twiztidjuggalo78

right now its kinda hard to see much of anything. try re-taking the photos this time use a white piece of computer paper. bend it in half and set the mini down on top of it after opening it back up. that way all the back ground is filtered out.

So my glue isnt the problem its the fact that i dont shake up my bag of static grass?! ill give that a try on my next mini. thanks for the advise all!!

Ive been attempting to make my own bases instead of using the standard reaper base and im having difficulty with the static grass. so far ive tried super glue, elmers, and thinned elmers, but with all 3 ive had the same problems. when im able to get the static grass to stand up i have very few patches of "standing grass" most of the time it looks like its been trampled on. i also have problems getting the grass to adhere to the base i end up with bare patches. ive been unable to find a good tutorial on this can anyone point the way or explain in detail what i need to do?

wow.. i really like the fact that even though they are an army you can see different characteristics in each one of them. the shades of blue are great also. will you b posting pics once the bases are all done? great work overall

best thing ive found is 3-4 layers of dull cote. thats been holding up great for me and my group. playing in the unfinished basement the minis have been dropped, fallen over, exposed to the humidity, the heat, cold, you name it. the dull coted pieces still look good while some of my armory, and GW matte finish pieces practically need to be repainted the next day!!

Sweet conversion runelord! how did you place the goblin on there, did you make a custom saddle or is he riding bareback?

Well stayed up extra late last night/early this morning and finished my piece will be in the mail this up coming week. soonest i can get to post office is probably Sat. photos taken but wont post until mini is recieved! total paint time around 50 hrs or so. wanted it to be extra special.

tatsu i think that for a first try @ NMM it looks great. only thing that seems to be lacking is the brightness. im pretty sure that most of the NMM painters use white for the final highlight on everything gold, steel, etc.. but im not positive and im unable to do NMM. Jester has posted his reciepe for all kinds of NMM on his site. it really does look very good. maybe just one more highlight on the sword itself in white would make it perfect.

I guess im one of the few strange D&D gamers here. i started 2 years ago playing 3.0. then a friend @ work asked me to join his game but he played 2nd Ed. and in just 2 short months i found that i like 2nd WAY better than 3.0 or 3.5. in the new games a char seems to get just too powerfull way too quickly. and the fact that you can learn how to do so many things in just one level up seems cheesy. i like the fact that my char "knows" very few things compared to what a char can "know" in 3.0. granted Thaco is kind of a pain but im willing to deal with that for a better gaming experience. now im a 2nd ed DM in training. my teacher is a DM with like 15 yrs exp in 2nd ed playing. when playing i dont use the MM as a set in stone resource. i like to play with the #'s making some monsters a little harder or weaker just to mix it up. your 1st and 2nd level chars can only fight kobolds for so long

Ranzadule the old myth of all books being divisible by 16 is just that a myth. while partly true most books have 16 page "Sigs" you have to count the first and last pages that hold the book to the cover into the count and then consumers can also have 2 and 4 page add-ins. but a book will always b divisible by 2 i know this is off topic but working for a P&P company i just thought you should know.

ive had SS knives that rusted on me but then they were the cheaper kind. but if the quality of the metal has anything to do with it i would imagine that the SS ball bearings would be of pretty low quality.

Ive always been told not to use stainless steel ball bearings for paint shakers as they can rust and ruin your paint. even more so in the acrylics since they are water based paint. have you found this to be untrue?

ive looked at the stuff on e-bay just to see the comparisons to some of the commision artists here on this forum and its shamefull the quality that some of those people claim as Pro-painted. the few times ive done searches ive just used "reaper, mini, & painted" as my key words in different orders. my skills havent improved enough to take comissions from any real buyers just my gaming buddies and i wouldnt even consider placing something up on e-bay but some of the crud thats for sale is way worse than any of mine. i kinda wondered if the pro-painted key word was supposed to stand for Reaper pro paints not really painted by a professional.

Well almost done. all thats left is dark lining, hair, weapon and finishing up the base. hope the person is pleased. ive got about 36 hours invested in him as of now. 2 failed bases and wrong color combo. but its close!! just a couple more weeks. 6 day work week stinks btw. had to start madatory overtime just after i recieved my reciepiant.

Way happy doesnt begin to describe how i feel about Darth Ert. gotta love all things Star Wars!. thanks for posting him for me Frosh. hope everyone else enjoys him as much as i do.

Frosh since your photo fu is way better than mine would you mind sending me the pic or a link that i can post in show off? BTW Darth Ert what a great name.

Well im proud to say that im now the proud owner of a tree ent Jedi. i dont know what else to call him. but he is SWEETTT. Frosh painted him for me and i recieved him today!!. I will b posting pics in the show off l8r today or tomorrow. THANKS FROSH!!. this guy is way cool and way tiny. looks like a tree ent holding a lightsaber. and the best part is its a blue saber. frosh if youve got a name for him already or what he really is let me know. thanks again.

a small suggestion on your skin tones. since your using GW stuff. like i am when doing your flesh wash use the brown ink thinned down about 2parts water to 1 part ink. and just block in your recesses. (tip i learned from anne) it tints the area just enough to see the shade. and if you need to dark line anything mix 1 part black 3 parts brown ink and 2 parts water( if your using any type of flow improver or extender youll have to play with the consistancy a little) that give you a good dark line thats not quite black but not brown either. hope that helps you.

DA im completely speechless on this. what a great piece! the only thing i dont like is the feet. not the way you painted them mind you its the way their sculpted. the claws look to big and bulky IMHO. but the paint is soo spectacular.. highlights perfect, eyes even better, my fav is the chain wrapped around its hand. DA just beautifull. will you b posting the others as well when the basing is done

when i first saw how you painted the sheath i thought cool its some tolkien lettering and since i cant read tolkien it didnt matter it looked like it. so IMHO you pulled off the look that you were going for very well. great job!!

looks good prophet, kinda shiny have u dull coted yet? or it could just be the pic. as im allways told keep practing. I can see an improvement in your work overall.

Anne since there has been so many requests for the binder idea of the book i have a small suggestion. print two versions of the book. Since i work for a book P&P I can tell you that its not a new idea. Make your standard Hard bound book and then a second spiral bound. There is also a new form of 3 ring binders available that are expandable. they dont have rings inside but instead have 3 bolts that you can unscrew and add or remove things from. I would love to see this project come through my plant but since its probably inappropriate to try to "sell" my company i wont try. (to much). If you would like to hear more about this feel free to e-mail me about it. I would also like to suggest that if you do make a 3-ring style binder or even the sprial bound book make sure you use 80 lbs matte or 100 lbs gloss paper. the old D&D books are done in 70 lbs focus or matte i believe. these papers are a lot thicker and sturdier than the 70 lbs stuff.

M@ great job. the gem really stands out against all the armor and cloth. you complained that all the luster went out of your metallics. have u tried using a little brush on gloss or satin over the dull cote? iver heard that works quite well never tried it myself. but IMO he looks perfect as is.

what you see on the face is really all there is. his helm has a nose bridge on it so you cant see his nose, the helm is also set real low so basically all his face has is his eyes and cheek bones. he really does look better than the pic. since the pic is like 100 times bigger all the little mistakes just stick out. thanks for the encouragement.

my truck got broke into one time and the stupid thieves took some rental movies that i had left in there a flannel shirt and a pair of sandles which btw one of them was broke.. but they left my subs and amp behind the seat and thats where the sandels and flannel shirt was. to make things really nasty they went up the sidewalk about 20 ft and deficated on the side walk and covered it up with the shirt!! luckily they didnt break anything to get in but the movies cost me almost $400 bucks to replace since they were rentals.