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Painting Dog

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  1. Thanks, guys. (Just curious -- @Pingo, do you know everything? :lol:). I love having access to such a font of information. 


    I wasn't worried about toxicity issues, or anything like that. Wasn't planning to lick the figures, and as @Pingo said, using nitrile gloves is never a bad idea. I was mostly unsure about things like whether toothbrush + dish soap was still OK for cleaning, or whether I needed to do something special as far as priming prep and storage. I really appreciate your suggestion about priming the base and avoiding the foam, @Doug Sundseth -- those are two things I didn't even consider!


    Thanks, guys!

    • Like 2
  2. I have recently come into some very old (late-1980's) Ral Partha lead miniatures that I'm very excited to work on.  The only problem:  I have never, ever painted lead figures before.  Would anyone be able to point me toward a resource with information about how to clean (soap and water?) and protect (against lead rot?) minis like these?


    Thanks in advance for sharing the wisdom.  ::D:

  3. 13 hours ago, Pingo said:


    It depends on the effect you are looking for. 


    Straight out of the bottle any varnish or gloss medium is going to be thick and maybe leave brushstrokes.


    Liquitex itself recommends to “Dilute Gloss Medium and Varnish up to 20% for better brushing and leveling” and “Apply Liquitex (Permanent) varnish in 1-3 thin coats, rather than 1 thick coat.” (A “thin coat” implies at least a little dilution).


    Gloss varnish does not need to be thick to protect.


    Ohhhhhhh!  For some reason, I had always translated "thin coat" to just mean "only have a little on your brush."  ::P:


    Do you think it would be use as effective diluted with matte medium?  I only use the gloss varnish for the protection factor, then finish off with Dullcote, so I don't really care if the varnish is actually shiny.

  4. On 7/3/2016 at 9:18 PM, ultrasquid said:


    Liquitex and other artists acrylic brands offer a range of brush-on varnishes with a variety of finishes. Most will have to be thinned for use on miniatures. Usually they are thinned with water, but there are some products that require mineral spirits or alcohol to thin them, and will be labeled clearly as such.


    Do folks routinely thin Liquitex Gloss Varnish?  I've always used it straight out of the bottle. :wacko:

  5. Good suggestion, @Cyradis, thanks!  Does this look any better?  (I felt like it did in person, but now looking at the pictures I'm not sure.)


    Thanks again -- this helps a lot. :)



    I'm wondering -- Since this is meant for tabletop, should I maybe take pictures from more that kind of distance to judge whether there's enough contrast, as opposed to focusing so close up?

    • Like 1
  6. I'm working on a pair of minis for a friend's D&D ranger. I have the wolf pretty much done -- and I'm generally happy with him. But...the face!


    I don't feel like he has a face. The eyes don't stand out at all (I tried some brighter orange-yellow shades and ended up with something that looked like The Joker's lapdog).  The whole face seems to just moosh into the rest of the body and disappear. 


    I know this is a contrast thing -- I just have no idea how to attack it. I tried brightening highlights, I tried glazing in shadows. All I end up with is a darker or lighter version of the same problem. Anybody have any suggestions?


    Thanks, Group Mind!



    • Like 1
  7. On 10/25/2017 at 9:56 PM, Corporea said:

    Hmmn. Well I could drop hard colors


    Just my 2 cents, Corporea, but your hard colors classes were among the best classes I took this year!  I loved the handouts, and I have every one of the sample minis mounted on my painting desk for reference.  You do such a great job teaching those concepts that it would be a shame to lose that. ::):

    • Like 5
  8. On 10/24/2017 at 10:43 AM, Aryanun said:

    Also two brush blending that doesn't require bodily fluids. :zombie:


    Really, I don't lick my brush (anymore) and spitting into my palette is just gross.


    Eww.  FWIW, I took a really great TBB class from David Diamondstone this past ReaperCon, and there were no bodily fluids involved. He was really helpful and encouraging, and I left with a really good understanding of how to do TBB for the first time. 

    • Like 3
  9. On 10/21/2017 at 10:01 PM, OtterlyTrying said:

    Thank you all.  These comments were what I was looking for.  I had been concerned that there was different techniques required.


    I guess the only issue I have now is storage!  Haven't figured that one out quite yet.  Maybe we can clear out the china closet.  Hmmmm, fancy dishes from our wedding that never get used or dragons....


    Dragons. Definitely dragons. 

    • Like 2
  10. I graduated to the next level of painting obsession and picked up a Badger Patriot 105 airbrush at ReaperCon.  Yay me!


    I've already primed a handful of minis, just as part of getting a feel for the brush.  But it occurred to me -- can you use an airbrush to spray on sealers?  I usually give minis (especially ones for tabletop) a coat or two of gloss varnish, then hit them with Tester's Dullcote to take out the shine.  I was wondering if I could substitute sprayed on Reaper Brush-on Sealer for the Dullcote step.  If so, would I thin it?  Or just use it as is?


    Enquiring minds want to know!

    • Like 1
  11. Hi again, Forumites!  Welcome back from ReaperCon.  ::D:


    As some of you had the (dubious) opportunity to learn, I blew out my knee running dog agility not too terribly long after my last post on this thread.  In addition to this taking up a whole bunch of my life with doctor's appointments, MRIs, various other pre-op testing (for surgery that isn't able to happen until the day before Thanksgiving!  Argh!), and a seven-month-old border collie who I'm supposed to be exercising and training regularly, I haven't had a lot of time to focus on things like painting.  I also can't get up to the third floor of my house where my painting space resides.  :down:  My biggest fear throughout this (above and beyond the possibility of said seven-month-old chewing up every expensive thing in the house due to boredom) was that I wouldn't be able / allowed to travel to ReaperCon -- getting anything to enter in the competition was secondary.


    As it turned out, I was able to go to ReaperCon (where I gimped around very slowly).  I also turned my attention to a much less ambitious project for the MSP Open -- something I could do on the kitchen counter after sending my wife upstairs to retrieve a limited number of paints, etc.  This turned into the diorama "Golem Pillow Fight," which managed (to my great surprise) to earn a bronze medal at ReaperCon!  ::D:  So all was not completely lost.


    Anyway, since post-surgery I'm going to have a good six weeks where I'm not even allowed to walk, much less get up to the third floor, we're setting up a more semi-permanent painting area on the first floor so I can practice all the great stuff I learned at ReaperCon.  I plan to get back to this project during that time, and resume posting WIP updates then.


    TL;DR -- Didn't get Shai, Hulud! done in time for ReaperCon 2017, but will hopefully have it ready for ReaperCon 2018.  ::):


    Definition of the Day:

    Border Collie = so named because their great intelligence means they are perpetually bored-er than other collies.  ::P:

    • Like 2
  12. Home and snuggled in bed with my canine sleeping buddies, who I have missed. ::D:


    I can't begin to express what an amazing time I had at my first ReaperCon!  Didn't get to chat with as many forumites as I should have, but tried to make up for that with OneBoot and Dilvish in my last class before rushing off to catch my plane. Everybody I met was great and friendly and supportive. What an awesome crowd!


    All of the classes I took were amazing!  I learned so much from Corporea (seriously, you guys need to take all her classes!), and Aaron Lovejoy "made" me buy an airbrush. At least I have three Kickstarter worth of Bones to practice on!  :lol:


    Already making plans for next year!

    • Like 16
  13. So much painting, so few pictures.  :lol:


    One of the things I'm starting to realize about the Tootsie Roll is that it only has one good side.  Not when you're looking at it in person, but when it comes to photos.  It kind of leans over onto itself (towards the right when you're facing it head on), which means that side ends up looking shadowed and weird in a photo.  Or at least in my phone photos.  ::):  So since I haven't really done anything with the mouth yet (so no "full frontal" pictures), you're all gonna have to get sick of looking at the same basic shot over and over again.


    After whining about chalkiness in my highlights last time, I re-acquainted myself with some techniques for dealing with that (including your suggestion to go over it with a midtone glaze, @Pochi).  I'm pretty happy now with the highlights -- including the blends.




    Today, then, I spent a bunch of time just going over the entire body and blocking in highlights.  Got very tired of tracing edges and making little lines.  ::D:




    The detail of the scale striations kind of peters out toward the bottom, so I got to use the "subtle little lines" technique that I tried out on the little guy in my first post.  I think it ended up OK.


    I'm hoping to get the chance to do some more painting this weekend -- since I now have a whole buncha blending of all the edges and scales to do!  And I've got to finally decide on what I want to do with the tummy.  Do you think I can get away with basing it in the same Griffon Tan I'm using for the highlights, then highlighting up from there?


    Comments and critiques welcome, as always.  Thanks, everybody!

    • Like 9
  14. I got to put in a few hours on my sandworm today, although I'm not sure that's obvious from the results.  :wacko:  The only part of the worm I worked on was the very front rill.  Before this, the only big things I've worked on have been some of the previous Bones dragons -- and I've never been 100% happy with the results.  I don't have a very good track record of getting big pieces to look the way I see them in my head.  So I'm leery of just attacking the whole huge piece until I'm at least a little sure about what I'm doing (and how).


    So I did a few layers of building up some highlights using a mixture of the Ruddy Leather base with progressively more Griffon Tan, aiming for eventually getting a final highlight of pure Griffon Tan.  I tried to leave the recesses alone so the Ruddy Leather was still visible.




    Still, by the time I got to where I wanted, I felt like I'd lost the dark areas.  So I hit everything with a brown ink wash to try and intensify the recesses.



    That, of course, dulled down the highlighting!  Which I wasn't confident was enough anyway.  So I put a smaller, brighter, more careful layer of Griffon Tan over the high points.




    I'm actually a little annoyed, because it looks better in the photo than it does in real life!  I don't think I was very successful with blending.  In addition, the lighter parts are very chalky, and I can't seem to knock that back.  Don't know if that's a function of the lighter Griffon Tan, or the way I'm mixing up the paint, but even the ink wash didn't help much with the chalkiness.


    In either case, I feel like this is a place where I often fall down.  I'm timid about punching up contrast -- but whenever I try to be brave and go for more contrast / brighter highlights / darker shadows, I don't seem to be able to find the happy middle ground between dull / muddy and a model that looks like somebody painted blotches of lighter color all over it.  ::(:


    Don't mean to whine, but I'm feeling very frustrated with today's work.  Thanks for listening.


    • Like 14
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