Jump to content

Painting Dog

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Painting Dog

  1. You are absolutely NOT the only person who prefers anatomically "realistic" dragons! The beauty of Julie Guthrie's dragons has always been her ability to include the little touches of musculature and anatomy that make you believe this thing could really exist somewhere. (I don't mean to imply that Julie is the only one who sculpts beautiful dragons, but I do tend to like her sculpts quite a lot.) Like you, I see "partial" wing structure on a creature and I think, "Oh no! Poor baby! Get him to a rehabber!!"
  2. This is blasphemy! One does not get "bored" of dragons, sir! 😉
  3. LOL! The bane of being a biologist when playing with fantasy! Don't get me started on the environmental biology of zombies... 😄 Sanjay, I almost said, "The giant holds back the invaders as the Canada Geese make their escape!" 🙂
  4. This ^^ 🙂 Part of what jams me up is the impulse to paint everything to display quality. I'm trying to learn to be content with an awesome tabletop quality paint job where appropriate. Those kobold are gonna be on the table for 30 minutes, then go back into monster storage. It doesn't make sense that I spend as many hours on them as I do a PC. Since I'm the only one in the group who paints, though, I know that each session will involve the players going "Ooo!" and picking up the minis for a quick look (because they all believe painting tiny things is black magic, and are fascinated when first confronted with new ones). So I want them to look decent on a quick "close" inspection, but they don't all need to be Reaper Master Series Open ready. I think the players are just impressed that I can stay "inside the lines." LOL!
  5. I have Teflon tape on all the threaded connections on the airhose (hose-to-compressor and hose-to-airbrush). Helps a lot with air leaks. Although I haven't had problems with air leaking up by the tip assembly on my Badger Patriot, it's a persistent problem for me with my Vex airbrush. It seems like I have to seat the nozzle hood (sorry, can dredge up the technical name) just perfectly when screwing things back together. Haven't tried Teflon tape on that bit, but maybe I should. As far as cleaning: I tend to rinse / run cleaner through between each color, and sometimes pull out the needle and wipe it between each color. That may be a little obsessive, but it does seem to help me not have to do a complete teardown during any individual painting session.
  6. I recently had this same question, as my players just chose their minis and a couple have requested weapon / shield swaps. I was able to find a number of sellers on Etsy offering a variety of weapons and other bits, usually in resin. There are some talented digital sculptors on Etsy! So that's somewhere worth checking out, especially if you're looking for something a little out of the ordinary.
  7. The luminous OSL is really effective! Well done!
  8. I'll add my voice to the "It Seems to be Personal Preference" crowd. I tried SO HARD to like W&N. But I never had one that didn't start to "scorpion tail" after just a couple uses. I come and go with Davinci -- sometimes it seems like the larger 1 or 2 works well for me, sometimes it seems like I can't keep a point no matter what I do. In the end, I've been really happy with my Rosemary & Co brushes, and they tend to be my go-to "good" brushes. I know, it's frustrating to not be able to just learn, "This is a good brush for everyone!" And I honestly have no idea why different people have such different experiences. It feels like a well-constructes brush just ought to work the same for everyone! But it doesn't. The goods news is that this means there likely IS some brush brand out there that will suit you. But, yeah, even I wish there was a way to find out what brand that is rather than through random testing. :)
  9. At least for the thin leg part of the pin, try holding the pin in a pliers and heating it up (over a candle, or a burner if you have a gas stove), then just pushing the hot pin into the leg. It'll make its own hole, then seal itself in when it cools, so you don't have to try and drill such a tiny piece.
  10. Could be cool to have him as an old, battle-scarred veteran. He hates him some adventurers, and is eternally in search of the one who took his leg! Argh!
  11. Wow. Didn't realize that purging was so rare! I'm also an intermittent purger. I tend to do the same as you -- hang onto / collect things that just seem too potentially useful to pitch. Then, every now and then, I look around and get frustrated by the lack or organization / space, and go through and purge. (I do this with stuff besides painting supplies -- just seems to be how I work.) Perhaps more in the spirit of pruning rather than purging: I have backed all five Bones Kickstarters. That's a lot of minis! A while ago I got a bunch of storage boxes and sorted all my Bones into labeled bins -- "Good Guys," "Bad Guys," "Animals," "Terrain," etc. Within each bin, things are further sorted into ziploc bags -- "Evil Magic Users," "Female Fighters," etc. (My friend made fun of me because, as a biologist, I have the animals divided into bags of like "Ungulates," "Crocodilians," "Canids (including Demonic Hounds.") When I did this, I looked at each mini and honestly assessed whether a given mini was something I was actually at all interested in painting. That led to a smallish box of cast-offs (which anyone is welcome to claim, if they want). This still left me with a lot of boxes. So my personal rule is that, whenever a Bones Kickstarter delivers, I have to discard enough minis (old or new) to maintain the same number of boxes. This has generally meant culling older, softer Bones for the nicer grey models as they come in. It has kept my painting loft from getting overrun by kobolds and ogres, however.
  12. I've only ever washed Bones with warm water and whatever dish soap happened to be on hand, using a toothbrush to make sure I get in all the books and crannies. That's always worked fine.
  13. That was what I tried first. It helped, but everything went back to slightly wobbly after a few hours. Better, but still wobbly. Thanks, everybody, for the advice on dollar store / hobby store sourcing. What would you use for sealing? Lacquer? Or is something like Stynelerez primer enough? Thanks again!
  14. So I'm finally sitting down to attack the Dragons Don't Share diorama from a certain Kickstarter way-back-when. Like everyone before me, I'm finding that the terrain pieces won't stay flat, no matter what amount of boiling / freezing I do with them. I don't want to get too fancy with creating a "subfloor" for the pieces, but thought that affixing them to hobby plywood ought to keep them level. Does anybody have experience with what thickness of plywood would work for this kind of basing? I feel like 1/8" in too thin, but have never actually used it in this way, so don't know for sure. I'm hoping to get a best guess on what thickness to buy before venturing forth from my Vault home into the Wasteland home improvement store (so I can get the right size first time, and not have to go out again). In the same vein -- Has anybody tried anything other than wood and had good success? Thanks, everybody! And stay safe!
  15. MojoBob, that woodgrain looks GREAT! Thanks!
  16. Maybe said halfling lady doesn't subscribe to the silly human prejudice against perfectly natural adult body hair? Especially a druid! When you occasionally cover your entire body in a luxurious pelt of fur, why would you feel compelled to shave parts of your body at any other time? That said, depending on the length of said pedal hair, if I were a halfling woman I'd be more concerned about my foot hair getting stuck in my nail polish. Now THAT is unsightly!
  17. I always used a T-pin, which worked well. But the Official Reaper Pokey Tool is cool, and more fun! :)
  18. Just peeking in. Scriblette, if you check back, I was serious about wanting to know what sorts of birds you live with.
  19. Greetings, Scribblette! You've already been given a lot of great information / advice. Just thought I'd add that non-toxic water based paints are frequently used to put temporary identification marks on wild birds, with no ill effects. Also, if the birds aren't actually chewing on the dry paint, I think there's little chance of them ingesting any of it by licking. Now I'm going to "demand" to know what kind of birds you have! Not lorikeets, obviously, despite the "brush-tongued" reference, because they chew EVERYTHING! Surely not honey-eaters?? I'd worry about them damaging plastic minis with their feet! Enquiring aviculturists want to know!!
  20. I'm definitely planning to take this class! I really love what you've done.
  21. I use Stynlrez primers in the airbrush with no problems.
  22. I haven't been painting as long as some (maybe 8 or 10 years), but I have never really like W&N brushes. From the beginning, I've always had the splitting problem, and found it very frustrating. Maybe it's something with the way I use / clean them, I don't know. But I switched over to using Rosemary & Co. a few years ago, and they've been beautiful for me. So I'm sticking with what works. :)
  • Create New...