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MrNutt

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Everything posted by MrNutt

  1. Okay no problem, I still cannot find such a rule (the one I do find seems to refer to if it was me that was selling the stuff). Here's a picture anyway:
  2. pssst commerce links are a no no.... Not sure precisely what you mean by commerce links? Is it any link to something available on an online store? What I linked to was a really cheap (<$8) magnifying headset with an integrated LED light. It feels a bit cheap (the lenses are friction-fit) but I think I am going to use it a lot more than my battery-powered lamp.
  3. Not a lamp, but I had one of these arrive recently and am really impressed by it. [link removed, oops]
  4. I'm not certain of the veracity, but if you do a search for "PVA Lead Rot" you can find people positing it as a possible factor. I am thinking of putting some patchy static grass (maybe I can trim it even with a razor blade) like is shown in that link. There is a picture of the sort of thing I'm painting on this page: http://www.15mm.co.uk/products/hot99-skeleton-eternal-guard(I placed a big order with them one week before they did a free international shipping deal, d'oh) I have been trying to collect some older miniatures from eBay. The oldest I have so far are from the 1980s. I am aiming to build a collection that represents each manufacturer. In some cases these are models where there don't even seem to be any assembled/painted examples online so if I can I want them to last forever once they are painted.
  5. For those of you who use sand/flock/static grass, how do you go about applying them to your models? I have been using superglue to stick sand to my bases before priming. I avoided pva school glue with older models because I heard the gases can cause lead rot. I tried it with some plastic gw models but I found that the glue I was using (Elmer's school glue) didn't result in a good permanent solid finish. I had to put matte sealer on top. Any tips on a good type of glue for this? I am about to paint some 15mm models and I want to base them all alike. I have some coat d'arms textured earth paint coming and some static grass. My thoughts are that I will wait to apply them until after I have gloss varnished the models but before I dullcote them? I do tend to bury the feet of my models a bit with my basing. The only alternative I can think of though would be investing in a jewelers saw to cut the models' feet off their bases.
  6. I bought the full version of the app a while back. I noticed that in the new update it now wants access to my: Identity Media files Location What's going on with that?
  7. As of last weekend I now have a big bottle of "lengthened" brown liner that is diluted with a mix of water, matte medium, and flow improver. I use it so often at less than full strength that I was wasting a lot of it diluting it every time I needed it.
  8. I started out trying to just paint my bases but I'm much happier gluing on some sand and some "rocks" I made by chopping up a champagne bottle cork. http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/68268-89001-pathfinder-red-dragon-rafm-elf-halberds-crucible-91-221-ral-partha-03-209/
  9. Just took the standard bearer out to test the Krylon UV-Resistant Gloss varnish on him and he rebelliously leapt off the stick he was blu-tacked to in-transit and divorced himself from his banner. I had to settle for testing out the Dullcote on the Valkyrie I painted previously.
  10. Hello again everyone. I've been working away at trying to improve my painting. Reaper Bones 89001 Pathfinder Red Dragon This is the model that made me place my first Reaper order and get back into painting. I've started using sand for basing again and I really enjoy the fine texture it gives. I tried using sealer to "save" my work a few times on this model but I never ended up removing my mistakes, instead I just painted over them. I think this has left some of the details a bit gloopy (e.g. the horns). Overall I am pretty happy with it but I would love to hear any comments. Once I know he is done I am going to Dullcote him and then put some gloss on his tongue. RAFM Durnaoth Elf Halberds and Ral Partha 03-209 Elf Standard Bearer I bought these off eBay not really knowing what they would end up looking like. I find the standard bearer looks a little goofy (reminds me of the Planescape Torment character models) but I really like the Halberdiers. They were weird to assemble, as they were molded with their right hands attached to their thighs. They had to be cut off and their arms bent into place. I still feel like there is a little something missing. Again, any feedback would be great. I am planning to get some gloss spray (Krylon maybe?) for these guys and then I will dullcote them. I will test that on the standard bearer first. My fiancee wants to set them up with the dragon somewhere in our apartment. Crucible 91-221 Orc Eagle Knights Another eBay purchase where I had little idea what I would be getting. I was really excited to find out that these are orcs with an Aztec spin. They are almost where I want them but I still have a few things left to do. Let me know what you think. Thank you!
  11. Wow, that Android PaintRack app is amazing!
  12. The Tabletop Minions guy talks about an iPhone app called Boxes in this video. I am on Android though so I will check out the other app mentioned above. https://youtu.be/khILRDXwMeE
  13. Do you guys use the sculpting putty with your bare hands? I have some procreate that I have been trying to use with nitrile gloves but it's such fiddly work that I always end up abandoning them. I hate how it makes my skin feel (and smell, yeuch) for the next day though.
  14. Time of day seems to be important too. I get more annoyed and frustrated if I try to paint late at night (just gave up on freehanding a standard banner because my yellow has spent the evening being weird and lumpy and not drying). This was after a few weeks of trying to stick to going to bed early and waking up in early in the morning to paint before work. I guess tonight was a necessary reminder of why I was doing that.
  15. You could make something like that very easily if you can find a vacuum form machine. My high school had one, and I imagine "makerspaces" likely have them too. I actually helped my Dad build one from a baking tray, a vacuum cleaner, and a paint stripping heat gun. You just need a suitable shaped negative mold and a piece of acrylic sheet to suck onto it.
  16. It's cold and dry (well, getting warmer) here in the frozen north. I am thinning my paints with pure retardant and not noticing them to take particularly long to dry. I wonder how different my experience will be when summer comes along and it gets hot and humid instead.
  17. Thank you everyone. I may hold off on spraying my bones unless I can obtain some Testors. How about spraying gloss and dull coats over a metal miniature I previously sealed with the brush-on? Is there any downside to adding on more and more varnish? Does it being transparent mean I don't need to worry about thickness?
  18. Hello! I have a couple of questions about protecting painted miniatures. I have a bottle of the brush-on sealer which seems to work well, but I am also inclined to get hold of some spray-on sealer to save time and possibly get a tougher coat. I have heard "recipes" of doing a harder gloss coat and then a matte coat to take the shine off? Am I safe doing that over bones miniatures (I know they react badly with some spray primers), furthermore, will that go on okay if the miniature was already sealed with brush-on sealer? Thanks!
  19. I think the translucent property of skin is important and difficult to get across. I have spoken to someone who does research on rendering skin for cgi and they actually use the surface of a cup of milky tea as their test material for that sort of thing.
  20. I have a pathfinder red dragon that I am painting. My plan was to basecoat it in a dark dull red and then layer lighter shades onto the scales. What I am finding though is that the paint I apply flows into the recesses and off the raised areas... which is having the opposite of the desired effect. I have been thinning my paints about 2:1 with a water/retardant mix... am I maybe still thinning them too much? I am also having difficulties with my drybrushing. Is it important that drybrushing paint be unthinned? I'm sure I had an easier time when I was a kid working with the citadel paints (maybe because back then I didn't thin them?).
  21. I didn't get too vigorous but from what I saw it looked pretty solid. It didn't move when I inverted the bottle.
  22. My local gaming store here has a bunch of reaper paints and minis in stock (surprised me because the Reaper website doesn't have them listed, though maybe they are no longer receiving new stock?). The paints look pretty old though. There are a few metallics I am interested in but they seem to have completely separated into a plug of pigment in a yellow fluid. Will these be salvageable? I've seen previous discussions about rescuing old paint but it seems like metallics are in some way different to normal paint.
  23. This seems pretty big to me, but I don't have any frame of reference for how many events other games typically have. http://www.thenaf.net/tournaments/information/current-tournaments/
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