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  1. Recently tried this out...paint thinned using 75% Liquitex Airbrush Medium/25% Liquitex Slo-Dri Fluid Retarder mix in three test groups. The Bones mini was washed/cleaned and then primered using Stynylrez Black with a dry brushing of Stynylrez White. The lightest (upraised arm) is around 90% thinned. The middle (arm down) is around 50% thinned. The darkest (torso) is not thinned and straight out of the bottle. I originally bought this thinking it was more of a "Dark Shadow" and would be a black/gray, it's not. It's really like a Sepia. It's not the color I originally thought it was, but it turned out for the best anyway. This is a truly awesome color. Thought I'd share my experience with it.
  2. I recently received my order for some paint and they threw in Surkar, Orc Shaman of the REAPER Bones Black line. (Thanks!) ...although the actual casting material is not black at all, more of a grey/green. THIS is what I expected the Bones white material to be like in every way. I have to say I have been very disappointed in the material quality of the white Bones over the years. Way to flimsy and way too many mold lines which are made worse by the way too soft material as they are ridiculously difficult to trim/file away and weapons, ect are usually always warped and bent. There is also the issue of paint adhesion which can occur. The price is great, however, I would rather pay more for Black Bones quality. Thus, I will only be purchasing Metal and Black Bones from now on. I am in this hobby to enjoy it and that is not possible with minis of such a poor material quality that they are what might come out of some cheap vending machine. I refuse to allow this to become a new standard and new normal. Sure you get a lot, but I'll take quality over quantity any day. I would rather have one Black Bone mini than any number of White Bones. If you think I will ever try and straighten out bent weapons, ect of Bones White minis by using one of the myriad ways of doing so, those days are long gone. Like I say, I am in this wonderful hobby to enjoy it and with Black Bones maybe I can continue enjoying it. REAPER brings the world a lot of awesome minis and their experimentation with non-metal materials is welcome, but Imho, they would do well to phase out the White Bones and replace them all with the Black Bones and never look back.
  3. I am curious why the new line of paints made especially for Bones minis. I am assuming they act as primers also and have good adhesion to the Bones minis?...if so, has me wondering... Do their white, grey and black primers have the same good adhesion qualities/charateristics as this new line? If so, why make a new line of paints if your already existing primers have the same qualities/characteristics...just use those primers, then paint those Bones. Aside from possibly loosing some detail from the primering, what is the difference? Has anyone any feedback on their primers? I use Liquitex Black or White Gesso. They have great coverage, a slow open time and shrink allowing absolute minimum detail to be lost while leveling brush strokes extremely well. They also have a nice "tooth" to them. Maybe a bit too much. Which is why I am looking around for a "ultimate" primer with the same qualities but less tooth.
  4. I'll pick some of these up next week to try. Thanks for the heads up. The ones with a hooked end look especially useful.
  5. After reading the comments, I tried water instead of the 70% IPA. I didn't try water first, because I assumed it wouldn't do any good at all. Was I ever wrong. I'm not sure if one works better or not, if anything it seems maybe the water does, even if it's the same as the IPA, I'd rather be using water because there are no safety concerns like with the IPA. Also, in the IPA MSDS it states that it can "attack" some plastics...which may have a adverse affect on the BONES over time. Sorry for the false alarm, but at least something was learned. :) ...use W A T E R "We know that Bones are not affected noticeably by exposure to water, which is an aggressive, strongly polar solvent." :) It seems to me that water may work better actually. A wash is a great idea to help see mold lines. I won't be making anymore videos on this though. Too bad I didn't just try water first. The video would have shown that instead of the IPA. :( The ARMY PAINTER Diamond File Set TL5003 Miniature and Model Files. I've seen similar ones from other companies out there. Water is better! I'm using water now since it seems to work at least as well and there are no safety concerns. DOWN WITH THE GRIBBLIES!
  6. I have great results using LIQUITEX Black Gesso brushed on then White drybrushed as a Pre-Shade.
  7. WIP

    PVA as primer!?

    I use Black Gesso from LIQUITEX applied with a brush and then REAPER Pure White drybrushed over that for pre-shading. The Black Gesso has a nice tooth to it and adheres great to the BONES minis. It shrinks uniformly to the minis detail and does not obscure detail. My experience has been the White Gesso is too "toothy" and not smooth enough, hence the use of the REAPER Pure White which has a smoother finish. ...still experimenting as always.
  8. UPDATE! I stopped using IPA and use WATER now. (See why below in the comments section). The video tutorial was removed because I don't want to be promoting any bad ideas. Use WATER for the win. :) (ORIGINAL POST) As much as I luv the REAPER BONES minis, (except when the bits are bent and misshapen in annoying ways out of the package (-_-) I was about to forsake them forever because of the issues with removing the mold lines...until I tried using 70% Rubbing Alcohol while filing them. :D According to the MSDS http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9924413 "Isopropyl alcohol attacks some plastics, rubber, and coatings." Use at your own risk as it may damage your miniatures or cause health issues. ! Read Direction Label ! Use only in a well ventilated area and protective gloves are recommended. !