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Painting Dog

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Everything posted by Painting Dog

  1. I swear, I don't remember having this problem in the past. But for the last six months or so, I've been unable to reliably glue things with CA glue. I'm most frustrated by not being able to affix minis to bases (although I've had trouble with things like arms and weapons, too). Even with pins in the feet, the mini either doesn't stick to the surface of the base, comes off the pins, pins come out of base. It doesn't seem to matter if the base is plastic or metal, painted or bare. (Although, thinking about it, I think I've had this problem primarily with metal minis, FWIW.) Things I have tried: Tiny bits of glue Bigger bits of glue Letting glue dry a smidge and get tacky before putting pieces together Adding a little baking soda Letting pins in the feet dry overnight (or longer), then trying to attach mini to base. Corollary to above: Leave the pinned mini to dry on the base overnight (or longer) Longer pins No pins Buying more "gel-like" glue Buying new Bones CA glue Buying ANOTHER new Bones CA glue Using many broccoli-like words and scaring my dogs Even when it seems like I've got a good attachment, the slightest bit of manipulation (for touch-up or varnishing) is half-likely to disconnect mini from base. Even just falling onto its side on my painting desk -- not from a height, just from standing to on its side -- can be enough. Have I passed over into a parallel universe where I suddenly don't understand superglue anymore??
  2. Just beautiful! You're inspiring me to finally get brave enough to face down the big girl.
  3. I'd love to participate! Pittsburgh, PA. Could do international if necessary, or (as someone said above) toss in a couple bucks for a box that needs to international eventually.
  4. Thanks, @MojoBob! I was pretty sure I was ok, but this is the first Bones I've stripped, so was second-guessing.
  5. I'm pretty sure I already know the answer, but it never hurts to get confirmation. . When stripping paint from a mini (in this case a Bones that I completely screwed up the paint job on), is it necessary to get every molecule of paint off? Or is it okay if there's some bits left in some of the crenalations and under bits? Thanks!
  6. Thanks, @Gadgetman!. I've been using Liquetex airbrush thinner so far, which seems to work well. If getting in a little closer doesn't solve the issue, I'll give the Vallejo a try.
  7. Thanks, @cmorse. I'll try again without being so far away.
  8. I picked up a Badger Patriot airbrush at the last ReaperCon, mostly with the thought of how it would help when priming / basecoating the big Bones models. While I've done quite a bit of successful priming with it (big and small), I got brave today and tried out basecoating my first big piece. Bleh. I ended up with a very grainy surface, unlike in my previous efforts, and am now looking at Simple Greening the whole model to start over. I know it must have something to do with the thinness of the paint, or my distance from the model, or something -- I just have no clue what it is I did wrong. Help?
  9. So far, hotel prices aren't scaring me too much. Between needing to get from/to the airport and needing to get to the con site (without having to rely on someone else), I opted for a rental car last year. Just not having to do that is worth putting some of that $$ toward the hotel. (Plus everything already mentioned by @buglips*the*goblin and @Cranky Dog.)
  10. @K2h2m3, that's interesting about the automotive primer. I thought it looked like primer -- and it's certainly resistant to removal! Which is good, I guess -- the figs may have been better protected through the years than I thought. I'll report in again after some Brasso and priming!
  11. Thanks again, @buglips*the*goblin. I'm 99.9% positive these are lead. There were already some bent parts, which bent back very easily, with no crackle. And they're pretty heavy for their size. Also, just so I'm sure I totally understand: You think it would be OK to prime these minis without trying to get all the darker smudge off them, as long as the details are good?
  12. Is there a significant difference between Brasso and generic silver polish?
  13. Thanks, @buglips*the*goblin -- that's all really encouraging. :) I shall get some Brasso and see how it goes. The date on the bottoms of all of these is 1983. Is that from the lead-free era? Or are we still talking all lead? Thanks again!
  14. I still have the comics -- and the color volumes -- packed away in my attic. :) Planning to have a lot of fun matching up colors, etc. :)
  15. So these are the old miniatures in question. I was a big Elfquest fan back in the day. :) I didn't even know these miniatures existed until I saw someone with a box at ReaperCon, at which point I knew I had to track some down. I got two separate sets off eBay. One came with the miniatures already painted: (These have already benefited from a long soak in Simple Green.) The other set came all unpainted: The Simple Green did a great job of loosening up the old paint, and a good scrub with a stiff-bristled brush did most of the rest. I still have some work to do with toothpicks / files to get some of the more stubborn bits off, but I'm generally pleased with how well they cleaned up. All of the minis which were already painted cleaned up to be pretty bright and shiny; they actually look way too dark in the photo above. Probably from the light in which I shot them. My concerns are more with the unpainted ones. This is a selection of cleaned-up painted minis with some of the never-painted ones: The never-painted set (represented here by Cutter and Dewshine) are all this kind of dusty dark grey. Where you can see a little bit of shine on Dewshine's base is where I buffed it up a little with a diamond file. I soaked the never-painted minis in the same Simple Green as the painted ones, to see if the grey was primer, or if just in general that would help clean them up. For whatever reason, this allowed me to get the wolves from the never-painted set to a pretty nice place: But all the elf figures in the set remained resolutely grey, even after much scrubbing: I'm thinking this is a patina of lead rot. There's no flaking or bubbling, and nothing appears to be crumbling anywhere on the minis. However, I feel like I should get this all cleaned off before priming everybody for protection. I've read various conflicting advice on the Internet about how to go about cleaning up this kind of relatively-light patina. I trust the folks here more than random pages on the Internet, so I'm appealing to folks like @buglips*the*goblin (and anyone else with experience with lead minis). Is this lead rot? Is there something I can do to remove it besides attacking the figures with a file (not something I'm willing to do)? All advice / suggestions very welcome. Thanks!
  16. What about paint removal? Some of these are already painted -- I think with acrylics (they aren't glossy), but I'm really not sure. Is the usual Simple Green soak still appropriate?
  17. @Pingo, I suspected something of the sort. Either that, or a chemistry degree.
  18. Thanks, guys. (Just curious -- @Pingo, do you know everything? ). I love having access to such a font of information. I wasn't worried about toxicity issues, or anything like that. Wasn't planning to lick the figures, and as @Pingo said, using nitrile gloves is never a bad idea. I was mostly unsure about things like whether toothbrush + dish soap was still OK for cleaning, or whether I needed to do something special as far as priming prep and storage. I really appreciate your suggestion about priming the base and avoiding the foam, @Doug Sundseth -- those are two things I didn't even consider! Thanks, guys!
  19. I have recently come into some very old (late-1980's) Ral Partha lead miniatures that I'm very excited to work on. The only problem: I have never, ever painted lead figures before. Would anyone be able to point me toward a resource with information about how to clean (soap and water?) and protect (against lead rot?) minis like these? Thanks in advance for sharing the wisdom.
  20. Ohhhhhhh! For some reason, I had always translated "thin coat" to just mean "only have a little on your brush." Do you think it would be use as effective diluted with matte medium? I only use the gloss varnish for the protection factor, then finish off with Dullcote, so I don't really care if the varnish is actually shiny.
  21. Those are great, @Pingo! Especially the lighter face on the dark one. Thanks! This is helpful. :)
  22. Do folks routinely thin Liquitex Gloss Varnish? I've always used it straight out of the bottle.
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