might begin?
  2. Now somebody tells me. Not that Bones uses a memory plastic. But that it cannot be unmemorized. I have experience in shaping harder plastic with the boiling water and reshaping technique. It works pretty well. But my attempts with Bones was completely ineffectual. Which is why I gave up on Bones. Now I understand why resculpting Bone is such a persistent topic.
  3. Highlander

    ReaperCon 2019 tickets

    Once again, I'll be up in the mountains of Colorado the first week of June. So, I'll have to monitor the situation and try to be somewhere where I can get access to register. HST, each time I've been in this situation, actual class registration didn't happen until a couple of weeks after I returned.
  4. Highlander

    ReaperCon 2019 tickets

    April is but a wee week or two away.
  5. Highlander

    ReaperCon 2019 -- Classes I Would Take

    Good idea!
  6. Highlander

    3D Terrain Boards

    You sure you're not building a model of the Grand Canyon?
  7. Highlander

    Here There Be Dragons - Enamel Pins

    A "few"? What is a "few". Oh, that's a synonym for "all".
  8. Highlander

    Women in Horror 2019 : Gemma Files (Hasslefree)

    Yes. Yes, it does. Even more sucky is when you strip the mold line down to the bare metal and correct it. And the find another one. Or worse, realize you only got part of the mold line.
  9. I had washed the mini before I applied the primer, so it wasn't grease that was inhibiting the bond. Thanks for the definition of smoothing from the top. I'll definitely try it. The small remaining mold (didn't realize I was using a British spelling) line is in the middle of some detail, so I may just skip it. Or I may try to use a fine synthetic and see if I can fill the line. Learned that the hard way. Primer with water eventually worked; primer with additives didn't. Pre-ink? As in applying a wash to fill the darker recesses? I've never used plastic putty. Is it sandable? And controllable ... as in it doesn't string out? Never thought of an engraving pen; does it really dig in or can it be controlled to just take off fine layers? All interesting ideas.
  10. I use synthetic brushes from Hobby Lobby for priming and basecoating. I can get a bag of about a dozen for about $7 and then take the 40% coupon discount. They have green handles and golden-orange bristles and are about a 2 or 2+. I was introduced to them a couple of years at Reapercon.
  11. Well, that was an experience. I added my usual witch's brew of a mixture of flow-aid, water, and extender to the primer. In a proportion of 1:1. The primer did not like it...it seemed to begin breaking down immediately. So, I went to primer mixed with water at about 2:1 ratio. It did not break down. The bare metal on the mini did not like the primer. It took me about four thin coats before it began to bite into the metal and another four before I got enough coverage to decide to apply the base coat. At this point, I have laid on my first base coat with a 1:1 mix of witch's brew to paint. The blending has gone very well. BTW, I use a hair dryer extensively so I can proceed with painting and not have to wait for 10-15 minutes for a previous coat to completely dry. You may have guessed that I really thin my paint and apply many coats ... I find that it gives me better control, helps blending, and I avoid filling detail. It also requires patience, something I'm short of ... it is a sort of Zen approach to not rushing things. However, I've discovered one very short and pretty indistinct remnant of a mould line. Do I wanna go through this again? Tomorrow will give me time to reflect. I now remember that I've been told that before, but I had forgotten it. Do you cover a big swath of the mini or just work around the mould line? And what do you mean by "smoothing it from the top"?
  12. Highlander

    Zest-it Brush Cleaner

    Yup. I leave soap on the brush and then clean it off before I use it again to paint.
  13. I managed to get a figure prepped and primed and, discovering no mould lines, laid down my base coat. Of course, I then found some pretty well hidden, up to then, mould lines. The light may have been bad, or my eyes tired, but it is what is was. I've now just attacked the figure and filed and sanded and smoothed out the mould lines ... trying to feather the edges of the paints left on the figure. I fervently hope I got them. I plan to brush on some white primer, in a couple of thin coats and try to smooth the paint into the surrounding paint. Then I plan to try the same as I rebase -- thin coats, smoothing around. I've never use Reaper Brush-On White Primer before. Anybody have any experience/advice?
  14. Highlander

    New Paint Makes Local Man Very Happy!

    I love the smell of fresh paint in the morning.