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Errex

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Everything posted by Errex

  1. Indeed. I still use this approach now and then. Still, for most Reapers, I go with the drop of superglue and soda bottle cap approach. Once painted, a single squeeze on the sides of the cap and the mini is released. Since lately I am removing tabs/broccoli bases from most of the minis I work with, I pin to their feet a couple of paperclip rods, and then stick them to a cork stopper I got from a bottle of candy (Hershey's Kisses, with almond bits, HMMMM). A cork tile should work fine , too, I guess, but wine corks are just too tipsy...
  2. Paint the barrels black or grey. Then paint the bolter's case either with enchanted blue or ultramarine blue. The eagle can go on white. Or, if you prefer a more codex-like look, paint the casings red, with a yellow/white eagle.
  3. If you are serious about making your own molds, check this site, it has a comprehensive How-To section and even if you don't order from them, you can apply the techniques with the material you could get locally. Smooth On
  4. Yes, it all boils down to brush control, using a fine brush, very thin paint/ink, practice on a sheet of paper and plain old luck seems to do it for me.
  5. Um, well, actually, you do all shading and highlighting BEFORE drawing the pattern on. Most pattern work is done either with inks or very thin paint, so, it is kinda translucent and thus it seems to be shaded when painted over the darkened surface and highlighted when painted over the brighter ones. There are some instances where you can accentuate selectively this effect on the pattern, depending on the complexity and the time you want to spend on it. And no, you can´t do it by drybrushing.
  6. Use glass beads. You can get them from pet stores, just look in the fish tank section. Geeks been using them for years as life counters for Magic:the Gathering too. First thing I do, with Reaper paints, is to fish out the tiny skulls and replace them with the tabs off the feet of my minis, but eventually I'll have to resort to my own glass counters.
  7. Well, I'd certainly not use a dremel for pining, since I'm fairly happy with the results I get from my pin vice, but sure thing a dremel would be the right tool for removing those awful broccoli bases from my DH figs.
  8. Here is a neat trick, and easy to do, too. I first paint the blade black, then, paint only the edge white. This all needs to be even coats of paint. Next, paint silver over both areas. You'll notice there is a difference between the white and black basecoated areas. Not exactly on topic, but it is a kinda neat effect.
  9. The matte varnish usually comes in spray cans. As far as I know, there is no matte sealer that comes in jars or as a paint-on media. Must be something to do with the spraying process. For paint-on matte sealer, I've read about people using diluted Elmer's glue, bu I have not tried it myself.
  10. Well, brass is even easier to work with, since it is somewhat softer than regular pins or paperclips. I have noticed that sometimes, when I cut the paperclips with my clippers, the edges of the cut are somewhat distorted, and sometimes this makes it a bit more difficult to insert into the hole in the mini, or to the base. Brass usually cuts cleaner, with almost no deformation to speak of.
  11. Check the distance you are spraying from. To me it sounds as if you are using the can maybe too close to the mini. Be wary, though, that if you exceed the recommended distance it may lead to the dreaded "white spray of death" finish.
  12. Here's a little bit of advice, for all the ones thinking about using layering: Do your gradients in only one direction at first. By this, I mean start with a base coat of either your darker color tone (The color of the shadow, if you will), or your brighter one (The highlight color, as it is). This way, you will only have to add one color to darken/brighten your painting area, and you'll be able to concentrate on getting smooth transitions. Say, for my Threvus I started the blue parts with a very dark blue, and added gradually small amounts of GW's Ice Blue until I got the effect I wanted. I find it easier to work this way than from a middle tone, and then having to do two gradients, one from mid to dark for shadow, and another from mid to bright for highlights. Later on, if you feel like it, you can experiment with the middle tone approach, using different brightening/darkening shades to get interesting results. (Like darkening with a warm color and highlighting to a cold color). Hope this makes any sense... :oo:
  13. Indeed, oils are great to work blends, but I'd rather stick to acryllics for detail work. What is all this talk about crock pots?, Do you heat the paint or do you put the painted mini in it?.
  14. When applied in humid conditions, matte sealer tends to produce a not too pleasant fogging effect. Also, using the spray at longer distances than recommended also causes the effect. In the first instance, it is caused by the interaction of water particles and the solvent in the can. The second occurrence happens because the spray begins to dry when still in transit, thus depositing a thin layer of semi congealed varnish scales.
  15. I hadn't done freehand in a while, but having just recently some of it on my latest project, I re-learned these tips: 1.-Use thin brushes with long bristles. Most art brushes I have are finely pointed, but have bristles about half as long as a GW fine detail brush. The longer bristles hold more paint/ink, and make less of a hassle working on extensive patterns. 2.-Use very thin paint or inks. Be ready to do a number of touch ups. Drawing patterns over curved surfaces can be tricky, and more often than not, you will need to go back several times to fix a slip up. If you use thinned paints, it will be easier to get a smooth finish after touching up. 3.- Since we are working with thin pigments, make sure that you don't overload your brush with paint, unless you intend to wash over your entire design. If that happens, don't panic and start over. 4.- If your pattern doesn't come out right, cheat your way out of the mess you got into. Doing a gradient usually helps to distract people from the fact your traces are not regular. :p
  16. Indeed. sometimes you just want to finish the thing off, in order to move to other projects. I find it that unless I seal them up, I might be tempted to go back to the same mini again and again, so, a coat or two of the old gloss/matte work wonder as a release mechanism. ;)
  17. 1.- Light yellow? 2.- Scab red basecoat, highlight imperial purple 3.- What picture? 4.-Basecoat vomit/bubonic brown. Add woodgrain with thinned down bleached bone/snakebite leather.
  18. Hey, I just tell my BF he can draw me whenever he wants to. He is an artist of a sort in his spare time, so I let him create a way :) Besides there are rewards to be reaped after he is done drawing... *ahem* I don't consider this giving away secrets. I consider it helping a few male souls who have lost their direction :laugh: Lady, some of us paint little pewter toys in lieu of having a relatioship with the opposite sex. Stop torturing ussss.
  19. Also, whenever possible, I usually trace the design onto the mini with a sharp, soft pointed pencil, so, I can go over it with a brush later on. this is especially helpful when dealing with swirly, random-looking patterns.
  20. Recently, I came across a pot of white ink. I use it, when highlighting white (start with a mid-grey basecoat), to build up the brightness of the piece. What I like about the stuff is that it is very fluid, has good coverage (as far as inks go), and is really easy to work with, as the drying time is a bit longer than regular diluted paints. Another advantage, is that since the pigment is so fine, you avoid chalkiness.
  21. Well, you could walk into a DIY store, like Home Mart or Home Depot, and ask in the plumbing supplies section. Odds are, you will find the material at a better price. I get mine at Wal Mart, so, it is not really that hard to find.
  22. Exactly, the number before is meant to indicate how many zeros a brush is, without having to actually engrave all those numbers in the handle.
  23. Well, most brush manufacturers number their brushes to standarize size. This way, whenever you go and buy a size 2 round brush, you can be pretty sure it is going to be the same as the one you already trashed. ;) As you can imagine, to smaller number, the size of the brush diminishes. The interesting part is when you reach size 0. As manufacturers realized there was quite a market for smaller sized brushes, and not wanting to mess with negative numbers, they decided to add zeros instead. So, you have your size 0, then 00, 000, and so forth. Since GW started merchandising their wares, the dispensed with the numeration and just started calling them "detail brush", "standard brush", etc. in an attempt to make it more "friendly" to their customer base. Now, roughly, a GW standard brush is size 1. The detail brush would be, 0 size, and the fine detail one, 00.
  24. More specifically, I find that using Reaper's walnut and volcano brown do the trick quite well, for dark wood. Just add a bit more lines with brown ink to try and accentuate the grain.
  25. Thing is, whenever there is a tangible prize involved like, say credit on an online store, what was meant to be fun quickly turns into a bloodbath. As they say, never try to get between a competitive jerk and his/her goals.
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