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Errex

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Everything posted by Errex

  1. Well, I have been using only water fpr cleaning my brushes, and they have held up pquite good. On average, a brush lasts me about 2-3 years, but then again, painting 6 minis a year doesn't seem to wear heavily on them.
  2. Things went like this. Several years ago, around the mid-80's, Toy Faire was held in New York and among the cool things on display, were this Mechas from Bandai from the popular Macross anime. Attending the Faire, were these guys, a dude named Weissman and another whose name I don't recall, and, chatting with some of the japanese reps for the toy company, and being avid Macross fans, asked the guy if it was OK if they used the mech designs for this little boardgame they were working on. From there, one could asume that the japanese rep didn't quite understood what was being asked , and so, the mechas you see in Robotech became the iconic pieces for this wacky game. Years later, as BTech became more mainstream (it took some time, since by the third edition of the game, they were still using Macross robots as pieces for the boxed set), someone may have pointed out to Bandai that people was making money using the designs for the series. From there on, FASA stopped using the Robotech mechas and started using their own designs. It is my understanding that an agreement was reached outside court, since FASA claimed that they were making money from selling the rules set, and that for practical purposes, people could have played the game using bottlecaps. Another thing to consider is that Bandai was just a licensee that made toys based on the series, but not the actual owner of the Mech designs.
  3. Mmm. Let's see. CAV is a game inspired by Battletech. As such, Reaper has done a great job drawing and improving over both BTech and Heavy Gear strong points. But... Battletech had no aliens. Part of what made the Battletech Universe so cool for me, was the fact that it was so different from the sci-fi cliches of the time. Governments and factions were strongly identified with Earth cultures, and gave it a WWII flavor to the whole conflict, wich, from a gamer point of view, was plain fun. And not a single alien in sight. So, if you want CAV line to be a sorta like GW's Tau, then include the reptus. If you want to keep CAV as a wargame where the artillery just coincidentally happens to come in the form of a huge walking machine, leave them out of the mix.
  4. Dunno about printer's ink, but I have seen Pelikan brand metallic inks over at Office Depot...
  5. Yeah, well, I'm not buying any more pewter until I manage to finish at least my non-GW stuff.
  6. Hey! Whatever happened to a miniature of an infantry sargeant, I remember seeing it sometime among the greens, but never saw the release of it. It is, I suspect, on the 25-28 mm range, same as that special edition General Whatchamacallit. You know which one I'm talking about, so, c'mon, tell!
  7. Will they still carry inside the small pewter skullz?. Those thingies are ultra cool
  8. Not exactly, but yes. I don't have a pic right now, but mine comes in a different, squared plastic bottle, with a stem rigth inside the top (I guess it is for filling up stylos or other tipes of pens. It does work dandy as a dropper). Also, I think the bottle you show is at least twice the capacity of mine, wich would account for the difference. EDIT : Betraying my lazy nature, I managed to snag the following pic of the aforementioned item. Image stolen right from Office Depot's site.
  9. I got my white ink from Hiperlumen, a arts supply store here in Mexico City. I have seen it also at Office Max and Office Depot, around the pens and pencils aisles. It is Pelikan brand white ink, wich is a german company so, my guess is it shouldn't be too hard for you to get.
  10. Gold over blue?, Mmm, well, I'd start tracing the design over the blue cloak with a darker blue, maybe a bit less dark than the deepest shade of blue on the area. This tracing needs not be very thin, or even too tidy, as it is there mostly to a) practice the design, and b) provide some shading... Next, I'd go over the dark blue design with thinned down white paint, or white ink, whatever is available. I, personally prefer the ink, since it has a very nice flow, and doesn't dry up as quickly while in the brush, but almost evaporates instantly when applied. This step does require you to have a fairly good brush control, but is no biggie, IMHO. Once the white is dry, Then I'd go over it again, this time with a golden yellow (I hate the lemony, acid yellows some people uses) . From there, you can pretty much add shading (use shades similar to GW's Vomit brown or snakebite leather) and highlighting (basically, add white, or use Reaper´s own buckskin and linen white) as you see fit. Hope this makes any sense.
  11. Stones and stick might shatter our bones, but.... Ow!, . Dang!, . Stop it! . That hurts!
  12. Oooh, yes. The Loss of the Innocence. It stings, Ain't it?
  13. Not me. I think I'll pass on this one this time. I'd rather get the expansions for Neverwinter Nights. Although, if along the road I bump into it in the bargain bin, I will probably pick it up.
  14. See?. That's the great thing about taking WIP shots. I like to take several pics of my minis at every stage, and then examine them on my 'puter. Then I go back and try to work the details. I just love digital photography.
  15. What about plaster, Glyn?. Cheap, easy to work with, and if you cover it with diluted PVA it can take paint pretty easily. You could make some plastiscene molds for rocks and stuff easy as pie. (The just-pull-out-of-the-box kind, of course)
  16. Sounds expensive. And you say you use it for small details?. What happens if applied to a larger area?. Does it dry smooth or not?
  17. Paint-on leaf?, How is it different from regular metallic paint?. I have fooled around a bit with regular foil, but so far hadn't gotten good results (my guess is the adhesive I'm using is not appropiate).
  18. So, PDF are a good idea for the tutorial stuff. Can we have our glossy, hardcover, coffee-table miniature's book now? ;)
  19. I think the moment you have two different lines, one PG and other rated R, then automatically you are asking for someone (in this case the folks at Reaper) to decide for you what qualifies as either of them. And even then, I can see people harassing Ron about the inclusion of a particular mini on any one of the lines. This is just a PC concern that has nothing to do with the production process, and might as well impinge heavily on the marketing of the figures. Case in point, the Warlord and DHL lines exist as venues to offer two different scales of minis to you, the customer. Doing an extra line just to put in there all the half-dressed ladies just doesn't make any sense.
  20. Two words. Who Cares? You like'em nudie pewter thingies?, Go get'em Reaper sees fit to produce 'em?, well, as long as they turn a profit and don't get on the bad side of the Nebraska Christian Association Against Evil Naked Pewter toys, good for them. May I remind you that even back in the days before telly, and radio and such, there were, for you'all peoples of western european ancestry, the so called fairy tales, wich in turn were derived from sources like the germanic Märchen tales, wich were, if anything, not too "fairy-like". In fact those were usually gory, violent tales of rape and pillage, often used to teach morals to the offspring and pass the long winters. So, trying to separate fantasy from strife and/or human sexuality is like brewing a non-alcoholic beer. I shudder at the thought. It's just not natural. Eeek. So, use your own criteria when painting/displaying/buying your minis. Stop asking for someone else to decide for you, and be responsible enough to monitor what your kids buy themselves. Your best bet there is to talk with the lil' ones and explain them things, so they don't grow up to be such repressed persons that blush at the sight of skintones painted over metal toys.
  21. Uh, Yes? :D Now seriously, you definitely have to place your brushstrokes depending of the effect you want to achieve. I suppose most of the time, one places the highlights following some very simple guidelines, like, determining wich surfaces appear to catch more light, the angle of reflection or some other aesthetic considerations. Later on, when you feel like trying very specific effects, like in light sourcing, you may also want to pay attention to the balance and compisition of your paint scheme.
  22. Ah, yessss. The Golden Moment. The instant you put your brush away and see the end result. Priceless, indeed. I agree, it is about the journey, not the destination. I am happier when I focus on the process of thinning and applying layer after layer of paint, that thinking about having another cool painted mini on a shelf. And even now, I find that once a mini is finished and photographed, I tend to forget about the actual physical model. All that remains is the joy of having painted it, and gazing at the picture posted somewhere over the internet.
  23. So, it seems the general idea is to have a "How To" book, akin to those painting guides published by GW. This could be printed as a paperback. I, for my part, would prefer a coffe table art book, loaded with painted images, maybe a bit of comment either by the author or the editor, and perhaps a small glossary of painting terms and techniques at the back. I'd want it to be hardcover, and printed on quality paper.
  24. Matte sealer. Do not use a can to the last ounce on minis. Use it from new to about half the can spent, and the rest save it for terrain pieces. The reason for this is that the sealer, especially the matte, starts acting funny when the can pressure is below half a can. Usually it'd come out glossier, or with too much particles, especially if you don't use to shake the can until your elbows hurt.
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