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Errex

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Everything posted by Errex

  1. Funny, isn't it?, people will always pick a mini painted in NMM and automatically hold it in a way the light reflections seem more natural. Talk about Ultimate Control. Almost sounds like a D&D skill for a prestige class. About the only instances where NMM doesn't quite work is when you have conflicting reflections within the same angle of view. Even if the gradients are subtle, and lovely done, they left the viewer with a sense of "wrongness" that is hard to identify.
  2. I agree. NMM is a far stylized technique, which can be infuriating at times, requires a lot of patience and time to get done right. I would say it is a direct offspring from advanced gradient techniques, achieved by either wet blending or layering. Still, it is the way I have been doing thing lately. Sometimes works, sometimes is a bit off, but since I paint for myself, I can afford to spend as much time as I want on a single mini.
  3. Speaking of burns. Nothing compares to the delicate touch of a slight spray of molten lead droplets accross your skin. Some years back, when I was into casting my own minis, I used plaster molds. On my first try, the molds were not dry enough, so, when I poured the lead, there was this instant hiss and a cloud of vapor out of the mold vents I had carved. Got two or three droplets of lead on my right hand and clothes, and that's an experience not easily forgotten.
  4. OK, picture this. If you take some ink, apply a small amount of water, and smear it on a mini with a brush. Even if you covered the entire area, the ink will run into the recesses and lower points of the surface you applied it to. This is called a wash. Now, take again some ink, add a bit of water, and then add a bit of acryllic the same hue of the ink (or close enough). Smear the mixture again over a mini, and what you get is a colored, semitransparent film all over the painting surface. It may also run into the recesses and lower points of the painting area, but for the most part the coloring effect is evident rather uniformly. This is what we call a glaze. Most painters use acryllics to mix their own glazes/washes. I prefer working with inks because they require less water to thin, and still give a more intense shade than paint thinned to the same consistency.
  5. Geez, and to think that it took me quite a while to accept miniatures made of plastic, or with plastic parts, and here you are!, All talking about using DEAD TISSUE (that used to be alive), as miniature apt material. Tsk, tsk.
  6. Yeah, you are probably right, Damon. It is just that I grow weary of the overall graininess I find in ProPaints, and also dislike to have to mix something else into my paints to make them more manageable. After all, most of the thickness problems found in the GW line of paints stem mostly from the poor seal the paint pots themselves have. I still prefer the old, flip-top ones, and as they run out, I use the empty pots to pour my newer colors.
  7. You know, I'll probably be burned at a stake for writing this, but reading about the need to use additives in your paints and in view of my experiences with Citadel paints and ProPaints (and despite acknowledging GW is Eeeevil), they still pretty much make the best paints out there. They are very expensive and their pots are the worst design since the Edsel, but there's really nothing that I know of that comes close to their flow properties, and coverage in general. I just hope that the new line of Reaper paints can finally replace them...
  8. Uh, well, I just got a 00 and a 000 series 7 brushes, both for under $ 25USD ($ 11 the 000, and about $12 for the 00). I haven't tried them yet, but they sure do look nice.
  9. I use 2-3 desk lamps, all fitted with daylight bulbs. I bring up the third lamp on those really difficult minis that insist on coming out too dark, no matter what I do.
  10. Wow!, I love that mini, Frank. The skin tone is perfect for the character. This is an old Citadel mini, isn't it?
  11. Shadow elves?. Mmm. I'd start with Reaper's Ice Blue, and from there highlight all the way up to white. If need be, I'd shade the eyesockets with a very thin blue glaze.
  12. Well, I used Frontpage for my own site. As pointed out, you don't really learn anything useful, but it's fairly easy to use. If you are not too keen on coding the site yourself, I'd recommend it, but, otherwise, the HTML for Dummies book is really a good investment.
  13. For asiatic complexions, I pretty much use a bone-like hue. Works pretty well for me. Another different, more suntaned shade can be obtained adding a bit more orange to the basic flesh color.
  14. Seems that spot checking is the primary use of the magnifier glass. Me, I'm used to take WIP pictures, and do the checking later on the computer, but then, that's me.
  15. I already have one of those desk lamps with magnifier glass. The label states that the bulb must not exceed 60 Watts, so that's what I use, a 60 Watt daylight bulb. I find the design of the lamp to be less efficient than a regular desk lamp, since the whole screen/magnifier combo is indeed less bright than a regular hooded desk lamp. I never really use the glass either, since it messes my depht perception, and I find it tiresome after a while. If you already have a regular desk lamp, I'd suggest to get another one instead of the magnifying one. You can never have enough light, but unless you enjoy headaches, I wouldn't recomend a magnifyer.
  16. Yep, that's a deep stare this guy has. Zaphod has this technique where he paints the face first, as to get that particular details out of the way and be able to concentrate on the rest of the mini. Me, I like to leave the face for the last, but in this particular stance, I did the face just after color blocking the rest of the mini. First, the eyes, and then the rest of the face. Sadly there is no special method I used for this guy's eyes, other than working slowly, make sure the paint is thin, but without having too much of it on the brush.
  17. I did walk through a glass windoor once. I had one of my cats in my arms, and it didn't like the experience one bit.
  18. Saruman the Multi Colored?, or Joseph's Technicolor Dreamcoat?. Maybe some of the pearlescent stuff ZaPhOd has used on occasion...
  19. What is it you want?, Anne doing a series of readily downloadable vids on every major technique involved in miniature's painting?. Or did I understand something different?
  20. I used oil paints for one of my oldest models, a self sculpted and casted figure depicting Raistlin, from Dragonlance. Back then, I remember I shaded everything with Raw Umber, wich, as you can guess, is not the best way to go about it. Anyways, I remember it was not an unpleasant experience (although yes, it took forever to dry), and I think that were I to have some of my old oil paint tubes still around, I'd certainly give them a try, now that I know a bit better than to just mix white and black into my colors for lightening and darkening.
  21. Ok, There are a lot of neat colors in any paint line, but if you are really into a short budget, it doesn't mean you should limit your color pallette. All the hues you can thin of can be derived from mixing these primary colors : 1.-White 2.-Black 3.-Red 4.- Lemony Yellow 5.- Ultramarine Blue And 6.- Magenta. (really folks, there is just no way to have this one as a result of mixing any of the others.) The color wheels people mention on other posts does not only help you decide wich colors complement each other, but also illustrate wich basic colors have to be mixed to get a certain hue. So, I admit it is nice to have five different shades of brown to pick from, but if you don't have the luxury to afford the 60 bottle paint set, these should cover all your needs.
  22. Well, maybe a little tweak in the scale, not a whole resculpt or something like that. I actually think that their newer plastics pretty much look more interesting that the metal SM's they had just a few years back.
  23. Flat floor. Well, I'll just paint it grey or brown, and add minimal highlights to the very edges of the bricks/planks/whatever. For something a bit more elaborate, I'd go for some texturing like granite or marble, but, not much besides that. My previous post was in reference more to smooth surfaces than to truly flat ones, but I think it does work either way.
  24. What do tou mean by depht?, Like it was engraved or something?. Anyways, maybe the side shot is no the best I'd use for this but here goes: What I see of the headdress, looking from her back, is basically a spherical smooth surface.As such, I would have painted it pretty much the same as a Space Marine shoulder pad, that is, placing the highlight at the very top and do a smooth gradient being darker towards the bottom. Once I had the blue-spherical-thingie effect rigth where I want it, then I'd paint the golden stripes, placing the higlights on those pretty much to accentuate the curvature of the headdress. I'd say, that most flat surfaces, excluding fleshy thighs, can be done with gradients or blends, or, if you feel lucky, doing some freehanding. Fleshy thighs are indeed tricky, at least for minis that don't have exagerate muscles. Shadows and highlights need not be as dramatically different as in other parst of the body (wich sometimes leads to a pretty uninteresting look when painted, hence the utility in pasting some tattoowork on them), but need to convey a sense of roundness. Browsing through magazines with long legged models usually provides enough info on how to convey such effect (although it is a very distracting research work).
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