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Everything posted by Dosani

  1. Any brand that you can think of? I still intend to use them with Raging Heroes, i had some batches that are full of the mold release stuff, put with patience and multiple repetitions, it goes off but it takes time, maybe the ultrasonic cleaner can be handy But in your experience, even if it didnt solve the problem, was it easier to clean with a ultrasonic cleaner? I never had one so for me its new.
  2. Hi just read about your experience with a ultrasonic cleaner :) I have a lot of Raging Heroes minis, love them but some of them have this awful mold release problem. I anm considering buying a ultrasonic cleaner, any advice? Is there any chance that the cleaner will damage the figures, as they are delicate. What was your experience? Any advice for choosing a cleaner? Thanks again, and sorry for reanimating a long post from the dead , its just that i want to know more about it
  3. Hi, I am investigating about different kinds of washes, as I want to import some complete sets of washes from abroad. I need to select between citadel or Secret weapon ones , and as I can't get both atm , want to ask about pros and cons about this brands before I buy any. I know that this is a difficult question as everybody has their own experiences and preferences, but still any info is really helpful and welcome! Thanks again for the info :)
  4. So this white residue problem happens also on Vallejo washes? It happened to me with the Agrax Earthshade, maybe because i apply it with the brush which i use for painting , and its nearly always wet with water.
  5. Thanks for all the wonderful info! According to your experiences, how much time do citadel/SW/Vallejo washes have before they start to deteriorate? 2-4 years perhaps?
  6. Thanks for the info about Secret Weapon washes, by the way if you have some pictures about the SW washes i will be grateful :) I didnt see any matte medium here in my country , i will try and search for it. So in your experience the differences between SW washes and citadel are notable, i am right?
  7. Sorry for the pics quality , i took them in the night and with too much light :( I just reposted the pics with better quality. The glossy sheen its more evident when using the Agrax Earthshade or Drakenhof nightshade, some others like Athonian Camoshade are more matte. This is my 3rd Agrax bottle, i bought the first 2 from a local store, and the last one from a store from another city and all of them has this problem, although i must admit that i dont know if these are old paints as i believe the production date that is under the bottle is 2013. Is this the production / expiration date ? Also can you please post any pic that shows how the Agrax normaly behaves ? That would be nice for comparison :) i used a lot on one zombie, and in other i diluted it with water, this was the worst as this white patches appeared, also tried to apply without diluting but in a more localized way, still it got shiny :( I dont know if all the commercial washes tend to be like this, i am intrigued by the Secret Weapon washes, although maybe they are not so necessary, maybe its easier to just dilute paint , i dont know
  8. So most of the washes are shiny, i am right? I tried Reaper ones and they are not shiny but they stain everything , leaving a dirty look on the mini. Are Secret weapon washes shiny too? Usually i use only diluted paint, but what i dont like about it is that its irregular, it doesnt get in all the nooks and crannies.
  9. Thanks for the info! its just that they work so well, they are perfect EXCEPT for the shininess and white spots, its mostly agrax earthshade. I dont varnish will dullcote as its not available here, what do you think of the reaper and secret weapon washes? are they better in this aspect?
  10. Hi, i got many citadel shades as i read that they are very good so i gave them a try. I had previously experienced with the Reaper ones and didnt like them too much , they leave a dirty look IMO. But with the citadel ones, the problem is other think altogether: agrax earthshade dries extremely shiny and if i dilute it a little, it tends to dry white in some places. You can see the results in the pictures :( I was wondering if this is normal, i mean is this shiny? Is there any solution to it? I searched in the dakka dakka forums and did everything, shaking as hell, mixed the shade with an drink stirrer, even put the pots in warm water in hopes this make the components mix. This helped in a way, now it doesnt get white so easily, but its still shiny as hell. Any advice, and most of all experiences with this shades? i found that most of the info on the internet just praises them for being too incredible and useful, but if all the shades leaves this shiny on the model, i think nobody did an honest review about them. thanks again for all your help, i am looking to fix them, although if i cant i probably sell them :( The pics are of several zombies that i painted just for testing as this shades ruined my work on one that was nearly finished :( Please any help its welcome. Are all citadel shades so shiny? seems to me that Agrax Earthshade is the one that is worst in this aspect, i already changed 3 bottles and all with the same problem. Here in my country we dont have too many hobby stores, so most of the paints are not fresh, some citadel bottles shows the date 2013 or 2011, although i bought some citadel paints that are even older and i dont have any problem with them! I mostly paint with Reaper though, just dont love reaper washes , dont know how to use them properly i guess.
  11. Thanks Wren for all this info! Really appreciated, and well explained :) i love the undead triad that i have atm, but probably will order a new one just for comparison, if i see too much difference i will post the comparison here, although it may take a while as i need to order the paints first
  12. Thanks Wren, as always your input about this technical issues is invaluable :) i was a little distressed as i dont see the colour matching exactly as i expected. In your experience, does the paint change of color or hue if its too old? i didnt bought these triads directly from the reaper store, but from Miniature Giant, and i was worry that the colour its not the same because maybe the paints are old or something, i really dont know :( , they work fine just it bugs me that i feel the bloodless skin more whiteish, the moldy skin more yellowish than green, and the ghoul skin more green - gray, i dont have any other copies of this colors to compare so its difficult to determine if this is some issue of the paint batch or maybe the paint its perfect its just me that i find them different.
  13. Thanks!! Inarah this is really helpful as it confirms that the undead triad is probably a little yellow , more than the pics that i saw on the net , thanks for posting your pics :) Thanks Pegazus, i will search for this pamphlet i believe i have it , and will compare the colors following your advice.
  14. By chance do you have anything that has a basecoat or any pic that shows how the real color it is like? I has shaken them , but what i want is something to compare the color i have i find the mouldy skin color a tad yellowish instead of greenish as i suppose it should be :(
  15. Yeah i know that the website colors are probably not the same, but what i want to know is how are the actual colors in reality as i dont know if the ones i have are as intended or not
  16. Hi, i have many Reaper Colours in triads, but i dont know if maybe the store that sold them to me some years ago had an old batch or else, as i see that some of the colors are not as shown in the reaper site. So wanted to ask anybody that has the "undead skin tones" and "vampiric skintones" , if you have any pics that show the true colour of the "moldy skin", "bloodless skin", "ghoul skin", "vampiric skin", "vampiric highlight" and "vampiric shadow", as i want to compare and determine if maybe my colors are wrong or something :( and see what i need to add to them to make them be as intended :) Thanks for the help !
  17. Are you referring to the new BONES line of paints? I thought they were the same as the MSP and was different only in name. So that means that you also have problems with the MSP metallics? Does the new Bone paints have equivalent metallics that the MSP line?
  18. Oh sorry, the ones i am using are Polished Silver 9054, Honed Steel 9053, Shadowed Steel 9052, Ancient Bronze 9049, Antique Gold 9050, New Gold 9051, Blackened Steel 9205, Tarnished Steel 9206, True Silver 9207, among others. I dont know i they are MSP colours, but they are in droper bottles. Thanks for the reference about La Paz, as its the capital city of my country :) but not to worry about that as i live in Santa Cruz, that is way below the altitude of La Paz, actually its a tropical city hehe, mostly like Brazil climate.
  19. I tried airbrush medium, flow improver, also medium (i believe that is the reaper brush on selaer so far, isnt it?), water, and even experimented with alcohol just for the sake of it, nothing works :( Either its too thick and dries too fast, making horrible brushstrokes, or its too diluted that have problems adhering properly, sometimes even lose its shine significantly. But are they workable? For me its like a chore, as the p3 ones are way better IMO, just that i love the colours in the Reaper metallic line, especially the silvers, too bad that ones are the worst in my experience :( Here i am hoping there is a way to ask for replacements, but dont know if maybe this is a issue as a whole with the metallic line, or just a bad batch of paint, although its a little difficult to think about it, as even the metallics i got in a learn to paint set behave that way. I bought all from miniature giant store, but my other normal reaper paints are not problematic, not most of them at least.
  20. Hi, i am a slow painter, so even if i started some time ago, i am just paiting my first full body armor miniature (seelah paladin on bones). I bought several Reaper metallics and some also came with the learn to paint kit i bought too, and ALL of them have issues. First they tend to dry too fast even on wet pallete, also i stirred them with a drink stirrer, but still paiting with them is a pain , specially compared to the P3 metallics, which i bought some time ago as i heard very good things about them. Well my question is this, is it normal that the RP metallics have this bad coverage, and issues like drying too fast and horrible brushtrokes (i try to dilute them, but as always, water is an enemy of metallics , also try to spread small quantities of undiluted paint, also dont work), or its just a very bad batch? If so , how can i save them? They work, its just that they work bad IMO. If its not possible for me to save them, do you know if i can ask preplacements from Reaper? I wrote them some weeks ago but nobody answered me. This issue buggers me as i live in Bolivia south america, here Reaper is not available anywhere, i made my part importing them to my country, and they dont work so i am a sad panda :( Thanks pals
  21. I contacte I sent a mail directly to Reaper customer service and they told me that the stirrer dont affect the paint, although didnt explain too much . Thanks for the tip about yellows, will definetely try it!
  22. I think is something with the yellows in the reaper line isnt it?
  23. There are some bubbles on the pot, and also when i put some paint in my wet palette, but apart of that i only see but a few on the mini when i paint, and they dissapear after a while.
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