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Everything posted by Errex

  1. I visit both Reaper and CMON on a daily basis. I like both sites very much, but certainly, they are two different tastes. On CMON, I find the painting standard to be higher, and points are hard to win. The community is OK, I guess, although there certainly exist a small population of trolls that are kept in check most of the time, but some always manage to break the fence and have to be put back in. Here, the environment is way more amiable, but often, the level of feedback rarely goes beyond the "Wow, That is cool". I kinda prefer the feedback at CMON, even if only a small percentage is actually praise. I find that for every 5 or 6 comments, at least 1 is well thought hard critique. Regarding painting tips and advice, I find both sites very similar. Most topics have been addressed more than three times, in either board, the only changes are the poster's names. I suspect that, if a rating system were to be implemented here, we'll still see trolls voting 1's, and people complaining about their latest drybrushed masterpiece not getting the same scores as a cool looking , tartan dressed, big sworded, tattooed highlander I have seen around the show off section. ;)
  2. Yeah, eventually, you get to a point in wich any miscast mini becomes a more interesting project. I had the same problem with Allura the succubus. She was missing practically half her right hand, but I decided to sculpt a new one out of green putty.
  3. Hope dies last, but it dies, eventually. Me.
  4. Mmmh. I bought some models (historicals), made of resin. My impression is that the stuff is quite fragile, since I snapped some parts on two of the pieces I got. They are quite easy to glue back, but it was quite unexpected.
  5. I'd charge as follows: 1.- cost of the mini 2.- cost of a pot of paint 3.- artist fee (roughly 50% the sum of both mini and pot of paint). Granted, you will not expend a whole pot of paint on a single figure (or even a single comission), but if you are not using the money to buy more paint, it will be a nice addition to your artist fee. Shipping charges should always be covered by the client.
  6. I'd start with a green black mixture, with some not too fine highlights at the edges. After that, I'd go heavy with the gloss varnish, preferably the brush-on type. another alternative, might be using enamels or nail polish, but I'd recommend using a separate brush for that...
  7. Also, an alternative would be using round toothpicks. I find that they are better suited for the technique in wich you paint the eyesocket dark, and the dot the extremes white. Although, I prefer the opposite approach, and use a GW fine detail brush for eyes...
  8. A brunnette bombshell walks into a doctor's office, crying in pain. The doctor, alarmed asks "What seems to be the problem, Miss?" The woman, poking her left shoulder with a finger says " It hurts like h**ll when I touch here!!". " Also, it hurts when I touch here...", says the woman poking her right tigh. "And also hurts when I touch here...", says again poking her left breast. The doctor stares at her for a second and says "You are not a natural brunette, Are you?". The girl, stops crying and says "Wow, How did you know?, I'm a natural blonde, but I don't see what does it have to do with my pain..." "Well", says the doctor " Your right hand index finger is broken".
  9. Actually, I think the un-helmeted head from the plastic eldar sprues could be useful for the "Face Off" approach. As amatter of fact, I think any plastic head from a GW sprue would do nicely. Instead of shaving the face with a blade, I'd rather file the rest of the head to fit into the cowl...
  10. The Wraith Lord is a chick?. I kinda thought the overall "chestyness" of the mini was due to the fact there is no flesh underneath the clothes, thus making the torso look a bit bigger... :p
  11. Maybe the skulls would not be that out of place for a half orc character. The tubes might be turned into some tipe of blades or blade handles. Not much to add here withouth even a sketch of the thing.
  12. Mmmm, yes, you could say that I do highlight selectively. On the stage right after priming a mini, I paint it all with the darker shade of any given color. Say, I have a Superman mini. Then, after priming, I'd paint the cape, boots and briefs with a mix of red and chestnut (or even easier, just plain scab red). The legs and torso would be painted with a mix of deadly nightshade and ultramarine blue. Skin, likewise, would be base coated with either bronzed flesh , maybe with some other light reddish brown mixed in. At the end of that stage, I'd have a figure completely colored and quite dark, as those are supposed to be the shadow colors I want in it. Sometimes you'd want to get your highlights as far as pure white, but more often than not, you only need to go from shade color to solid base color, like from dark blue to ultramarine blue, as long as there is a definite contrast between the two. Of course, this approach works best when you have a clear idea of the colors you want on your mini. More often than not, I only have a vague idea of the overall color scheme, so, I'd work only the parts I have clear in mind, and at a later stage try and fill the blanks, as it were. After that, I'd apply detailing one area at a time.
  13. I know I might get burned at a stake for writing this but here it goes: All I learned about layering, I did it painting GW's space marines. There, I wrote it. Fact is, those SMs had very large (relatively), flat surfaces, ideal for try and working some gradients on (wich, after all, are just an effect of the layering technique). So, in the order of the points you listed: 1.- Yes. It all depends on the area you have available. Note that the bigger the area, the more layers you'll need to get a smooth effect. Wich lead to the next point... 2.- On a face, you don't really need to have a set number of layers to get a nice effect. We both work the same way, so, picture this: a) I apply a basecoat of dwarf flesh (maybe sometimes with a bit of chestnut ink mixed in). The next layer (pure dwarf flesh) covers almost all the face, leaving only the area below the nose and the eyesockets dark, along with the edge of the face. b) then, I highlight the cheekbones, the brow, the bridge of the nose and the jaw and chin with elf flesh. c) Now, the next highlights are applyed on those very same areas, with thinned paint (mix some white to the elf flesh), trying not to cover all of the previous layer. d) For the last highlight, I use either almost white paint thinned applyed only to cheekbones, tip of the nose and maybe the chin. 3.- That's a matter of style and personal preferences mostly. Look at this: The pecs on this guy are completely devoid of texture. What I did was paint some streaks with very thin white paint to convey the illusion of muscles, but then again, I could have leave it as it was, and draw bigger tattos instead. Some colors are easier to work this way than others, and then again, that changes from person to person. For me, grays are just a pain in the **s, but for some reason, I find greens are quite easy to work in gradients. :oo:
  14. Actually, before you even start thinking about doing NMM, you should focus more on getting smooth gradients. Once you have mastered how to go from one color to another in a convincing way, then doing NMM is the easiest thing in the world. All you have to do is add some sharp line highlights here and there and you´ll get a cool looking NMM effect.
  15. Then again, I have seen some painted with a golden yellow hue.
  16. The reason it's called "static grass", is that if you take a small pinch of the stuff between your thumb and index fingers, and gently rub it off between them, it kinda charges with static electricity and when you sprinkle it over your base, it lands upright. Note that your hands should be clean and dry at the time, or it won't work.
  17. I have that one too!. As for color scheme, the obvious would be blacks and reds, but I'm thinking about using a bone color for the robes, and dark purple(or dark green) for the armor. Now, for that added evillish look, I'd give him a deathly pallor, maybe something of a mix of Hill Giant Brown and Rotting Flesh (or whatever color that looks like a gray/green mix), for the base coat. I'd highlight the flesh with Fair Maiden flesh, and the eyesockets would have to be kept very dark (maybe a thin glaze of blue or purple there).
  18. And what about olive green orcs?. Highlight with either rotting flesh or bleached bone, and you get a very organic looking baddie, instead of the "just fell on a vat of green dye" look.
  19. Well, I use a Photosmart 215, and I have achieved very satisfactory results with the following settings. (Also, I use two desk lamps fitted with blue daylight 60 wtts bulbs) 0.- Use a tripod 1.- Select the higher size of pic 2.- Disable flash 3.- Select Macro mode 4.- Set the model at roughly 4-6 inches away 5.- Press halfway down the camera button to focus(On the lcd display, the image looks sharper) 6.- Press all the way down the button. Presto!, now you have a pic. I normally don't use the digital zoom, but fiddling with the distance to the mini, I have managed to get consistently good looking pics. Hope that helps.
  20. Nope. That sort of stuff only gets a Certificate of Analysis, wich is mostly used for customs procedures. K-T, on the other hand, is labeled as a single compound substance (despite being, in fact, the combination of the two parts epoxy), therefore, it has an MSDS. :O
  21. So, to recap: 1.- If you are using sand/stones for your bases, you are better off glueing them with PVA before primong your mini. 2.- If you use flock/static grass for the base, you'd better do it after you painted the mini. For Reaper's, I use both methods, often on the same mini. I first glue the sand, and afterwards the paintjob, I add patches of flock not too close to the feet of the figure. Although I prefer the new Warlord ones, because I can pin them to more elaborate, complex bases...
  22. Ok, first, simplify your design. Try to reduce it to simple, even spaced traces. Next, practice your design in a flat, surface. Repeat it until you are familiar with the basic traces. The tattoo must be done roughly the same size as it will be on the mini. Try using ink, or a mix of 50/50 ink and paint, with a very thin brush. Sometimes, you will have to go over the design with flesh color to redefine the spots were you may have made a mistake (i.e. a trace like -/-, ends looking as +). In this case you only need to put a tiny dot of flesh on each side of the central axis.
  23. So, Ok, people always complain about how dark/light/blurry/washed their pics come out. What you need to watch out is: - Lighting.- You need TWO (2), daylight lamps, 60 Watts each. If you have an ultra expensive, state of the art, optical/digital camera, you can get out using only one fluorescent lamp, but if you have, like me, a pretty standard digicam, you'll definitely need the extra luminance. - Camera.- Duh, obviously you need one for this. Web cameras are not usually good enough to take nice, focused pics. Go for any of the digital cameras from HP, Epson or Canon. Flash.- Never, ever use it for taking pics of your minis. Flash is bad. Flash makes the colors come out washed, and mess up horribly with metallics. - Tripod.- You shouldn't even consider taking pics without one. Failure to comply on this point, will make your pics blurry. -Take notes.- Be advised that the distance from the camera to the mini also determines the focus on your pics. The distance at wich you shoot your tyranid warriors, wouldn't necessarily be the same distance you use for your halfling sneak. So, experiment around to see wich distances work best for wich size of minis, and WRITE IT DOWN for future reference. - Camera settings.- Take time to experiment with the features of your camera, as this vary wildly. As an example, some advise you not to use digital zoom for your pics, but with my particular model (an HP 215 digital camera), the best results I have ever got came from using the X2 zoom AND the macro mode. So, run tests varying the settings, and make sure you write all down.
  24. Well, among other things, when a wash dries, it's usually safe to do another wash on top, since we are talking diluted acryliics here. An INK WASH, is not safe for doing washes on, because inks tend to become moist again, wich in turn causes it to mix with the new wash. Inks have stronger coloration than washes, and can be used for glazing, wich is a thin semi transparent coat of ink over a base color (think of the effect of putting colored celophane over a lamp to produce colored light, thats the same principle here). Now, If you absolutely have to do a washes over washes, I'd recommend to wait until the first wash is completely dry, and applying the subsequent washes without flooding the detail with liquid, to minimize the amount of moisture the first layer absorbs. To help avoiding the inks soaking one another, I like to mix a tiny drop or two of acryllic paint that's roughly the same color as the ink, or adding a drop of brush-on gloss acryllic varnish to the wash.
  25. Well, I have several minis from different manufacturers assembled and primed. But, since some of them have been there for at least a couple of years, I wouldn't say I'm working on them at the moment. However, I DO have some current pieces. Namely Reaper's Monique de Noir (almost done), the halfdragon mage from Chainmail, and an Umber Hulk. Next in line are some Rackham's and a group of Warlord minis a friend sent me earlier this year (Thanks again, Nadin, I promise I'll have at least one of them up before New Year). And that's pretty much it, I guess...
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