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Painting Dog

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Posts posted by Painting Dog

  1. I got to put in a few hours on my sandworm today, although I'm not sure that's obvious from the results.  :wacko:  The only part of the worm I worked on was the very front rill.  Before this, the only big things I've worked on have been some of the previous Bones dragons -- and I've never been 100% happy with the results.  I don't have a very good track record of getting big pieces to look the way I see them in my head.  So I'm leery of just attacking the whole huge piece until I'm at least a little sure about what I'm doing (and how).

     

    So I did a few layers of building up some highlights using a mixture of the Ruddy Leather base with progressively more Griffon Tan, aiming for eventually getting a final highlight of pure Griffon Tan.  I tried to leave the recesses alone so the Ruddy Leather was still visible.

     

    59b5e31376103_FirstHighlight.jpg.0cc5ecd45fef1e8703622722e5ef2105.jpg

     

    Still, by the time I got to where I wanted, I felt like I'd lost the dark areas.  So I hit everything with a brown ink wash to try and intensify the recesses.

    59b5e31f9a998_BrownInk.jpg.ce54fcba63787e273e506dec0516aa9f.jpg

     

    That, of course, dulled down the highlighting!  Which I wasn't confident was enough anyway.  So I put a smaller, brighter, more careful layer of Griffon Tan over the high points.

     

    59b5e324422f3_FinalHighlight.jpg.33215bf10ee6698c650242d907a67483.jpg

     

    I'm actually a little annoyed, because it looks better in the photo than it does in real life!  I don't think I was very successful with blending.  In addition, the lighter parts are very chalky, and I can't seem to knock that back.  Don't know if that's a function of the lighter Griffon Tan, or the way I'm mixing up the paint, but even the ink wash didn't help much with the chalkiness.

     

    In either case, I feel like this is a place where I often fall down.  I'm timid about punching up contrast -- but whenever I try to be brave and go for more contrast / brighter highlights / darker shadows, I don't seem to be able to find the happy middle ground between dull / muddy and a model that looks like somebody painted blotches of lighter color all over it.  ::(:

     

    Don't mean to whine, but I'm feeling very frustrated with today's work.  Thanks for listening.

     

    • Like 14
  2. 3 hours ago, Cranky Dog said:

    I'm already liking the subtle stripes on the mini-worm.

     

    Thanks, fellow canid!  That was actually a "happy accident" while experimenting with the colors -- I'm going to try for that kind of striation on the big guy, but more following the existing ridges. 

    • Like 2
  3. Since this will be my very first ReaperCon, I thought I'd memorialize the occasion with my first Work In Progress post!  My hope is to have this finished in time to bring it to ReaperCon with me, but I'm sufficiently inexperienced that I'm not sure if that's realistic.  Still, I find all the encouragement and insight you guys offer really inspiring -- so I'm being brave!

     

    59b34dd5abd42_GreyLiner.thumb.jpg.deb6c0883425d11a2a1975f7710b8f16.jpg

     

    The plan is to transform Goremaw into an Arakis sandworm, complete with little Fremen rider.  Haven't decided yet how I'm going to do the riding hooks.  I'll jump that worm when I come to it.  :lol:

     

    Basecoat.thumb.jpg.7d4c47e7109e467bcaa8735cf9a6d42c.jpg

     

    Started with a basecoat of Reaper MSP Ruddy Leather over good ol' Brown Liner.  Teeth and spines are MSP Creamy Ivory.  I've got some other browns lined up for highlighting, with something lighter and more sand-colored for the belly.  I'm hoping to incorporate some orangey tones (maybe as a wash over the brown?).  Nothing stark, just something to tie in to the orange-colored spice that the sandworms are associated with.

     

    I'm admittedly very intimidated by this whole project!  I don't think I have a very good ability to do interesting things with colors, so am a little worried that I'm just going to end up with something that looks like a stale Tootsie Roll.  In an effort to avoid that, I've been using this little guy as a mini-me sandworm to experiment on before putting colors on the big model.

     

    59b34fcbcbf1a_LittleBuddy.jpg.55a88fe60e509e0166b69af95ef5fcb4.jpg

     

    Rawr.jpg.5337e240f1646e0b78a92e5dbbc32e30.jpg

    Rawr!

    Comments and critiques always welcome.  Shai Hulud!

    • Like 19
  4. 4 hours ago, Darcstaar said:

    I was in on the Stones KS.  They are solid tiles with impressive texture.

    The material is the same PVC as Bones.  They are rigid, and came as a dark black-grey color.  They are 2x2 inches square, with different "floor" texture on each side.  They are light.

     

    Remember, for many participants, this is their first gaming kickstarter.  Just over a buck per tile is a good deal.  It can bring in new participants, and will appeal to many other participants who will up their pledges by $49 dollars if they see the value of it.

     

    I was also in on the Stones KS, and I really, really like the tiles. Good weight to them without being bulky, and they paint up well. My players really enjoy having lots of props and terrain, and I like making the stuff -- especially fun when you have an appreciative audience. :) So I'm all in for these!  The fact that they can also be used as scenic bases is just a bonus!  :D

    • Like 6
  5. Just wondering if someone more familiar with how ReaperCon works knew the answer to this:  I was checking on the ReaperCon website to see about adding some more classes (I'd already signed up for 4 or 5).  When I looked at my itinerary on the site, however, there are no classes listed -- just the meals and such.  Are the classes normally there?  If so, does anybody have any idea as to why they might have disappeared?

    • Like 1
  6. As the title suggests, this will be my first trip to ReaperCon!  Very excited.  ::D:

     

    While I've traveled plenty in my **cough cough** years of life, I've never traveled with minis, paints, and supplies.  So some things occur to me:

     

    1. What's the best way to transport paint, given TSA restrictions on liquids?  I'm assuming I'll have to pack things into my checked baggage.  But then doesn't temperature / pressure in the cargo hold become an issue?
    2. Is there an ideal way to pack up paints for travel?  Conversely, is there a an absolutely HORRIBLE way to do so?  My current plan is to bring just a few colors, plus some of the townsfolk for light, easy painting when / if I get the chance.  (I'm planning to feel inspired.)  It seems like using the Reaper paint travel case would work well, since I could use holes not being taken up by paint bottles to hold little people.  (Most of these are Bones, so I'm not worried about breakage.)
    3. It is not lost on me that the black Reaper paint travel case could be mistaken for a handgun case.  So pack that into checked baggage, too?
    4. Is there something really obvious I'm not thinking of??

     

    Thanks, oh, great and generous group mind!

    • Like 1
  7. 23 hours ago, terminalmancer said:

    Oh, hey, you're even in Pittsburgh with us! We just got a nonstop SWA flight from Pittsburgh International to Love field a couple of years ago. Both my wife and I recommend it as an option. No harm in flying another way, but we like it better than the United-with-layover approach.

     

    Hey, fellow yinzer!  :)  I guess I knew I couldn't be the only mini painter in SW PA, but it feels like it sometimes.  :)

     

    Thanks for the tip.  So far, I've just looked at flights going to DFW, but am glad to know there might be another option.

     

    You guys all rock, BTW.

    • Like 1
  8. Does it make me a complete dork that I never considered that Bones would float?  :P

     

    Re: MOAR POWER.  I'm not really planning to do any sort of mass boiling -- like everybody else, I've been using the microwave and a pyrex dish up to now.  But now that I've got both Tianot and Dragons Don't Share, I thought I might need a bigger boat pot...

  9. I finally broke down and got an old pot from the thrift store to use as a dedicated Bones boiling pot. 

     

    I don't want the models to lay on the bottom -- or touch the sides, really -- for fear of unwanted melting.  How do people address that?  I'm thinking about using a screen colander suspended inside the pot, but am not sure if that will have the same issues as the hot metal sides. 

     

    Thoughts?

    • Like 1
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