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WIP

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Everything posted by WIP

  1. What sort of Acrylic are they? Water Based Polyurethane? I ask because I want to use a non-REAPER brand of Airbrush Medium to thin them and also use REAPER Paints over a primer of STYNYLREZ (a Acrylic Polyurethane) and want to be sure of compatibility.
  2. Thanks everyone...looks like Reaper's Royal Purple is close to Permanent Violet Dark after buying some and doing a color swatch. However, they have other violets that may be closer still (Violet Shadow?) I don't yet have which translates to: basically I'll just have to buy all their violets and compile a in-depth study comparison at a future date and post my findings...lol
  3. I'll have to try that color sometime. Thanks for the heads up. Thanks! Somewhat related, I'd luv to see Anne do a video or series on different paint mixes...a sort of..."mixing this amount of ? with this amount of ? gives you this".
  4. Thanks! These may be trial balloons for Reaper to see the market for such colors. I hope they sell enough of these colors that they continue to carry them. It's a great idea to have these "traditional" colors that are from other companies like Golden or Liquitex for example.
  5. I'm slowly rounding out my Reaper Paints collection and I noticed the Clears are: Yellow (Primary color)Red (Primary color)Blue (Primary color) Green (Secondary color)Purple(Secondary color)...where is Orange?(Secondary color) Magenta (Tertiary color) Clears seem to account for all the Primary and Secondary colors on the Color Wheel...except...Orange. Why??? I understand Magenta can be considered the real Primary color and not Red, which can explain why there are no other Tertiary colors available. But no Clear Orange just seems wrong in light of what is available for clear. Is there a color that is comparable to Clear Orange under another Non-Clear name?
  6. Thanks for the help. I am actually looking for comparisons to "traditional" colors from companies like Golden or Liquitex as examples. Permanent Violet Dark is one of them.
  7. It appears that Reapers Clear Purple is equivalent to Dioxazine Purple . I am looking for a Reaper equivalent of Permanent Violet Dark. Is there one? While I am here...are there any color swatches that have been done comparing Reapers colors to other manufacturers colors side-by-side? This would really be something to have access to. I would make one and post it, but I don't have all of Reapers paints...yet. ;) I also have to add...I absolutely luv their paint bottles, functionally and ergonomically. The best in the industry Imho.
  8. So...I was wondering if BONES BLACK can be used in molds that were made for BONES before BLACK was introduced. There are a lot of minis I'd like to buy, but just won't because of the weak structural integrity and poor quality of the BONES. BONES BLACK has changed all of that. The structural integrity is there and the quality. For example, the BONES Jabberwok is a awesome sculpt and I have one, but had to do some pinning, ect so it would stand properly and not sag and fall over after the plastic bends. If that were cast in BONES BLACK, it would be fantastic! I hope they can replace BONES WHITE with BONES BLACK for all their minis.
  9. They should transition as many of their minis away from the cheap quality Bones and instead into the better quality Bones Black as soon as possible. I would be buying more of their Bones minis, but the quality is inexcusable. Nobody wants minis that bend like they inherently do and cleaning Bones mold lines should not be like this...it all goes back to poor quality. For example, I would like to buy more Jabberwok in Bones, but the quality is pathetic. I have one, and had to pin it just so it would be posed and stand without "Bonesing" over from the the cheap plastic and not stand properly. I would buy more if they were in Bones Black. If they want sales back Bones Black should be their entire non-metal mini line and just phase out Bones original.
  10. Is there any official source information from REAPER about their paint lines? Master Series Paints Master Series Paints Bones Master Series Paints Pathfinder Colors What are the differences compared to one another...specifically? Such as viscosity, especially. Are Pathfinder Paints the same as Master Series and/or Bones Paints? I ask because I luv their Master Series paints thin viscosity and would like to know how the viscosity of their other paint lines compare.
  11. Recently tried this out...paint thinned using 75% Liquitex Airbrush Medium/25% Liquitex Slo-Dri Fluid Retarder mix in three test groups. The Bones mini was washed/cleaned and then primered using Stynylrez Black with a dry brushing of Stynylrez White. The lightest (upraised arm) is around 90% thinned. The middle (arm down) is around 50% thinned. The darkest (torso) is not thinned and straight out of the bottle. I originally bought this thinking it was more of a "Dark Shadow" and would be a black/gray, it's not. It's really like a Sepia. It's not the color I originally thought it was, but it turned out for the best anyway. This is a truly awesome color. Thought I'd share my experience with it.
  12. I recently received my order for some paint and they threw in Surkar, Orc Shaman of the REAPER Bones Black line. (Thanks!) ...although the actual casting material is not black at all, more of a grey/green. THIS is what I expected the Bones white material to be like in every way. I have to say I have been very disappointed in the material quality of the white Bones over the years. Way to flimsy and way too many mold lines which are made worse by the way too soft material as they are ridiculously difficult to trim/file away and weapons, ect are usually always warped and bent. There is also the issue of paint adhesion which can occur. The price is great, however, I would rather pay more for Black Bones quality. Thus, I will only be purchasing Metal and Black Bones from now on. I am in this hobby to enjoy it and that is not possible with minis of such a poor material quality that they are what might come out of some cheap vending machine. I refuse to allow this to become a new standard and new normal. Sure you get a lot, but I'll take quality over quantity any day. I would rather have one Black Bone mini than any number of White Bones. If you think I will ever try and straighten out bent weapons, ect of Bones White minis by using one of the myriad ways of doing so, those days are long gone. Like I say, I am in this wonderful hobby to enjoy it and with Black Bones maybe I can continue enjoying it. REAPER brings the world a lot of awesome minis and their experimentation with non-metal materials is welcome, but Imho, they would do well to phase out the White Bones and replace them all with the Black Bones and never look back.
  13. I am curious why the new line of paints made especially for Bones minis. I am assuming they act as primers also and have good adhesion to the Bones minis?...if so, has me wondering... Do their white, grey and black primers have the same good adhesion qualities/charateristics as this new line? If so, why make a new line of paints if your already existing primers have the same qualities/characteristics...just use those primers, then paint those Bones. Aside from possibly loosing some detail from the primering, what is the difference? Has anyone any feedback on their primers? I use Liquitex Black or White Gesso. They have great coverage, a slow open time and shrink allowing absolute minimum detail to be lost while leveling brush strokes extremely well. They also have a nice "tooth" to them. Maybe a bit too much. Which is why I am looking around for a "ultimate" primer with the same qualities but less tooth.
  14. I'll pick some of these up next week to try. Thanks for the heads up. The ones with a hooked end look especially useful.
  15. After reading the comments, I tried water instead of the 70% IPA. I didn't try water first, because I assumed it wouldn't do any good at all. Was I ever wrong. I'm not sure if one works better or not, if anything it seems maybe the water does, even if it's the same as the IPA, I'd rather be using water because there are no safety concerns like with the IPA. Also, in the IPA MSDS it states that it can "attack" some plastics...which may have a adverse affect on the BONES over time. Sorry for the false alarm, but at least something was learned. :) ...use W A T E R "We know that Bones are not affected noticeably by exposure to water, which is an aggressive, strongly polar solvent." :) It seems to me that water may work better actually. A wash is a great idea to help see mold lines. I won't be making anymore videos on this though. Too bad I didn't just try water first. The video would have shown that instead of the IPA. :( The ARMY PAINTER Diamond File Set TL5003 Miniature and Model Files. I've seen similar ones from other companies out there. Water is better! I'm using water now since it seems to work at least as well and there are no safety concerns. DOWN WITH THE GRIBBLIES!
  16. I have great results using LIQUITEX Black Gesso brushed on then White drybrushed as a Pre-Shade.
  17. I use Black Gesso from LIQUITEX applied with a brush and then REAPER Pure White drybrushed over that for pre-shading. The Black Gesso has a nice tooth to it and adheres great to the BONES minis. It shrinks uniformly to the minis detail and does not obscure detail. My experience has been the White Gesso is too "toothy" and not smooth enough, hence the use of the REAPER Pure White which has a smoother finish. ...still experimenting as always.
  18. UPDATE! I stopped using IPA and use WATER now. (See why below in the comments section). The video tutorial was removed because I don't want to be promoting any bad ideas. Use WATER for the win. :) (ORIGINAL POST) As much as I luv the REAPER BONES minis, (except when the bits are bent and misshapen in annoying ways out of the package (-_-) I was about to forsake them forever because of the issues with removing the mold lines...until I tried using 70% Rubbing Alcohol while filing them. :D According to the MSDS http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9924413 "Isopropyl alcohol attacks some plastics, rubber, and coatings." Use at your own risk as it may damage your miniatures or cause health issues. ! Read Direction Label ! Use only in a well ventilated area and protective gloves are recommended. !
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