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GodOfCheese

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Posts posted by GodOfCheese

  1. On 7/21/2020 at 11:41 PM, Glitterwolf said:

    As for resin, I use the Greenstuffworld UV Resin.

    Pour the bottle, let dry in the sun or under an UV light for half an hour.

    Done and done..

     

     

    Oh wow, that sounds a ton better than the six-hour cure time I had with my resin.  I'm thinking of some other watery stuff so I will check that out!

     

    On 7/22/2020 at 1:16 AM, Dan S said:

    Can I ask what you used to contain the resin?  I always find round bases tricky to seal (I have some round containment moulds that perfectly fit most standard sized bases, but they are only a cm deep). 

     

    I wrapped the base in wide painter's tape, which I don't recommend at all.  I figured that the outward pressure from the resin would more or less maintain the cylindrical shape. It turns out that this is only true for the shallowest part of the pour though (you can see that it's not circular toward the top... it kind of distorts off to one side).  The tape came off really easily, but it really lent itself to stippling along the curved surface.  I think I was sanding and polishing it for almost a week, and the base still smells of auto polish (why the bottom is still unpainted-- I don't think the paint will stick to it yet).

     

    On 7/22/2020 at 1:16 AM, Dan S said:

    I'm certainly no expert, but the best way I have found to eliminate all the bubbles is to do multiple shallow pours over time, rather than a single big deep pour.  After each layer I run a jet flame lighter over the surface which will pop any bubbles quickly and easily (You typically have to do this 2-3 times over the course of the first hour after each pour, as some of the bubbles rise very slowly).  It takes a bit longer, but is often worth the extra effort.

     

    I had read that deep pours can also cause cracking, but I missed the part about pouring slowly :-(  This guy was like six pours over several days (I'm sure FamilyOfCheese was getting quite sick of hearing alarms go off to tell me to go pour the next layer), but I was probably pouring too fast or not mixing long enough.  

     

    On 7/22/2020 at 1:16 AM, Dan S said:

    I've also heard that pouring from height works, but I'm not that brave, I know I'd get it everywhere!

     

    Oooh, if I'd known that I'd have tried it -- this base was so wide that I really would not have to worry about spilling.  Next base will be small though so it'll be a while before I can take this advice! :-)

     

    On 7/22/2020 at 1:16 AM, Dan S said:

    I am not familiar with water effects, or why it would obscure the rest of your shark.  But I like to use a product called clearfix (If you can get hold of it, its a UK adhiesive that comes in a massive tube that requires a caulking gun), mixed with a little isopropyl alchohol it can be brushed onto the surface of your resin to produce waves and ripples.  As it starts to dry it can be manipulated without losing its shape, making it easy to create waves and ripples.  It is also 100% clear.  LukeAPS has quite an in depth youtube video on using the stuff which I am sure I could track down if it is of interest to you. 

     

    My assumption for water effects was that creating ripples in the water would bend surface light (like real water does).  This would distort the view from the top down, which is currently crystal clear.  I'd have been okay with that if the view from the sides wasn't also distorted.

     

    Next time I'll try to do this with a rectangular base, so the side-viewing angles are more visible, and the view from the top can be waves or ripples without fear of distortion.  I'm not brave enough to try it on this model yet :-)

     

    On 7/22/2020 at 1:16 AM, Dan S said:

    Here is a river I did a few months back, using the stuff to create little waves where from the down hill stream hits the river, as well as the ripples coming off the reeds to give the impression of flowing water.IMG_1756.thumb.JPG.01e55ffbbf63af4e3b8e060cd40fa11c.JPG

     

    This is gorgeous!  I'll definitely try to hunt down that video.  I really want to do some churning water effects with my minis.  

     

    On 7/22/2020 at 3:37 AM, Peithetairos said:

    I think the underwater base looks great. The few bubbles work in your favour. Who says the don't come from life in the corals. The small shells really add to it and the shark looks suitably decomposed. I think adding some fish might have been a nice touch, but that would have required multiple pours.

     

    Thanks!  I wanted to do fish, but couldn't think of a way to get them to sit upright in the resin. They seemed like they'd just flop over and look weird.  For larger things (like the shark) I can suspend them by a fin, then remove the suspension on the next pour when the model is safely trapped in resin, but little things are harder :-(

    • Like 1
  2. On 7/22/2020 at 2:29 AM, Peithetairos said:

    Lovely stuff. Really like the variety and complexity of hues you incorporated into his garments. The OSL works really well, too. The back of his cloak could be enhanced with a bit more definition or contrast, but not necessarily being much brighter.

     

    Otherwise the base is awesome, great sense of place and derelict atmosphere. If possible, I would work the staircase more into the ground texture. Right now it sits more on top of it. Another idea would be vegetation or ivy, to add a bit of green to the mix.

     

    Thanks!  I was kind of struggling with staircase-to-ground transition.  I thought about putting some cotton "fog" around the base, but cotton is so fragile that I would worry it would become unusable for gameplay.  Vegetation sounds good though... I might try that if I can find/make some flock that doesn't detract from the whole washed-out effect prevalent in the rest of it :-)

  3. I love it!  The colors are so brilliant!

     

    I'm actually painting this right now, and am torn between painting it a huge snake and painting it as a huge statue of a snake.  

    Did you have trouble making the freehand details symmetrical on yours?  

  4. Oh, even with heavy polyurethaning, the foam is still fragile. I'm just hoping that the wooden base will be enough to keep the mini safe if it's ever used in a game.  

     

    Until then, it'll be safely tucked away in a look-but-don't-touch location.  :-)

    • Like 1
  5. On 3/26/2020 at 7:05 PM, SirLancelittle said:

    I'm very impressed by the base. How did you manage such a thick base with such great texture?

     

    Thank you!

    The terrain part of the base is 3/4" pink insulation foam leftover from a remodel long ago.  The wooden base is a circle cut from scrap oak, stained and sealed.  I never throw away junk like that. :-)

    1. I scratched it more or less randomly with a box cutter for about twenty minutes at different angles so that it took lots of notches out-- especially from the edges.
    2. Once I was reasonably satisfied with the scratching, I cut out holes for the dragon's feet and test-fit it as tightly as I could.
    3. Coated the upper surface with white glue, then poured sand onto it.  I did this a couple of times to get it to pile a bit.  I also put some glue into the deep spots and pushed sand into those.  When done, I poured the sand off and knocked away anything loose.
    4. Glued aquarium rocks to strategic locations
    5. Glued some sand to the aquarium rocks to serve as lichens
    6. When utterly dry, spray painted it black. Because canned spray paint propellant can melt the foam, I used my HVLP spray gun on lowest pressure to deliver craft acrylic paint.  Even still, the gun tries to blast the foam away, so this little task was more adventurous than strictly required...
    7. Once dry, sprayed with polyurethane sealant.  The foam is easily dented, which ruins the paint even if it deforms back into shape... it's not as resilient as bones. :-)

    The foam terrain base, the wood base, and the sculpt are mated with white glue.
    I love making terrain.  I just wish I had reasons to do so more often :-)

    • Like 3
  6. 19 hours ago, LittleBluberry said:

    D'aw!  Who's a fierce mama bear!  ::D:

     

    I'm trying to paint a Bones Black bard, but so far I still like metal best for anything human sized. At least, if I want it to look good.  

     

    I have definitely noticed that the moldlines are less pronounced with metal, and I'm terrible at removing them so that's a big plus in my opinion :-)

    • Like 1
  7. 8 hours ago, Peithetairos said:

    Beautiful OSL. Both the lava and the spell effect look very convincing. I also love the skintone of the demon and his expressive slit eyes.

     

    The only suggestions I have is to make the centre of the blue spell "hotter", so almost pure white, to make it look more like an energy sphere.

     

    Thank you very much! 

     

    That's totally the area I was most struggling with-- the color on the spell effect.  The object itself is largely Blue Flame with drybrushing of various cyans.  I wanted to create a "heart" of the effect, like the hot part of a fire. 

     

    The problem (AFAICT) is that if the spell effect is a sphere (it isn't, but pretend), then I could paint the sphere's "center" as viewed from the front of the mini.  But then if I turn the mini in either direction, the "apparent center" moves, and what I painted now looks like a surface instead of the center.

     

    Is there a trick to making this look realistic on a three-dimensional object, but still be viewable from different angles?

     

     

     

    • Like 2
  8. 12 hours ago, Rigel said:

    A Scourge, perhaps, or a Plague? 

    Great work on this diverse crew!

     

    5 hours ago, Iridil said:

    Nice set - love the dark/earthy shading on the wraiths and the purply metallic armor on the undead lords

     

    Thanks!  I apologize for the bad pics-- they all came out SUPER DARK and some of them are hard to see.  Guess I shouldn't have just dumped them into the forum without processing.  ;-)

     

     

    • Like 3
  9. 5 hours ago, BrokenWolf668 said:

    Nice! Great minds think alike, I did the same with Avukavali.

    Thank you!   Yours is great too-- it makes me think about painting other snake-like creatures to resemble specific subspecies of snake... cobras are obvious, but might snake demons like Mariliths mimic dangerous snakes from the Prime Material Plane for added intimidation value...?  Hmmm....

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