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Slatejunco

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Everything posted by Slatejunco

  1. Agreed. I'm loving the color choices here, and the shadows on the dress are excellent. And it's probably TMI, but bum shadows are some of my favorite shadows to paint. Now that I see it written out, it's definitely TMI. No doubt about it.
  2. Very cool -- makes me want to pick up this figure. Love the eyes and the greenish black cloak vs. the reds. This immediately made me think of Darkest Dungeon, where one of the character types is a plague doctor.
  3. Interesting that they cleared up. Maybe I do need to clean or replace the tips and see if that helps.
  4. Dang. Looks like they're continuing several of my favorites that I intentionally sought out doubles for against the coming famine. I nearly panicked when I thought Suntan, Caucasian, and Maiden Flesh were going away. On the other hand, it makes me glad I got a spare Ashen Brown, Twilight Purple, and Field Grey. So, guess that's a wash.
  5. Thickness doesn't seem to be the issue, exactly. Thinning, even slightly, tends to really exacerbate the coverage problem and "slick" feel. I've been playing around with water, flow aid, and Jen Haley's gunk (water/flow aid/slo dry) and have yet to find something that makes it behave like 90% of my Reaper paint. It's like it doesn't quite want to adhere to primer (Reaper and Vallejo) or the underlying paint layers. Brush strokes are super evident until you get several layers down. Really puzzling. It's possible. I'm not sure if that'd cause the other behaviour (slick, coverage issues, not leveling well) that I'm seeing once the paint hits the figure. I've cleared the tips with a little bead reamer that I usually use for fully dried tips. Perhaps a soak in something might clean them up properly? Thanks for all the suggestions, btw. Reaper is my paint of choice, and I love how most of the colors feel and flow, so this has been bugging me.
  6. I'm not sure if I can explain with taking a picture, which would be tough, but I'll give it a shot. The best I can do is this: most Reaper paints I've used will separate neatly from the bottle tip when you squeeze them onto the palette from a height of, say, half an inch or more. They drop neatly onto my palette or wet palette. The ones that handle strangely usually drop to the palette trailing a thin "string" of gooey paint to the bottle tip. It's closer to how egg whites behave, as opposed to cream, though of course on a smaller scale. Like there's something in the base that's stickier. Maybe 1 in 4 of my Bones paints exhibit this issue to some degree. No amount of shaking seems to improve this -- the pigment seems fully mixed through the medium, but the paint itself is kinda... mucousy. I've been tempted to take it to the extreme and pick up a second-hand Vortex mixer to see if that would solve the problem. Typical "guy" instinct, I guess: if it's not working, add wall current. :/
  7. I've been meaning to ask about this now that I have the full Bones line. There are a few colors that I love but won't use because they're gooey, slick, and don't seem to self-level that well. I can usually tell I'm going to have this issue if the paint creates "strings" when I drop some onto the palette from the bottle. No amount of shaking changes the overall feel. Eldritch Purple, Dungeon Grey and Nut Brown come to mind, but there are others. Like Wren said, none to the level of Umber Brown, but enough so that using them is a pain, and I revert to something similar in old HD or Core. The thing I loved about the original HD sets was the feel of the paint -- creamy, smooth, and willing to jump right off my brush without any conditioning agents. One or two coat coverage, and more importantly, *even* coverage. Bones has been much more hit and miss for me, which has been a disappointment because the colors are amazing. Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions for a workaround? Or is it possible I've gotten some bad paints? I'm hesitant to suggest the last one, simply because Reaper quality control seems top notch.
  8. Fantastic. I've always wanted to tackle a box set. The green and orange on the Brass and cold blues on the Platinum might be my favorites.
  9. Just wanted to pop in to thank you. Even if the kinks haven't been totally worked out, this file is immensely helpful.
  10. Thanks for your help! I primarily use Reaper, but I've got a healthy collection of Citadel washes and paints. Straight Reaper bone triads haven't gotten me where I want to go (darker, yellowed-brown in the deepest shadows up to an almost polished look for the highlights), so I need a better approach. And it's likely that I have the colors you used, either Citadel or their Vallejo, Coat D'Arms, or Army Painter analogs.
  11. Okay, I actually laughed out loud at this. The overall composition (and execution!) here is fantastic. If you don't mind me asking, what was your approach on the bone parts? I'm trying to get that exact effect on a suit of armor right now, and haven't hit on the right colors yet for base and shade.
  12. I really dig some of the old-school style orc sculpts by Bob Olley and Sandra Garrity. This guy just oozes White Box cool. If you don't mind me asking, what colors/paints did you use for the skin? It might not have been what you were going for, but I think it turned out great.
  13. Slatejunco

    Vardo

    I'd echo everything said here, plus I love the tasteful but deliberate basing. The flower tufts really place the vardo in a scene. Me, I imagine it parked in a high mountain pass for the night as the owner travels between villages.
  14. Thank you all for the great advice and for sharing your experiences. It's always heartening to hear that I'm not the only one with these sorts of struggles. I've started paying more attention to the WIP board, and I find it particularly inspiring to see the variety of ways people manage to turn chaos into art. My hope is to come up with some sort of simple photo station and share more of my stuff. Maybe not any proper WIP threads -- my method doesn't lend itself well to the awesomely detailed writeups many people do -- but at least getting my work out there in the name of charting progress and asking for some C&C. I'd also like to respond to some of the specific advice ya'll have given, but perhaps a bit later; it's late here and I'm not focused enough to dive in too deeply. But I wanted to express my gratitude for all the feedback!
  15. (Wasn't sure where to post this -- if it belongs in a different forum, please let me know!) So, with January come New Year's resolutions. One of my resolutions this year (aside from the Big Three: being kinder, handsomer, and richer) is to break out of some of my longstanding painting ruts and, hopefully, discover some new things. The question for y'all is: What approaches have worked for you to reawaken your sense of painting adventure and expand your skillset? Some things I'm considering: Posting more work on this forum, even if it's just a running tally of the stuff I've done. This is #1. Starting a painting blog. I've never blogged before. Creating a smaller "core" paintset from my sprawling collection, and working just from that. But good lord, I love ALL THE COLORS. Moving on from humanoid figures. This is a big one; I haven't completed many monsters, and fur, feathers, and scales intimidate me. Working on more simple figures to practice technique and color choice. Modern minis often have this wonderful, Wayne Reynolds-level of detail and fiddly bits, but sometimes that's a rabbit hole that distracts me from practicing composition. Finding a way to value finishing over fiddling. This is a big one; I want to sling some lead and get practice-by-repitition. It's time to give up on the idea of getting each mini perfect. But for someone like me, it is a tough mindgame to win. Have any of these worked for you? What other tricks, tips, or fun distractions have changed your mindset and opened up new possibilities for you? Thanks in advance! -slate
  16. I do too, and it's causing me fits trying to choose my essential earth tones. They probably account for half or more of my total collection, and for a good reason -- I find brown variants are tricky to mix. Personal MVP mention here (aside from the obvious Oiled Leather and Walnut Brown): Ashen Brown is another awesome HD color, and I'm very, very sad it's being discontinued. Wren suggested it as a great way to shade a variety of flesh tones. She was, as always, spot-on.
  17. In the name of "less is sometimes more," I'm trying to filter my 350+ paint plus collection down into a (relatively) small, personalized set of 100 or so. I'm doing it on the theory that sometimes restrictions are helpful creatively -- fewer options equals more time spent painting and experimenting, and less time paralyzed by decision overload. One shade that I thought I might be able to minimize were the greys. After all, grey is simply white+black in different proportions, right? So just get a white and a black and mix it up. Seemed like a perfect place to kill my darlings in the name of art. I was so wrong. After going through my grey tones, I realized that I have far too many that I consider indispensable. Like, twice as many as I have room for in my reduced set. For example, how could I do without: Field Grey (Reaper HD): It's grey. It's green. It's the color of moldy stone and a great shade for olive, orcskin, and the the mossy triad. Gotta keep it. Sad it was discontinued. Ash Grey (Reaper HD): A middling grey. I like it as a neutral starting point. Military Grey (Reaper HD): Pretty dark with a touch of blue. Shadows. Coated Armor (was it a CAV color?): Lighter blue, lots of character. I use this one quite a bit -- it reminds me of Army Painter Wolf Grey, which I like as well. Wolf Grey (Bones HD): A fantastic lighter shade. Perhaps cooler? It makes a great drybrush on darker shades for a dirtier cast, or is a good base on its own for fur! Dark Elf Triad (MSP): An MVP. Can't do without these, and the touch of purple adds a sinister and inviting look when shading up blacks or down from whites. Dusky Skin Triad (MSP): When the elf triad isn't working, Ill go with this one. So good for shading and highlighting brownish blacks and whites and giving a warmer touch. The Fang and Fernisian Grey (GW): These two are like peas and carrots, and make me think of winter. Would use them on every mini if I could. Warmgrey and Cold Grey (Vallejo): Different from anything in the other lines (that I can find); provide a great contrast to some of the others, sometimes as a spot color. ...and so on. What are a few of your favorite greys, and how do you use them?
  18. Late to the party, but I had to comment: love your beholder. Awesome gums!
  19. Slatejunco

    Fire Giant

    Fantastic. This might be what finally inspires me to try some subtle OSL myself. Love the simple yet effective color scheme. You have a good eye for balance.
  20. My short answer would be yes. I've got most of the HD originals. I even did a comparison of some of the greens last night, since I'm trying to fit my HD collection in a slightly-too-small Plano case and need to jettison any near duplicates. I didn't notice any close matches, though. Based on the swatches, I was expecting gnoll pelt (or is it fur?) or troll skin to be very close to jungle camo and mossy green. They're really quite distinct, and both a bit more vibrant. I've been painting with troll skin today and like it a lot -- it's got more "pop" to it than you'd expect from the swatch. The goblin skin is a unique orange brown. And orc skin is really great. It seems a natural fit for depicting faded natural or decaying things. Among other things, it's a fantastic rotting zombie color, which the set doesn't otherwise have. If there were any similarities, I might say the kobold color is pretty close to some of the other dark bricky reds in the HD set, maybe crimson red. But I usually have a hard time distinguishing dark reds, so take that with a grain of salt.
  21. I just wanted to say how much I'm digging these sets. The monster colors, in particular, add some really nice less-saturated colors to the Bones palette. Can't wait for future additions to the line!
  22. Fantastic review -- I'd love to have one of these. Thanks for your impressions. Also, that fox mini is beautiful. If I could paint as well as you, that'd be a perfect Christmas stocking stuffer for my gal.
  23. Apologies if this is a topic that's been discussed elsewhere, but are there any plans to produce more of the Bones 3 Armory hard-plastic sprues? They seem like the perfect solution for replacing bendy-wendy Bones weapons. Plus, I love the clean designs. I'm just afraid that there won't be any more after I use up my current supply.
  24. As a heads-up, HD Umber Brown might not be the best yardstick in the HD line. Other posts here have indicated that its coverage is less than ideal, and I've found that to be the case, too. Hopefully, others can chime in on this and confirm or refute. Solid black has never given me problems, though. It's pretty... solid.
  25. Dixon -- Yeah, I can't imagine giving up certain Core paints, particularly the liners and a couple of the skin triads. Thanks. And this brings up an interesting question -- if I have only Solid White and Solid Black HD, am I missing out if I skip Dragon White and Black? Since getting more seriously into painting, I've been shocked to discover how different two "pure" blacks can be.
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