Jump to content

Bold

Members
  • Content Count

    66
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

240

About Bold

  • Rank
    Rabble Rouser
  • Birthday 10/10/1972

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Plymouth, MN

Recent Profile Visitors

981 profile views
  1. Agreed. Some additives should be used very sparingly, such as surfactants (aka "flow improver") or drying retarder. Confusingly enough, some products are poorly-labeled. For example, most products labeled "flow improver" (e.g. Liquitex Flow-Aid) are just surfactants. But Vallejo's "Flow Improver" is actually a drying retarder. If you add too much to the paint, it'll cause problems. For transferring Citadel paint to dropper bottles, I'd recommend not adding anything at all at first. (Use disposable plastic funnels to make it easier.) I have seen suggestions on WH40k foru
  2. If the nozzle is getting damaged, you may be pressing too hard when you "seat" the needle. That is, when you push the needle forward and then tighten the needle chuck, don't press so hard on the needle that stretches out the opening of the nozzle--they're made of soft brass. As for clogging, try running isopropyl alcohol through your nozzle as a part of your cleaning process. It will do a great job of breaking down paint. Be careful of the tools you use to clean the nozzle, however; avoid items which will scratch it, like wire brushes. You can use soft interdental brushes on an air
  3. Reaper’s fantastic customer service has already replied to my email from last night, and they’re sending replacement parts. Awesome!
  4. Nope, the VEX parts are designed to be tightened/loosened by hand. The VEX is essentially a modified Badger Patriot 105, and both airbrushes use a compression-fit nozzle which is held in place by a head cap and spray regulator, both tightened by hand. The VEX also has a needle guard, which should be hand-tightened (but on mine is stuck). Most airbrushes by Badger and Harder & Steenbeck feature heads which have tool-less assembly; even the newer versions of the Badger Sotar now come with the nozzle head brazed to the airbrush body, eliminating the need to remove it with a wrench. Iwata airb
  5. When airbrushing with acrylic paints, "tip dry" is a common issue where paint dries on the tip of the needle. Removal of the needle guard allows access to the needle to remove dried paint without disassembling the entire head assembly. Experienced airbrushers often paint with the needle guard completely removed, allowing frequent access to the needle (the "pick" method of dealing with tip dry).
  6. I appreciate the reply! Unfortunately, this VEX is brand-new, never been used, so there's no dried paint inside. I had sprayed some distilled water through it when I first got it, but since then I've been using my other airbrushes. I did initially do a quick look-over of the VEX that first day, and noticed these two parts were stuck together. "Huh," I figured, "I would've thought these were separate parts. Maybe it's one solid piece?" When I finally looked at it again this week and checked the schematic, I discovered that they are in fact two separate parts which should come apart.
  7. The Reaper VEX has a combination of two parts for its spray regulator (RPR-0003) and needle guard (RPR-0002). On my VEX, however, these two parts are solidly stuck together--I've practically destroyed my fingers (and the plastic teeth of my soft-jaw pliers) trying to separate them. Has anyone else experienced this issue?
  8. Sounds good! Send me a message with your Discord username, and we can coordinate when we will submit our entries together this quarter.
  9. Users Jedijared, Lana, and I are doing a “Wizard’s Tower” group for Q1, if you’re interested. Jedijared is painting an Astrolabe, Lana is painting a wizard, and I’m going to do a scholar (or something; haven’t yet decided). If you (or anyone else) wants to join us, post a reply!
  10. I have a TON of Bones miniatures from past Kickstarters, and I imagine many other people do as well. Is this a good thread to see if anyone else is interested in participating in a monthly Duo or Trio to work on our backlog of minis from Bones 4? (Or Bones 3, or 2, or...) Maybe come up with a bunch of minis we'd each like to do, confirm we all have 'em, and pick one each month for the participants to paint and submit? I don't post on the forums much (and everyone's inability to find me for Forumite Bingo at ReaperCon proves my lurker status! ), so I'm not sure if this is the best p
  11. Thank you! My “birthday present” arrived today. Well, I ordered it about two months ago, but it arrived today so I’ll claim it’s a gift to myself.
  12. I dunno, I guess it was a little bold...
  13. Thank you all for the birthday wishes! I ended up DM'ing a one-off D&D Adventurer's League game on my birthday (local store had a an open table and a long waiting list of new players), as a last-minute favor to a local games organizer. I used pre-painted minis, but I'm starting to feel some guilt: lately I've been sorting through a mountain of unpainted plastic acquired during the Bones 1/2/3/4 Kickstarters, and I thought, "Y'know, I have the perfect mini for this monster... if only I had painted it. <sigh> Looks like I'll have to use a pre-painted mini instead."
  14. For ten years, I’ve been hearing the same story about W&N Series 7 brushes: “They were good up until a couple of years ago.” Again, I’ve heard that exact line... for ten years. Maybe it’s true, maybe it’s not. But the timeline does strike me as odd...
×
×
  • Create New...