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Posts posted by MrNutt

  1. Any link to any site engaged in Comercial sales counts...

    See the forum rules at the very bottom of each page.

    Telling people is great, pics are better, but the rules say no links...

    Take a look at the Dept of aquisition thread to see the things we do to tell people about things, but stay within the rules.


    Okay no problem, I still cannot find such a rule (the one I do find seems to refer to if it was me that was selling the stuff). Here's a picture anyway:



    Not a lamp, but I had one of these arrive recently and am really impressed by it.


    commerce links are a no no....



    Not sure precisely what you mean by commerce links? Is it any link to something available on an online store?


    What I linked to was a really cheap (<$8) magnifying headset with an integrated LED light. It feels a bit cheap (the lenses are friction-fit) but I think I am going to use it a lot more than my battery-powered lamp.

  3. I'd never heard that the off-gasses of PVA glues can cause lead rot.  Considering most of the off-gas is water, I'd be surprised.  But not looking up the details I won't comment further. 


    I'm not certain of the veracity, but if you do a search for "PVA Lead Rot" you can find people positing it as a possible factor.


    Show a pic of your mini's so we can get a better idea what you're going after.


    White glue, gesso, paint. You can also use matte medium. Usually, I'll paint or wash or whatever on top of the base material (except static grass), which helps keep it stuck to the base or even sealed.


    Static grass: http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2010/03/applying-static-grass.html


    I am thinking of putting some patchy static grass (maybe I can trim it even with a razor blade) like is shown in that link. There is a picture of the sort of thing I'm painting on this page:

    http://www.15mm.co.uk/products/hot99-skeleton-eternal-guard(I placed a big order with them one week before they did a free international shipping deal, d'oh)


    Regarding lead rot, how old are your minis?


    I understood that minis from the last 15-20 years are all essentially lead free and that tin is the main component (90+%) in white metal casting.


    I have been trying to collect some older miniatures from eBay. The oldest I have so far are from the 1980s. I am aiming to build a collection that represents each manufacturer. In some cases these are models where there don't even seem to be any assembled/painted examples online so if I can I want them to last forever once they are painted.

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  4. For those of you who use sand/flock/static grass, how do you go about applying them to your models? I have been using superglue to stick sand to my bases before priming. I avoided pva school glue with older models because I heard the gases can cause lead rot. I tried it with some plastic gw models but I found that the glue I was using (Elmer's school glue) didn't result in a good permanent solid finish. I had to put matte sealer on top. Any tips on a good type of glue for this?


    I am about to paint some 15mm models and I want to base them all alike. I have some coat d'arms textured earth paint coming and some static grass. My thoughts are that I will wait to apply them until after I have gloss varnished the models but before I dullcote them?


    I do tend to bury the feet of my models a bit with my basing. The only alternative I can think of though would be investing in a jewelers saw to cut the models' feet off their bases.

    • Like 1

  5. Hello again everyone. I've been working away at trying to improve my painting.


    Reaper Bones 89001 Pathfinder Red Dragon




    This is the model that made me place my first Reaper order and get back into painting. I've started using sand for basing again and I really enjoy the fine texture it gives. I tried using sealer to "save" my work a few times on this model but I never ended up removing my mistakes, instead I just painted over them. I think this has left some of the details a bit gloopy (e.g. the horns). Overall I am pretty happy with it but I would love to hear any comments. Once I know he is done I am going to Dullcote him and then put some gloss on his tongue.


    RAFM Durnaoth Elf Halberds and Ral Partha 03-209 Elf Standard Bearer




    I bought these off eBay not really knowing what they would end up looking like. I find the standard bearer looks a little goofy (reminds me of the Planescape Torment character models) but I really like the Halberdiers. They were weird to assemble, as they were molded with their right hands attached to their thighs. They had to be cut off and their arms bent into place. I still feel like there is a little something missing. Again, any feedback would be great. I am planning to get some gloss spray (Krylon maybe?) for these guys and then I will dullcote them. I will test that on the standard bearer first. My fiancee wants to set them up with the dragon somewhere in our apartment.


    Crucible  91-221 Orc Eagle Knights



    Another eBay purchase where I had little idea what I would be getting. I was really excited to find out that these are orcs with an Aztec spin. They are almost where I want them but I still have a few things left to do. Let me know what you think.


    Thank you!

    • Like 7

  6. Time of day seems to be important too. I get more annoyed and frustrated if I try to paint late at night (just gave up on freehanding a standard banner because my yellow has spent the evening being weird and lumpy and not drying). This was after a few weeks of trying to stick to going to bed early and waking up in early in the morning to paint before work. I guess tonight was a necessary reminder of why I was doing that.

    • Like 1

  7. I'm thinking that if you take a piece of HDPE plastic(IKEA cutting boards are good) and use a 1/4" ball-end endmill to make wells, it just might be a good start.

    And even if it doesn't work, it should still be an awesome pallette...

    You could make something like that very easily if you can find a vacuum form machine. My high school had one, and I imagine "makerspaces" likely have them too. I actually helped my Dad build one from a baking tray, a vacuum cleaner, and a paint stripping heat gun. You just need a suitable shaped negative mold and a piece of acrylic sheet to suck onto it.

  8. The climate here and the house AC running almost constantly dries my paint in the well very quickly. It wouldn't bother me much except that when the paint starts to dry in the well, a slight film forms and the paint doesn't flow well off my brush. Plus, this gives me the excuse to play mad scientist! My personal nod of the hat to Mythbusters in their last season, "If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing."

    It's cold and dry (well, getting warmer) here in the frozen north. I am thinning my paints with pure retardant and not noticing them to take particularly long to dry. I wonder how different my experience will be when summer comes along and it gets hot and humid instead.

  9. Thank you everyone. I may hold off on spraying my bones unless I can obtain some Testors. How about spraying gloss and dull coats over a metal miniature I previously sealed with the brush-on? Is there any downside to adding on more and more varnish? Does it being transparent mean I don't need to worry about thickness?

  10. Hello! I have a couple of questions about protecting painted miniatures.


    I have a bottle of the brush-on sealer which seems to work well, but I am also inclined to get hold of some spray-on sealer to save time and possibly get a tougher coat. I have heard "recipes" of doing a harder gloss coat and then a matte coat to take the shine off? Am I safe doing that over bones miniatures (I know they react badly with some spray primers), furthermore, will that go on okay if the miniature was already sealed with brush-on sealer?



  11. Assuming you're using Reaper paints, that's a really thin wash consistency, so it's not much surprise it's acting like a wash. With Reaper and similarly thin paints you want to slightly thin (maybe 10-25% water/thinner) the paint to make sure you don't get brush marks. You can sometimes get away without thinning at all, depending how old the paint is. With thicker base paints you need to thin a bit more to get to the same place.


    For dry brushing, you don't want to thin at all, and usually want to pull some of the liquid out of the paint before you apply paint to model.

    Thanks, I'm having far more success now.

  12. I have a pathfinder red dragon that I am painting. My plan was to basecoat it in a dark dull red and then layer lighter shades onto the scales. What I am finding though is that the paint I apply flows into the recesses and off the raised areas... which is having the opposite of the desired effect. I have been thinning my paints about 2:1 with a water/retardant mix... am I maybe still thinning them too much?


    I am also having difficulties with my drybrushing. Is it important that drybrushing paint be unthinned? I'm sure I had an easier time when I was a kid working with the citadel paints (maybe because back then I didn't thin them?).

  13. My local gaming store here has a bunch of reaper paints and minis in stock (surprised me because the Reaper website doesn't have them listed, though maybe they are no longer receiving new stock?). The paints look pretty old though. There are a few metallics I am interested in but they seem to have completely separated into a plug of pigment in a yellow fluid. Will these be salvageable? I've seen previous discussions about rescuing old paint but it seems like metallics are in some way different to normal paint.

  14. I always hear Blood Bowl has a strong following but many of the stores I've been to have never even heard of it (sans the current game store we go to because he is a GW enthusiast)...I usually have to explain it to ppl.


    This seems pretty big to me, but I don't have any frame of reference for how many events other games typically have.


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