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Everything posted by Jabberwocky

  1. She tolerated the necromancy quite well ;). Seriously though, lovely work!
  2. Thank you again, guys! @Chaoswolf--I have a several step recipe for the this. I usually primer the metallic area in black. The basecoat is Gunmetal by Vallejo Model Air. Highlights with Silver from VMA. I will often do a quick wash with Vallejo Model Color Smoke to dirty it up a bit. The rust itself is typically done with pigments. I like that if applied fairly heavily, they can also provide a bit of texture in addition to the color. I have both Secret Weapon Miniatures and Mig Productions pigments and like them a lot. This particular piece was done with Mig Productions' Old Rust and Standard Rust pigments. I then use SWM pigment fixer to lock it in place. I will sometimes go back over it with Smoke if I feel like it has gotten too bright. SWM has also just released a 6 bottle Rust Set that I have just picked up. SWM worked in conjunction with Anne to formulate the product, so you know it will be good. I have played with it just a bit and am liking what I am seeing. I'm not at my home computer at the moment, but will post a picture of a cutlass I tested it on.
  3. Two completed models in two weeks? Hard to believe, but it's true! This one was painted up for a friend who unfortunately had some models stolen. He did the conversion of the weapon from the stock katana blade, which I really like. He gave me no limits, so I opted to experiment with some serious OSL as well as my first real go at NMM. I think the OSL turned out well, less pleased with the NMM, but it was a great learning experience. As always comments, critiques and questions welcome!
  4. @KruleBear--I picked up the original Bones kickstarter box for exactly this reason as well :)
  5. It's been a while, but here is the finished product on Mr. Wiebe's old school werebear, circa 2003. I have spent most of my time the past six months painting bases, but that is a tale for another post... This was a gift from my youngest son a couple of years ago and now will get returned to him (once he is older than 5 and won't smash it fighting dragons or Skylanders or Ninja Turtles). This was an exercise in basing as well as the fur. I threw in a bit of OSL just for some visual interest for the head. As always, questions, comments and critiques most welcome!
  6. Technically this falls in the completed column, but the other bugs have been prepped and primered...
  8. Always good to see you . I was going into Ultramarine withdrawal this winter!
  9. Great work! I'll be saving these for reference. I started with the bad guys first on my repaints Are you enjoying the game?
  10. Great stuff as always! And the recipes for your schemes are always appreciated
  11. Dargrin!! Nice to see you back at the brush and look forward to seeing more from you .
  12. The first completed mini of the new year (I think this is a personal best for me to get something done so quickly into the year). I picked up Mice and Mystics to introduce my younger Jabberlings to board games, or at least one outside of Chutes and Ladders, hehe. We'll see how far I get into repainting the box... It was an experiment with Army Painter Soft Tone along with various inks to provide a nice satin sheen to the model. It's tough to photograph well, but looks fairly realistic in hand.
  13. Excellent range of contrast on the skintones!
  14. *Delurks* Cool take on the guardian angel, Corporea! Glad you liked the cloud motif for the base--you did a great job on it! To add to the current discussion/question by Morihalda, I like to think of contrast in both "macro" and "micro" terms, or perhaps "global" and "local" might be more appropriate since everything we doing in miniature painting (at least for most Reaper models) in micro . Here is an example of an orc I did earlier this year. In the interest of full disclosure, this is tweaked a bit in PS to exaggerate the effect for purposes of the discussion. As you can see, each muscle group of the arm is shaded and highlighted individually. However, you will notice the shoulder overall is much lighter, with the top highlights going up to a very pale yellow. The triceps, biceps and proximal forearm still have some of that same highlight, keeping intact the "local" highlighting; however, overall those muscle groups are more of a greenish midtone and have a larger amount of dark green/purple compared to the shoulder. The effect is further magnified on the musculature on the back of the upper arm and underneath the forearm. There is still some gradation seen, but it now ranges from the midtone green being the highlight to dark green taking up a larger portion of real estate of that muscle group. There is no is pale yellow seen. You want to continue to maintain contrast on the local level, but understand that it is a moving target as you go around the model, generally being lightest in the face, lighter in the upper body and getting darker as you move down the body. Obviously, this is not a hard and fast rule. OSL on the model or altered the overall lighting from zenithal to say a side lighting effect will break this, but the idea is the same. Wherever your light source is coming from, the farther you move away from the source, the darker that part of the model becomes. Hopefully, this is helpful and not just rehashing Corporea's and Cash's initial explanations *Lurks*
  15. First of all, thanks to TaleSpinner for selecting one of my pieces for the Monday Miniature! It is true that my preference when painting metals is using the TMM technique. I will be happy to answer any questions here about that (or anything else on Kristianna), but I did a brief step by step on the Reaper forums in the Painting Tips and Advice section covering how I do the "shaded metallics" technique (also referred to as "demi-metallics"). That step by step was really geared more toward addressing the wide range of contrast critical to a good metallic effect, which is essential in both NMM and TMM. In a nutshell, it is using opaque, non metallic colors to reduce the reflectivity of the metallic paint to provide that contrast from black (or near black) up to pure white for the light reflection points. I learned the technique initially from pieces done by Sebastian Archer, known as Automaton on CoolMiniorNot. He did an article in the tutorial section over there that does a much more detailed explanation of the technique.
  16. SENMM Semi Non-metalic Metal? Sky earth NMM. That super reflective finish you can find with chrome. Fantastic stuff Kuro!
  17. Thank you everyone for taking the time to like the piece and especially to offer comments. I really appreciate it!
  18. Nice pants. :) Great contrast on the metallics, too!
  19. I think you underestimate yourself... :)
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