arclance

The plastic bases soften a lot but don't melt in the oven so I do not bake them on them. They just slump into a sad flat disc if you do bake them with sulpey on them. I cut wooden bases out of 1/16" fiberboard to match the plastic bases and use those to make Sculpey bases. I put the Sculpey on the base and press it into the mold. If the sculpey is still attached to the base I trim it using the base edge as a guide. If the sulpey is loose I trim as close to the base edge as I can with a pair of scissors using the base as a guide. I then put them on the wooden bases and bake them in the oven. I re-attach them to the bases with superglue if needed. Then I trim them with a scalpel and sand them with a dremel tool to remove any remaining overhang even with the wooden base. I then fill any gaps between the base and the Sulpey with whatever lefover gap filling medium I have out that day and sand that smooth once it sets.

Just make sure its aluminum and not a cheap steel one or it will be rust city. It only needs to soak for about a half hour to flatten the paper, the water won't stay hot long anyway. It should not be any more likely to rust than if you soaked it in the sink before hand washing it.

I soak mine in a rimmed baking sheet (the kind you make cookies with).

That is why I always write down what I need to buy otherwise I forget something.

For solid color shapes like Space Marine Chapter Badges I cut paint masks on the vinyl plotter at work from adhesive backed paint mask. You end up with the same shape but it looks more natural on the model. I made a lot of these for a friend who has some nerve damage in his painting hand and was getting frustrated with matching what he had done before the nerve damage. When I do freehand I practice on something else before I try it on the model to be sure I can actually do it first.

That does not work with the small bit you use for pinning. There is not enough surface are on a bit that small so you just end up with a large wrap of tape that does not hold the bit firmly and deforms.

My old green stuff is so hard that it cracked plastic bases in half when I tried making bases on Basius pad with it.

For feet like this I drill an angled hole through the flat part of the shoe and then bend a pin so the exposed part of it is perpendicular with the bottom of the shoe. To get the bend in the right place I insert the pin into the hole and mark it with a sharpie when it is all the way in and them remove it and bend it with pliers. I have to do this often with models in a walking pose but it works for heeled shoes with small heels as well.

Yes GW released the Generals Handbook which has points values and rules for using them for almost every unit. It has raised the popularity of Age of Sigmar drastically. My local store actually had to restock some of their old Warhammer Fanatasy stuff because of interest in Age of Sigmar. The store had a large stock of Tomb Kings someone ordered and never picked up that I had been slowely buying because I wanted the models. I tried Age of Sigmar with them since I already had them and it is fun but definately less complicated than 40K (never played Fantasy). It is fun and a lot more accesible than other tabletop army battle/skirmish games. It would be a good way to introduce someone to these types of games instead of throwing them into the deep end with 40K. The fluff is still mostly lame and no one around here really follows it much beyond reading summaries on the Internet. They realllllly spend to much of their time and art budget on the Stormcast Eternals (aka Sigmarines) and Khornite Warriors of Chaos.

I'm pretty "meh" about them too. But I'm not digging KD as much as I used to, I've got other "crushes" on different miniatures right now. My tastes change every now and then. I still need to paint up some of my KD that I have on hand too. I might want something from it but I need to check my list of what I already own at home to be sure. Mostly I hope for KD to re-release something I want than for them to release something new.

I have a old package of green stuff that is exactley like that. I found it bad for sculpting and making bases with Basius pads. It was like trying to use chewing gum that had been chewed for several hours first. I only use it for green stuffing magnets in place where super glue would not give enough support to keep the magnet in position until it sets.

That was what trying Raphael and to a lesser extent Da Vinci was for me. They tened to split or not hold their shape and the tip of one Raphael sort of instantly dried while I was using it. My W&N brushes are nice but don't hold their shape as well as the Rosemary & Co. brushes I have so I can't justify the price to get more of them. When I got my Rosemary brushes I split a order with the best painter I know locally who wanted to try some. He liked them and thought they were not quite as good as the old W&N he used to use years ago when he could afford them. He also likes that they had sable riggers which he had been looking for under a different name because he uses them for freehand.

I have a couple of the Tamiya ones that I like a lot. They cost a bit more than other options but I had gotten annoyed with my cheap ones not holding bits straight so I got something different. They hold the small thin bits for pinning feet to bases with sewing pins as well as the larger bits like 1/8" for larger magnets. Some other generic looking ones I have seen don't hold the ~1/8" bits.

Acetone = Nail Polish Remover. Buy cheap in large bottles at Walmart. I guess I learned something today. XD I knew it was in nail polish remover, but didn't know where to buy. Wound up at CVS, purchased a pretty large bottle for $5. I'll let y'all know how it goes! xo Tay Many nail polish removers that contain acetone (there are acetone free options) are diluted. You can get bottles of acetone at most hardware stores cheaply.

I mix the Tamiya clears with their thinner in small amounts on the concave side of glass beaker lid. This lets me see if they are thinned enough for brushing and monitor their drying easily. The Tamiya clears at least have a long shelf life, I have used some of my fathers 10 year old jars and they work fine.