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Everything posted by Loup_Garou_Gras

  1. Thank you so much! Joined her Patreon and Bird with a Brush as well! You guys have been so generous with advice/help, really appreciate it!
  2. After reading a couple of the more recent threads, I was wondering if there is a document summarizing the intended (and unintended) uses of some of the paints. An example would be Samurai Jack's response in a post regarding the intent that Pearl White was for thinning (or is it highlighting?) the metallic colors without them separating. The Clear colors are meant for glazing and reintroducing hue to a mini or to mix with other colors. Unintended uses such as using Brown Liner as a "primer" for Bones would be another example. I was wondering if there was an intent behind the Brill
  3. Been busy with work so not had time to finish my plasticard experiments. But I was thinking about this point. With normal OSL it shows up better when applied to darker figures. So this should be the opposite, where I will need to choose a light color in order for the "black out" effect to be noticeable at its furthest most reaches correct? I plan on standard Grey/TMM for the armor, but what recommendations for a light color that would look evil?
  4. @MoebiusStrip I think that could work, will paint it up some passes and post pics. Thank you! @jonfreeman Forgot to post a pic. I think this mini lends itself well to this approach because of the positioning of the mace. It is the Deckard Nightveil Bonepander priest. Here is a link Here
  5. That is a good idea. Time to get some plasticard out and see how these ideas look. Plasticard seems to have become my friend of late. Thank you for the responses!
  6. @jonfreeman Gargs has it correct, trying to convey a sense of necrotic energy. I my mind I envision a black "glow", not in the sense of a black light effect. Instead of emitting a glow, I think of it as negating the surrounding light. My thinking behind adding the purple (or some other color) was to try and avoid the miniature just looking dirty as opposed to showing a magical effect.
  7. I am painting an evil cleric NPC for an upcoming campaign. He has a morningstar imbued with negative energy and I wanted to make it glow with negative energy. Was thinking about how to utilize OSL. Start with black and then blend to a purple? The spikes could be blended from black to purple tips. Where white light would normally fall on a character with OSL I could make it black, which would eliminate less color as the distance from the mace increases? I thought I saw a post in this forum about this topic, but my searches yielded nothing. Any advice appreciated.
  8. Was trying to choose colors to try the split palette, looking for suggestions that my be better. For reds I was thinking Lava Orange and Violet Red. For yellows Sun Yellow and Lemon Yellow, although I wonder if the Lemon yellow is green enough. For blues I chose Ultramarine blue and Marine teal. Are these colors decent choices with good saturation? I confuse value and saturation I think, so darker colors throw me off in terms of comparing relative intensities.
  9. As always, thanks for the replies! Everyone here is always so helpful. I am painting a Bugbear with a yellow coat. I was thinking a desaturated "purple" brown would contrast against the yellow without standing out. I could wash the leather with a purple wash to shade the recesses and highlight with either RMS Leather Brown or Oiled Leather (judiciously) to pick out the high points. I say this in trying to refine my approach to leather, using desaturated colors of a complimentary hue, to try and create contrast between areas, without necessarily bringing attention t
  10. At the basic level, are browns merely warm neutrals and greys cool neutrals? Or am I guilty of oversimplification? I am guessing you can cool down a brown, for instance, but at some point does it become more of a grey? The reason I ask is that I am still struggling to achieve a look that I like when painting figures with a lot of leather. I have experimented with taking Oiled leather and mixing in the various "Clear" colors from the MSP line. It seems that if I use enough restraint so that the Oiled Leather doesn't start to overtly read as the Clear color, I could use that to generate color
  11. The reason for my questions with this is that I have been using Bones miniatures to practice on after viewing the Jeremie Bonament videos. What I have hit upon that seems to work well for me is a mixture of 2 drops Folk art glass and tile medium + 2 drops of water + 1 drop of brown liner. The brown liner allows me to confirm that an area has been primed, and thinning the medium keeps it from being too goopy. The liner also helps me to pick out details. I have tested thinned paints to a moderate glaze consistency and they do not bead up at all on this combo. I have experimented with using b
  12. Ugh. Thank you for your response. Luckily I will be in Dallas/Denton on Monday and can rectify my mistake.
  13. Quick question, do all colors of the Reaper Inks adhere to the original bones material as well as the brown ink color? And when using the inks in this capacity can you use a very light coat, or should one apply it in a heavy fashion? I have also purchased some Folk Art Glass and Tile Medium, and am experimenting with it, but was wondering if any of you have a preference for the Folk Art Medium over the inks?
  14. @Wren That is correct, I feel that at the age of *almost* 50 I should be able to visualize color better than I am able. That being said, down the road I would love to be able to utilize a limited pallet to paint interesting figures. So there are two purposes to my color education! The video with Anne was very helpful. I have been using the some of the clear colors but the lack coverage was concerning. But I understand why and now how to correct it! I have also taken her recommendations for other colors including the browns on board. I will be placing an order soon lol. Thanks
  15. As always, you guys are a great source of information! Thank you for all of your responses. I will most definitely check out the videos you recommended. @Al Capwn, I watched the videos you recommended, they are phenomenal! It really breaks down the color mixing process into a very easy process. Thanks again for the recommendation.
  16. So , more complicated than I thought. I may be better off buying the colors that appeal to me or I need. Thank you for the reply.
  17. @Doug SundsethThank you for the reply! @TGP , poorly worded question, what I should have said is that I was not wanting the intermediary (?) colors. If that is the correct term for the Yellow-Orange, Red-Orange, Red-Violet etc. type colors. The reason for this is that I have a hard time seeing elements of color within a color. For instance, some of the shifted neutrals, I struggle to see the blue/red/green etc. aspect unless it is pointed out to me. I hope that by mixing colors myself that I will be able to better visualize the subtleties.
  18. Hi all, Was hoping to get some recommendations for which Reaper paints would best represent the basic colors around the edge of a painting wheel. I am trying to understand how to mix paints/colors better and I would like to purchase the colors truest to their hue. I have held my color wheel up against the colors on the website but it has done my brain in trying to decide which ones are the best choice lol. I will gladly take recommendations in both the MSP line and the Bones line if you have them! To be more specific, I am asking for recommendations for primary and secondary colors, b
  19. Sorry about my clumsy wording but your answer helped. Thanks again for all of the responses!
  20. LOL I thought about this when I posted Pingo, thankfully CashWiley clarified for me. Yes more of a gritty and desaturated look. I was actually going to ask about desaturating colors and how to approach it. The figure CashWiley posted on the right is till amazing, but I really would like the look achieved on the left for my tabletop games. And it gets a little confusing when looking through tutorials at times, maybe because the better painters employ a bit of both? With respect to how to handle metallics, that did create some of the confusion as I saw that NMM seemed to be develo
  21. As always thanks for the feedback. Will make a decision on which to try and will post pictures for more feedback/criticism/suggestions. I have one more ogre to paint so will apply the lessons learned. Oh, and in an attempt to avoid thread necromancy, Pingo if I could ask for clarification one something in an old post of mine? You mentioned using dark blue or violet mixed with the base color for shadowing cooler colors and also mentioned using brown for shading warm colors. Do you also mix the brown with the base as per shading the cooler colors?
  22. Good evening all. I have decided that I would like to develop a more realistic painting style, as opposed to the more "cartoony" appearing painting styles. Are there any instructional videos or books that any of you would recommend that teach this style? I am also confused about what is meant when one references the European style of miniature painting. Are they considered as going for a more realistic appearance? What might the actual difference be between the European and American styles?
  23. Painted this ogre, and mixed colors for leather and skin that were too similar in my estimation. I am humbly asking for advice on the best way to increase the contrast between the two. I started applying yellow highlights to the skin, but it will be too subtle, I think. I am open to all suggestions, critiques, and ideas. Thanks in advance!
  24. So the left most was glazed with white, Middle glazed with yellow and the right most stripe stippled with yellow. What is interesting to me is that glazing with white seemed to bring out the blue?
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