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Everything posted by Errex

  1. I do blue steel as follows: Deadly Nightshade Hideous Blue Ice Blue or Space Wolf Grey Skull White/white ink. As Glyn wrote, the idea is to get smooth gradients. That's pretty much it.
  2. Just got an e-mail from CMON Shop!. My book is on the way! Wheeee!!!! :laugh:
  3. Hey, that'd be quite an interesting craft, all by itself. Maybe even a whole new hobby, combining coin collecting and painting. ;)
  4. I'd go as far as to say that only recently (make that a couple of years), we have been exposed to really striking renditions of NMM in the 25-28 mm range of fantasy miniatures. Much to the chagrin of some, the GW school of painting had a lot to do with the current state of the hobby right now. I remember, many years ago, seeing a Blood angel Captain Tycho painted in NMM gold, and at the time, the painter, (Mark Bedford, IIRC), said that he used that approach because he felt the current metallic range of paints looked a bit to brownish for his taste. That was way back in 1992-93.
  5. what about a Mc D's?, those Lion King toys sure seem to have a good range of textures to practice on...
  6. Mmmm. I don't think that's such a good idea. You see, a Reaper mini costs about what?, 2.50-3.50 USD?. Now, taking into account the cost of the sculpey and the shipping charges, I think it'd be money better spent on getting a mini with the suitable texture I want to practice. And, the mini I can walk to a store and get right away, while I certainly loathe to wait for the mail to deliver stuff to me. Hate to be a spoilsport....
  7. That's a very interesting point, Crusoe. So, could we argue that the advent of quality metallic acrylics DID have a profound impact on the way the hobby developed, back in the 80's. I remember I had enamel metallics, back in those days, but they were gloppy, and always had to thin and shake them before even considering using them.
  8. Well, I say it's all NMM, and masterfully done, to boot. I remember Paintrix posted a metallic job shortly after a long batch of NMM minis (a Confrontation chick, IIRC), wich was also excellent, but as you can see, she prefered to keep doing NMM. Most people seem to overlook the simple fact that NMM is nothing more than the use of gradients to portray reflected light on metal-made items. Unless the painter has the skill to do gradients, there is no sense in tackling NMM. And even those skilled at subtle color transitions will require a lot of practice and observation to achieve convincing results. As pointed out, the technique is quite simple, but it's application is what makes a paintjob good or bad.
  9. Wait. Wouldn't that just leave the mini with gray hair?, I thought the salt and pepper look was more of a mostly dark hair, with a lot of white strands on it. I've seen several examples of the "Reed Richards/Lily Munster" hair coloration in minis, but I don't recall ever seeing an effective portrayal of the mature-but-not-quite-too-old look. Does anybody have an example?, Maybe a photo of people that has the coloration you need?
  10. Yes, I use it all the time, except for a couple unpainted, half melted plastics I tried spray primer on once. I pretty much apply the smelly primer thinned with water, to avoid the formation of bubbles, and usually a single layer, just enough to change the color of the pewter to light grey. I only reapply it on the spots I still can see the bare metal shine through, but I don't really look for an all white look. It is important to check there are no dust particles sticking to the primer while drying, but if I find the odd speck, I remove the particle with an X-acto blade, and then try to apply a new layer over the general area, just to smooth the surface. One advantege of the brush on primer is that it can be used to fill really small imperfections, and at some extent, even slight mold lines that might have escaped the cleaning process. As for being it time consuming, well, nothing is as quite time consuming as layering stuff, so, trust me, brushing primer is of no concern Also, since I always start from my darkest shade colors, painting over the grey/white primer coat is not too big an issue, either, since my highlight build up from an even, darker basecoat, but I can see that if you start from your middle tone, and then work your higlight/shading from there it can get messy.
  11. Why don't you just switch from spray primer to brush-on?. I normally use GW's smelly primer, but once I used diluted White On, and, in someplace someone said to use gesso.
  12. Seems I got to order mine on time!. The first time I placed my order, (it didn't got through), I had order number 450, and the second time, I got order number 800 +. Seems those books are flying fster that anticipated. and being that there will only be 1000 for the entire run, I don't mind to have to wait still for them to restock...
  13. Well, I normally pay attention to the number of dips I smear on my pallete of any given color, so, if I smear two brushfuls of blue , and another brushful of yellow, I always try to keep that ratio when the original mix dry out. It may not be an exact measurement, but since I work with very thin paints, it always seem to match the previous hue. One thing I try to avoid is mixing rather large quantities of pain in one go.
  14. Errex

    Photo advice

    No. Actually, if you use a mid to black grey, or black background, you'll have a better chance to show off your minis. If you use a white background, digital cameras, for some reason, tend to over-smart themselves, and run some adjustment routines that most of the time produce bad pics. What you have to check, is that the overall level of brightness of your background is similar to that of your model. No matter if the skin is black, in the case of the drow, but how does the overall color scheme come off. I'd say, take several shots, using different colored backgrounds and see what works best in postproduction.
  15. Actually, I made me one using some foamboard, a carboard tube, some corrugated cardboard, a small bag of marbles and some hotglue. I made it three tiered, but I think I should have added more space.
  16. Oh God!. That was the most deranged thing I've ever read here!. I just couldn't stop reading, and I think I actually heard the music and all!. :O Now, everyone here knows I'm a laughing freak. Thank you very much, Aryanun...
  17. Very interesting article there, Ary. I wonder if Reaper uses Britannia metal or real pewter. I'd hate so see my collection turn to dust before my eyes....
  18. So?, Take the plunge, already! Becoming proficient with a digital camera (even a mid-range, features wise), will make easier for you to see what do you really need.
  19. Sounds pretty good, Ary. But remember, the digital camera you have NOW, will always be more useful than the one you want to get LATER. Camera specs change almost every week. It would be a certainty to say that by the time you have gathered the $1500, another, snazzier camera will have hit the market. I'd say, get a decent camera, one that you would feel comfortable using, and later, if you want to upgrade, sell it and in the meantime save to make up for the difference.
  20. I agree with Glyn in his view of SE and chrome NMM. The thing to remember is that a painting technique, ANY technique, is not the end all- be all of a piece. Ultimately, what really shows the artistic merit of a piece is not the flawless use of a certain technique, but the overall composition and if it gets to elicit an emotional response on the viewer.
  21. Errex, can you share your methods of removing bases? Normally, I clip away as much of the broccoli base with a pair of wire cutters (these are the same as the GW clippers, but a lot cheaper if you get them from a normal hardware store), and then I file away the rest. Tabs are even simpler to remove, and this one of the reasons I like so much the Warlord minis.
  22. Indeed. My clippers won't cut through regular paperclip steel without getting a dent, so I reserve them for plastic and pewter only. To cut paperclips I use a regular nose pliers, the type that come bundled in most car toolkits.
  23. NMM is neat, and clean. It gives me more control over what are the best angles I want the viewer to look at a model. I have noticed that most people, when examining a miniature, tend to hold it in a way the face of the mini is towards them. I have noticed also, that when they pick up a mini done with NMM, they automatically hold it in a way it shows the best angle for the full NMM effect. (or, if you prefer, the angle the light would reflect were it done in regular metallics). Only, with NMM you can, as pointed by Anne, enhance the overall effect exactly in the way you want it to look. As in most things, NMM can be the most dramatic tool you can have on your repertoire, if done properly, but it also can turn out horribly if done wrong.
  24. Non Metallic Metal Greetings.
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