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Loup_Garou_Gras

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About Loup_Garou_Gras

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    Mostly Harmless
  • Birthday 09/28/1970

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    The Piney Woods of Texas

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  1. Been busy with work so not had time to finish my plasticard experiments. But I was thinking about this point. With normal OSL it shows up better when applied to darker figures. So this should be the opposite, where I will need to choose a light color in order for the "black out" effect to be noticeable at its furthest most reaches correct? I plan on standard Grey/TMM for the armor, but what recommendations for a light color that would look evil?
  2. @MoebiusStrip I think that could work, will paint it up some passes and post pics. Thank you! @jonfreeman Forgot to post a pic. I think this mini lends itself well to this approach because of the positioning of the mace. It is the Deckard Nightveil Bonepander priest. Here is a link Here
  3. That is a good idea. Time to get some plasticard out and see how these ideas look. Plasticard seems to have become my friend of late. Thank you for the responses!
  4. @jonfreeman Gargs has it correct, trying to convey a sense of necrotic energy. I my mind I envision a black "glow", not in the sense of a black light effect. Instead of emitting a glow, I think of it as negating the surrounding light. My thinking behind adding the purple (or some other color) was to try and avoid the miniature just looking dirty as opposed to showing a magical effect.
  5. I am painting an evil cleric NPC for an upcoming campaign. He has a morningstar imbued with negative energy and I wanted to make it glow with negative energy. Was thinking about how to utilize OSL. Start with black and then blend to a purple? The spikes could be blended from black to purple tips. Where white light would normally fall on a character with OSL I could make it black, which would eliminate less color as the distance from the mace increases? I thought I saw a post in this forum about this topic, but my searches yielded nothing. Any advice appreciated.
  6. Was trying to choose colors to try the split palette, looking for suggestions that my be better. For reds I was thinking Lava Orange and Violet Red. For yellows Sun Yellow and Lemon Yellow, although I wonder if the Lemon yellow is green enough. For blues I chose Ultramarine blue and Marine teal. Are these colors decent choices with good saturation? I confuse value and saturation I think, so darker colors throw me off in terms of comparing relative intensities.
  7. As always, thanks for the replies! Everyone here is always so helpful. I am painting a Bugbear with a yellow coat. I was thinking a desaturated "purple" brown would contrast against the yellow without standing out. I could wash the leather with a purple wash to shade the recesses and highlight with either RMS Leather Brown or Oiled Leather (judiciously) to pick out the high points. I say this in trying to refine my approach to leather, using desaturated colors of a complimentary hue, to try and create contrast between areas, without necessarily bringing attention to the leather bags, belts, straps, etc.
  8. At the basic level, are browns merely warm neutrals and greys cool neutrals? Or am I guilty of oversimplification? I am guessing you can cool down a brown, for instance, but at some point does it become more of a grey? The reason I ask is that I am still struggling to achieve a look that I like when painting figures with a lot of leather. I have experimented with taking Oiled leather and mixing in the various "Clear" colors from the MSP line. It seems that if I use enough restraint so that the Oiled Leather doesn't start to overtly read as the Clear color, I could use that to generate color contrast in the various leathers on the mini. But I am stuck on the idea that leather has to be some form of brown. I know that there are many different colors of leather, but my worry is that if I paint it too saturated with the suggested color that the item in question wont read as "leather" to the viewer. Another way of asking the question, I can see browns that obviously have a hue shifted more Red, Orange or Brown. And Greys that are shifted more Blue, purple or green. But are there Blue, Green, or Purple browns? or are they really grey? And are there Red, Orange, or Yellow greys, or are they really brown? Or am I really just overthinking it?
  9. The reason for my questions with this is that I have been using Bones miniatures to practice on after viewing the Jeremie Bonament videos. What I have hit upon that seems to work well for me is a mixture of 2 drops Folk art glass and tile medium + 2 drops of water + 1 drop of brown liner. The brown liner allows me to confirm that an area has been primed, and thinning the medium keeps it from being too goopy. The liner also helps me to pick out details. I have tested thinned paints to a moderate glaze consistency and they do not bead up at all on this combo. I have experimented with using both thinned and unthinned acrylic medium, but I struggled to see if an area was adequately covered. I guess I cold have added brown liner to diluted medium as well, and this would likely be a less expensive option to the Folk Art medium.
  10. Ugh. Thank you for your response. Luckily I will be in Dallas/Denton on Monday and can rectify my mistake.
  11. Quick question, do all colors of the Reaper Inks adhere to the original bones material as well as the brown ink color? And when using the inks in this capacity can you use a very light coat, or should one apply it in a heavy fashion? I have also purchased some Folk Art Glass and Tile Medium, and am experimenting with it, but was wondering if any of you have a preference for the Folk Art Medium over the inks?
  12. @Wren That is correct, I feel that at the age of *almost* 50 I should be able to visualize color better than I am able. That being said, down the road I would love to be able to utilize a limited pallet to paint interesting figures. So there are two purposes to my color education! The video with Anne was very helpful. I have been using the some of the clear colors but the lack coverage was concerning. But I understand why and now how to correct it! I have also taken her recommendations for other colors including the browns on board. I will be placing an order soon lol. Thanks again to everyone for their suggestions and advice, as always a wealth of information on these forums.
  13. As always, you guys are a great source of information! Thank you for all of your responses. I will most definitely check out the videos you recommended. @Al Capwn, I watched the videos you recommended, they are phenomenal! It really breaks down the color mixing process into a very easy process. Thanks again for the recommendation.
  14. So , more complicated than I thought. I may be better off buying the colors that appeal to me or I need. Thank you for the reply.
  15. @Doug SundsethThank you for the reply! @TGP , poorly worded question, what I should have said is that I was not wanting the intermediary (?) colors. If that is the correct term for the Yellow-Orange, Red-Orange, Red-Violet etc. type colors. The reason for this is that I have a hard time seeing elements of color within a color. For instance, some of the shifted neutrals, I struggle to see the blue/red/green etc. aspect unless it is pointed out to me. I hope that by mixing colors myself that I will be able to better visualize the subtleties.
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