Gadgetman!

You're also paying for the flexibility since normal acrylic tube paint can't be thinned like that.

I could use a heat transfer print and blow an ink cartridge in someone's printer... Or use my own Vinyl cutter, but... I like supporting the small guys online, so I don't really want to rip them off. (I'll email them next week. Don't have time now)

I use IPA for cleaning stuff, and when it gets 'icky' I run it through a coffee filter.

I am so jealous of you right now. I really, really, really want this mini, but it won't arrive for ages upon ages... And you got to paint it! And such a fantastic paintjob. I particularly love the purple hair. Such an inspired choice.

It will be possible to impart a spin on the liquid inside that will in turn affect how the outer layer spins during a roll, maybe even make it 'fall dead'(not rotate at all).

They seem to be just hollow D20 filled with a pearlescent fluid. Frankly, if someone brought one of these to a game I ran, I'd trow them the elf out... on their heads! (Not that I'd ever run a game of any sort, but... ) I suspect that if someone tried they could introduce a spin to the 'core' that would make the roll predictable. Also, according to the artist, there wil lbe a small 'plug' somewhere, that is supposed to be nearly invisible. In other words, it'll look like someone has tampered with it.

You should try the 'Kvikklunsj' sold here i Norway. Nestle has been trying to kill it off for years, but so far, they haven't gotten anywhere. It was declared the best one by the Englishmen who tried it... Tomorrow, when I get to the office I'll have to get straight into the IT-mobile (VW Caddy) and drive an hour out to one of our offices and fix something that someone else elfed uproyally. We have some 'kiosks' controlled by Raspberry Pis, and one of those is no longer working. I got the ticket early on monday, and did some remote diagnosing. (Tried to PING it, it didn't respond. Talked a user through rebooting the elfed thing. No change) Unfortunately, I got told that 'fixing the kiosk' is done by a different group... Not even an IT group.... So I sent them the ticket. And got it back today, at just before closing. They claim that they could reach it, and that the reason it's not working is that a HDMI to VGA adapter has failed. I suspect that they diagnosed a unit in the wrong town... (There are two towns with similar names; Kristiansund and Kristiansand... ) No, I don't have spares. someone thought that 'these are so robust that it won't be necessary'... And now the RPi3 is discontinued... The RPi4 doesn't have a regulard HDMI, and the power connector has been changed to USB C. So a RPi4 won't physically fit in the casing inside the kiosk. I'll probably end up bringing one of my private spares.... But most likely, it's the uSD card that has been corrupted. The thing is taking lots of pictures(using a very expensive Nikon digital SLR, so big files) and temporarily storing them on the uSD card. And the uSD card has some sort of Linux distro on i, and they won't give me access to the disk image so that I can prep a card in advance. I may need to bring my 'problem solver' for this... (4lbs sledgehammer) In other news, my brother hits the big 50 this weekend, and I'm going to visit to annoy him. At the same time I'm considering stopping by a little MiniCon in Oslo, Kanoncon. I don't expect there to be anything particularly interesting, but who knows.

No sooner had my order from Signum shipped, but... Yeah. Then I stopped over on White Lightning Productions, and attempted to order this T-shirt: Even Gene Roddenberry have that one, but no... I can't have it because they don't ship to Norway. They also have one with a silhouette on the front, and the text Own a Tauntaun, it gives you a warm feeling. It would have made a good Chirstmas gift for my sister...

Today it's 130 years since the 'Titran accident' The day before a lot of small fishing boats left the fishing village of Frøya, somewhere north of Trondheim on the northwest coast of Norway for the fishing grounds known as the Titran sea. That evening a storm came in from the Atlantic, and hit the fishing grounds at around 1am. 29 boats were lost and 142 men lost their lives. Both the ports of Kristiansund and in Trondheim had telephones and got a storm warning, but while Frøya was slated to get it, it was not yet operational. That same storm killed 30 fishermen at Røvær near Haugesund on the southwest coast on the 13th. One of my Greats was in an open fishing boat that night. He was washed overboard by the waves twice, but managed to get back on board both times.

Army Painter is... for special interest groups. I found their white to be more like chalk paste than paint, and the rest also required thinning to become usable. For Tamiya, all you really want from them are the clears. There's nothing like it in any of the other ranges. And for good reason. Not only is the stuff toxic, but it smells to high heaven also. And yeah, you don't want to use it with your good brushes. Use in well ventilated areas only. The old Humbrols have nothing on these... Reaper's metallics also requires a whole lot of Shaking going on. Varnishes not only helps adjust the shine, but it also protects the paint. You'll find that dust can cling to minis for years after they've been painted, unless they've been varnished. And some varnish after doing something difficult. Because if they accidentally hit some freehand with a brushful, it can be wiped off without destroying the freehand.

Great paintjob! Almost good enough that we can forgive you for using Citadel paints... Actually, thnking about it, I probably have those, too... Somewhere... (Never got around to trying them. Are they any good?) Did you use a varnish on it? You may want to use a matte varnish on at least the cloth parts to cut down the glare since most fabrics aren't that shiny. (This is not a critique, just my suggestion to push it towards the next level of excellence) A Donegan Optivisor with optic glass lenses is a nice tool to help with detail work. You may want to send a PM to a moderator to combine the two threads.

Note that Signum models are first produced in Resin, then Metal, so read up first. Metals should have the word 'Metal' on the picture, but... The main kits are still Resin, though. They're not entirely to the level of Kimera or Scale75, and you can expect to use a bit of GS or other putty where parts fits together, but most details are much better than metal. I don't have any GF9 minis that I'm aware of. (I have a very comprehensive spreadsheet)

Sometimes... Habits can be dangerous... I have a long ingrained habit of switching the hotplate off before removing a pot. It's normally a good habit as it stops the plate from going red-hot and possibly starting a fire... But today I was making caramel pudding, which is 'mostly' milk. And I had the heat on a bit higher than I should so it came to a boil a bit quicker than expected. I switched off the plate, thentried to grab the pot... at the same elfed moment as the milk boiled over! Now my left longfinger hurts, the stove smells of caramel, and I need to wash the floor... I saved most of the caramell pudding, though.

Okay... Here's the problem. Most of those models are short run. 200 is common, 500 is pretty much max. (the moulds never lasts very long, so they constantly have to make new ones, and that wears on the master, also. ) So if you like a model, you BUY IT NOW, because if you wait until you're actually capable of painting it, odds are that it was sold out a long time ago, and now only available as a bad Chinese recast. And we DO NOT condone buying that recast. (We may accept Cadwallon recasts of old Confrontation pieces, but only because the company that owns the IP now is a big sackful of orcs. ) So I have a lot of fantastic minis from Scale75, Black Sun and all the others. Mostly they're stored in plastic boxes, but now and then I take one out to admire it... And sometimes I spot a mold line or some flash, and I say to myself, 'hey, I can fix that!' and that model takes a small step towards completion. A few of them have even gotten a coat of primer, and in the case of the 75mm Lady Mechanica from the 'Tesla's Legacy' series from Kabuki, I've even shot some base colour. (only on the 'base' that the mini is attached to, but still... ) If you want a boxfull of resins to start out on, snag a copy of Signum The Game. Sure, it's 32mm scale, not 75mm or 120, but they still got a whole lot of detail in there, and many of the nonhuman races are significantly taller than humans. Also the sculpts are pretty nice. Very 'Confrontational'. I'm actually about to drop them an order(not for the game, I have that) for their new Ulrike the Pathfinder.

You can pay for those ships during the PM later... Now, what's more worrying is that there's only ONE Female! Midlam has been pretty good at incorporating females in their sets, so that's a bit odd.