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K2h2m3

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Everything posted by K2h2m3

  1. I saw the pics for this elsewhere. It didn't look all that bad but pics were not the best.
  2. Stirges! Bones 4 needs stirges!
  3. About thirty years ago when I went to a jewelers school we used beeswax on the blades to reduce friction. Do not put weight on the blade, let the weight of the saw do it and you will break a lot less blades. There are also different types of blades for cutting different materials. I've actually cut a Master lock with a jewelers saw before.
  4. Recap the bottle with a fresh clean dropper tip.
  5. I just received the Typhoon mixer I ordered from Robert on ebay. This thing is absolutely awesome! I'd like to thank everyone in this thread that had mentioned it.
  6. I think the skin looks great! As does the rest of the figures too.
  7. If you are talking about the dark gray spots that is just the lead ageing. It looks to me like these figure are free from lead rot currently. While I wouldn't call myself an expert I have dealt with about a dozen or so figures with lead rot.
  8. Music sounds similar to part of one of the soundtracks to one of the Hobbit movies. Might just be coincidence. I looked into the main comments section on the KS page and it just made me feel badly for the Reaper peeps. I know of at least one KS that is two years late and the comments section is nowhere near that bad even though the creator had pretty much not shared much info until recently.
  9. Try looking up Fenris Games operating out of England. I ordered from them several years back and they were great.
  10. I use the clear plastic containers that chessex dice come in for my old 25mm minis. It has the added bonus that I can use it to cover them when I'm not painting. For larger minis I use empty medicine bottles.
  11. I have twenty-one kolinsky sable brushes. One is a DaVinci that looks worse than yours when it is dry. It is easily my best brush. When it is wet it comes to the finest point with no strays.
  12. If anyone tries to replicate this the placement of the magnet in relation to the object to be dissolved is key.
  13. It looks like the charge on the rare earth magnet was enough to cause the reaction over time. Obviously some ingredient in the Simple Green helped to facilitate the corrosion. I know I personally will not be putting any rare earth magnets into Simple Green with my metal miniatures after seeing this. Might be safe for a week or even longer but at some point it will start breaking down the tin. NomadZeke, I wouldn't reuse that Simple Green. Also be aware that it is more than likely contaminated with tin now.
  14. I work as an electroplater and use a lot of different chemicals. I'm not surprised the magnet dissolved. What I am surprised at is that it seems you turned the miniatures into mini anodes. The magnet probably played a major role. You basically dissolved the tin into the fluid. Was there sludge in the bottom of the container? If not then the tin molecules stayed suspended in the solution. I'd be curious to know how the parts were laying in the SG.
  15. The swords really make this mini stand out.
  16. I've tried different files and sanding sticks on Bones and really wasn't satisfied with the results. I have a backgound in jewelry so I know how to use files pretty well. X-Acto knife was better but pretty dicey getting used to the correct pressure to use. The tool I was most satisfied with was a micro chisel but it is very time consuming. Takes me about an hour to clean up a man-sized figure. By comparison I can clean the mold lines of a metal figure in about five minutes with jewelers files.
  17. I'm pretty sure Mastersons paper is impregnated with acrylic. It is very similar to a paper I used in an industrial job.
  18. Hard to say. Sometimes I think it's average, other times I think I'm glacially slow. My two biggest problems are that I don't have a dedicated space and finding the time to paint.
  19. Well I can definitely tell you the one with the snake is from the AD&D line. If the other one was made before or after I don't know.
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