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Everything posted by Errex

  1. Have you seen them phisically?. From their own sales blurb, the manufacturer claims to provide ink consistence with vallejo covering power, but so far, I have not known of anyone proving them right or wrong.
  2. I'm with you, Aeon. I had the chance to see in the "flesh" one of the mentioned Jade minis. It is not bad certainly, but the unpainted sculpt is less than thrilling (kinda the same things happens with the Celtos Gael chicks, but we all know how stunning they can be once painted). Still, I will pick one or two the next time I go to my LGS if there are no Klocke sculpts at hand.
  3. I feel for you, bro. On the other hand, Isn't it kinda cool to know your painting skills have reached the point where people will brave a beating and/or pressing of charges to get ahold of you painted minis?. But yeah, all of us could go withouth such encouragement...
  4. Reapers browns and greens are excellent. Texture wise, they are thicker than GW's, but they can be thinned down to taste, and have good covering properties.
  5. Speaking of elves, I'd like to see savage elves that are similar looking to those in the Magic: the Gathering cards. Not that I'm suggesting Reaper rip-off WotC IP, but I am sure something could be done without infringing it?
  6. Agreed. Thing is, sometimes there are persons that seem just too eager to get into NMM, while their skill level still lacks the maturity for it.
  7. Shading and highlighting, say, a cloak or a bare leg usually don't require too great a contrast , or too smooth a blend to look good, let alone "real". NMM and sourcelighting , on the other hand, nee to be very dramatic, to convey the very nature of light hitting and reflecting from a surface. Thay also need to be extremely smooth blended to fool the viewer into thinking hes seeing a flaming sword instead of a psychedelic glob of painted metal.
  8. Yes, that is pretty much it, in broad strokes. The thing with competent NMM is that the gradients must be placed in a way that makes sense, and also looks good. To echo Enchantra here, to get any good at NMM you have to: 1.-Master shading and highlighting 2.- Master smooth gradients and blends 3.- Observe and understand how light reflects on metallic surfaces in real life. Once you have these three down, then you can experiment and get creative about how you apply the technique.
  9. So, after reading all the posts, the answer is simple. Don't use simple yellows. Instead use yellowish browns. People actually never has yellow hair, unless dyed.
  10. Pelikan makes white ink. Search for it in the calligraphy sections of art supplies stores. I have been using it a lot lately, and works just fine either as a wash or as a glaze, depending on how many water I add to it.
  11. Broccoli bases I attach to soda caps with a drop of superglue. Most of the time, I clip the tabs and pin my minis to stick them to a large cork stopper. Works fine for humanoid sized minis. Real large models usually require special rigs to hold.
  12. Those are impressive minis. My favorite is Arianna, but all of them have excellent details each.
  13. Brake fluid. Works everytime, and doesn't eat the plastic.
  14. If it is other than rubber, chances are acetone is likely to eat through it. If is is like the clear plastic flying bases, it will definitely dissolve if dipped in acetone. About the only types of plastic you can use acetone safely, are rubber and the plastic they make the green army men from. Most everything else reacts one way or the other with acetone.
  15. Just for the record: I have left the figures in acetone for almost 36 hrs. They DO soften quite a bit, but otherwise, they don't melt or loose form. Leaving them out in the sun for a few hours will normally harden them back, since the heat causes the absorbed acetone to evaporate faster. Wait until the figure is rigid enough before atempting any flash/mold line removal. Trying to remove mold lines when the figure is soft is dificult, and often will produce pitted surfaces on the mini.
  16. Fact is, if you have good brush control, to begin with, you can certainly use the series 7 brushes as well as any other brand. About the only real difference you may notice is when you had been using craft brushes before getting a decent brush.
  17. Acetone, a.k.a Nail Varnish Remover. Works like a charm, even on the type of paint they use on Heroclix. You may want to remove the figure from the dial first, since the acetone will dissolve that type of plastic. Use an extremely sharp blade for this, and excercise the utmost care. Then, just drop the figure in a jar with lid into the acetone and leave it there for a couple hours (overnight works best), and then scrub the paint with an old toothbrush. You may need to re-dunk the mini, since acetone evaporates so fast, the paint dryes again almost before you have finished the scrubbing.
  18. Ok, look at it this way. GW has been doing power armor for almost 20 years. In that time, they have gone from the cheesy fake-astronaut look, to the StarWarsStormtrooper-ish look. And that's only regarding their space marines. If you take into account their other lines, such as Imperial Guard or Eldars, they have pretty much covered and/or borrowed from pretty much all stylings of power armor. So, it is gonna be unavoidable that whatever design they come up for the Starship troopers suits, there are going to be similarities with something GW already did. This is not a bad thing, mind you, but anybody holding his/her breath waiting for a truly original design are bound to be disapointed.
  19. The movie was competently done, but certainly the book was far superior, in concept. It always bothered me than whenever asked about the absence of the power suits in the movie, the fx guys/producers/director used to answer that it was either the suits, or the pretty bugs, since technology/money at the time didn't allow them to have both. I guess it's gonna be hard to come up with a design for the suits that doesn't ressemble the GW style, since they have been at it for a real long time.
  20. Oh, well, yeah, that is possible. That is why I give my minis a pretty heavy coat of gloss varnish, and then apply the dull cote. That way, even if I wanted to keep going at a mini, psycologically it isn't just the same, and the drive to keep smearing paint on it subsides. Sometimes
  21. Whiz, you better get you some gloves and protective goggles. I'm not kidding.
  22. Hum, well, it also helps if you start with a finished vision in your mind of what you want to achieve, and stop when the mini looks as close to that vision as technically possible. That may sound a bit rigid, but more often than not, some extra creative ideas would kick you right in the shin in the middle of a subtly blended cloak, and then you just have to figure out how to incorporate that into your painting. I am truly grateful to have learned to use sealers, since unsealed minis are just an open invitation to go back and ruin them, adding layer after layer of paint.
  23. Yes, you have to use arcs, instead of straight lines. Take the shoulderpads on this space marine as an example: Although there are some line highlights along the edges between the plate and the trim, you can see there is a slight gradient going radially centered at the top of the shoulderpad, towards the lower edge of the piece. You need to practice to get the look you want, and using not too dramatic gradients works fairly well to determine the direction light is hitting.
  24. Hmm. Tough one, Randy. I would paint the brown/yellow first, then add the green markings, and then try and blend them using yellow as the tying hue of it all. Of course, I'm not talking of using pure yellow, more like, say, you get your gradients from brownish to white/bone for the highlights, and then blend from the bone to the green. Hope this makes sense.
  25. I normally don't do washes. If I absolutely HAVE to, then I rather use ink than paint. And the skimmed milk consistency should be the consistency of your regular paint, not that of the washes. Washes have to be as fluid as water, maybe a little less, but not near anywhere skimmed milk.
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