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TitanZero

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About TitanZero

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    Mostly Harmless

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    Pacific Northwest
  1. And now, by request, I present a lich with a flaming skull. Flavor Text: After the cultists opened the rift, and were promptly eaten, all manner of strange beast came though. Most fearsome were the Liches, commanders of the undead. The fed from the fresh battlegrounds and quickly the Rebels and Redcoats formed an easy peace to take on this new threat.
  2. TitanZero

    Custom Sculpt - General Oliver Brookwater

    Something like this? Note I just started and the flames are far from done.
  3. TitanZero

    Custom Sculpt - General Oliver Brookwater

    So as I make tweaks to the general, any votes for what I make next? 1. a Lich demon with a flaming skull 2. A female warrior with huuugggeee... Iron fists.
  4. TitanZero

    Custom Sculpt - General Oliver Brookwater

    On the night of August 16th 1780 a group of hooded figured snuck out onto the battlefield in Camden. The British Red Coats and the Rebels had both retreated for the time being, leaving over a thousand corpses strewn in the fields. The hooded figures got to work. With bone, sinew and blood they drew diagrams and circles whos shape would shake sanity. A few hours before dawn the portal opened to the delight of the cloaked figures. To the delight of the demons who came through a hooded buffet was provided. Now the industrial British American Colonies and the Confederated American Sates hold an uneasy peace as they both face the challenge of the rising pestilence of the Lich army. Dsmiles, Gadgetman! I hear you, and I never thought of it that way. But let me see what I can do., Tosek, I'll look at the hands and angle of the head. You know how it gets when you stare at something for 10 hours, you can't really see it any more. Xherman, I'll check out the leg. I was thinking the stubby leg actually had too many wrinkles, maybe bunch them around the tied off area and then add them to show pinching from the straps on the leg?
  5. Hi everyone, I wanted to show you all my latest sculpt and get your feedback. I am trying to *redacted* miniatures. Maybe some day *redacted*. Right now Gen. Brookwater is in the last stages before *redacted*. Still need to nail down the casting method and the material. But, hopefully, in the fall of 2016 or so *redacted*. But now is your chance to let me know what you like, what you don't like, what you'd prefer to see. Because, for the time being, changes can still be made! I'll be posting updates as time goes on and soon will have a youtube video up so you can really see him. Thank you!
  6. TitanZero

    Techmarine

    Cool kind of rusty look! And the metal on the gripper claw looks nice. Good job!
  7. Hey Mostly Harmless, I think you are making things a little too complicated. So let me show you a little demo I did in about 15 mins this morning. I took something similar from my mini graveyard and painted it with Reaper HD Brilliant Red Then I took a soda pop lid and added some water and a drop of flow release. I mixed in a drop of RHD Twilight Purple. See the toothpick in the mix? See how how the liquid is kind of transparent and you can see the toothpick submurged partially? Thats a good sign. Then layers layers layers. This is 4 layers here, I heated with a hair dryer between each to speed the process.Thats why it looks a little sloppy. If allowed to dry naturaly it comes out a little better. If it is sticking to the surface, just add a little more flow release. But again, i'd avoid ink in this arena. Ink stains. We want pigment to flow into the cracks not stain the surface.
  8. I've always used a very thin wash with an ample amount of flow release. This prevents sticking to the foreground stuff and just simply filing in the gaps. It usually takes three or four layers to get the desired effect, but having the paint this thin means you don't have to worry about a mistake showing up. Best bet: experiment with thinned washes and flow release. Find a combination that works for you. Then write it down. I keep a bottle hands handy of my premixed wash liquid handy. I just add a half drop of paint to it and instant wash. One final note, in my experience inks are more likely to stain and ruin foreground details. So in this situation I'd use a dark purple (good supporting color) paint and make a wash from it.
  9. TitanZero

    Thickening paint for dry brushing

    Likewise, I've never tried their special dry paints. However, I've found the secret is a good bush more than the paint. I happen to use a makeup brush for dry brushing. And it's amazing. Better than anything I've tried that was made for the job.
  10. TitanZero

    Anima Tatics - Deimon

    Greetings beloved Meatbags! Just finished up this little project today and I felt like showing it off. However I am feeling really disappointed that it isn't in the 40mm scale to compete! The concept behind this one is to be mostly monochromatic, which brings the attention to the face and highlights. The design on the back is freehand, and I could have done more with it, I just felt like after three tries this was good enough. If you have any questions please ask. And as always comments welcome.
  11. TitanZero

    Working With White Paint

    And now I feel like an idiot. I swear I spent a good ten mins looking for exsisting content before posting. Any way to delete a thread? Thanks for the link!
  12. Hello my fellow meatbags! I’ve heard complaints of working with yellows and reds as being the most difficult paints. But for me it’s always been painting white. After a quick rummage through the forums I couldn't find anything specifically dedicated to this topic: Working with white paint, how to highlight and shade and getting a good range of values. So I have been working on a project and it has been driving me crazy. I've stripped and repainted it several times already but never to my satisfaction. I would very like much to paint the miniature if a lovely white dress, but I can never really make the white highlights really pop. And then the shadows on white clothing always look a little off. I prime in white to make the entire thing easier, but it still feels like I need to apply thirty or more coats of white paint to really get it to really pop. Then if I have a mishap with shading it’s another thirty layers to get the pop back and then it’s a bath in solvent because it’s just not working. *Shakes fist in angry frustration* I’ve even got some Citadel white base and it feels like I need too many layers to really make things feel brilliant, like a color bomb, but in white. The easy answer, in theory, is to add more contrast, so the white on white highlights seem more brilliant. But in practice? I guess that’s what I’m looking for advice on. How do you make your white on white look good? Throw in a little bone white for shadow? How do you get your white clothing to really stand out? How do you do it without doing a bunch of layers?
  13. TitanZero

    FitzBones - 80001: Ape-X

    *slow clap* well played sir, well played. The mini definitely pops and the dry brushing is well done.
  14. TitanZero

    Mercs Recon, Wave 1

    I really like the contrasting colors. The pink contrast nicely with the green. Plus they have good contrasting values with the darkness of the green against the bright pink. The only suggestion this old pro would have is to add a couple light layers Of washes to the entire model. You did an excellent job With washes On the armor itself, but it could use a little contrast around the armor to make it pop. I would do two or three Very thin Washes To achieve this. Plus you did a good job with the dynamic lighting, giving the weapon a genuine glow. Know lots of guys and gals doing this for years and still haven't figured that out. Keep up the good work :-)
  15. TitanZero

    GW 'Ardcoat - sticky after two days?

    Think I found part of the problem. It's a trio of issues. First the Vallejo GC didn't mix well with the others. But the real culprit was the flow release. I had been using the flow release, just a tiny bit, with water to help smooth the paint for layering. And soon the layers would peal off. So I stopped any paint cross contamination and just worked with Reaper HD. Still had some minor pealing. But that shows the superior quality of Reaper paints versus the other guys. So I switched back to just using distilled water and the problem went away. I still use the flow release for washes, that's the way to go. But maybe it's the brand of flow release? I've been using Golden brand. Can't get Windsor and Newton locally and didn't feel like ordering it. Anyone else use flow release? What brand?
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