DaemonDoesMinis

Well... if you consider red a splash then he has some ... deep in the eye sockets... kind of as a reference point possibly for future. He is a black knight after all... and i'm a bit mundane i suppose in that i like my dark paladins/fallen knights etc dark... like so far from the light it retreats from them dark if i could... but it is unfinished and the game is tomorrow, so i'm not going to rush him... who knows once the games done what could happen.

So its been a almost a month since i've browsed the forums... ya'll make it hard to get stuff done if i do... Anywho, encouraged or emboldened by my last attempt at the dark side paint scheme of black on black and looking through here... when it came time to make a Black Guard (dark paladin, black knight) for my campaign i went full hog on the shader technique i tried with the Tiefling Warlock... ok... so turns out dark paladins with warhorses are a bit hard to come by how i wanted it... soooo I picked up a "chaotic" knight made by "Those who's Shop shall not be purchased from" but i got em on the cheap cheap and new so paintover wasnt needed. So please try to stab in the non-vitals when the mob inevitably forms.... All was done with a base of vallejo black primer, then chain mail silver, followed by one heavy layer of army painter dark tone wash before applying the wash in layers in intentional spots. With the exception of the shield which was painted black on its front first. And the leather grips on his "glaive". His Warhorse was done the same: I've just started dry brushing somber grey/black mix over the black on the legs and exposed areas. It is starting to give it a kind of midnight blue/black look. Also took the opportunity to try my hand at minis with magnets since the horse probably wont last the encounter. Not really sure what i wanna do for bases yet. did also notice a spot that was missed due to the sticky tac over lapin the model when taking these pics... so gotta fix that. As always ideas, criticisms, thoughts welcomed.

THAT'S a speed paint?!? Dude, post one where you took your time so i can really feel bad LOL

That was the first fantasy picture that ever caught my full attention... LOVE me some death dealer. And i think you hold an apparent reverence for it as well. Self depricating humor aside (i did laugh) I think that comes through. I like your mini's and as someone who is also currently learning about the in's and out's of the "all black" type paint project i sympathize and understand that it is a learning experiance and your observations about grey's and no true blacks has added a little more knowledge to my own journey ,so thanks!!! Definately NOT a failure. I hope to see more.

lighted base project isnt dead just on hiatus. After the last post to this thread I had a real job scare and shake up where i work... put the skids for over a month to all extra activities as I took precautions and prepperations to secure other work. After that I was tapped to run a D&D one shot... So this hit the shelf. But its still on my soon to do list

Thanks for that clarifocation Lex

I've only been painting for 4 months. But this forum has really been a source of inspiration and encouragement. And threads like this really contribute to that! I know i would have still liked painting mini's but i dont know if i'd be as enthusiastic about it if i hadnt stumbled on to ya'll as quick as i did. So not alot of progress to show but Barden Barrelstrap and Arthan Nightblade were my first two minis 4 months ago. Highlighting and patience are still my goal when it comes to the hobby. Always trying to cram alot of progress in a small amount of time... and my head is always running away with ideas when ever i sit down to do more. With that in mind while still works in progress I like these next two because i can see the beginings of actual technique in them. The spots on the barbed devil were intentional... if not totally as planned. And the teifling is for another d&d player whos insistance on black on black has forced me to think outside the usual parameters i've used... and of course to come here for advice :)

Cyradis, thanks for the advice... unfortunately i asked the player already...when i'd shaded all the recessed areas dark black... and had the raised ones still grey primer, showed him the pic but... No luck talking him out of it... he's dead set on a blacked out sneaking getup.... first Raiper welding ninja warlock i've ever seen

Ok ... so its been a few months since I've been on here. But i got tasked with doing a one shot campaign and a guy coning asked me to make a mini.... a tiefling... with a rapier... thats a warlock... (crap) and these were my marching orders for color... I like red a black but this just seemed like a blob waiting to happen... So i ended up with this... I basically decided to prime in grey and use dark wash to tint on the black instead of using paint.... as it seemed to be the only way to keep the color he wanted and have it be softer like the studded leather he is "wearing" instead or armor. I used gloss black for the eyes cause i like the effect if the light creating the "iris's that follow" you when the mininis turned. however being its d&d tieflings have tails and he wanted tail... its my first green stuff sculpt. Man that junk is sticky! i had water on it me table tools... stuck to everything anyway. So i'd like to know what you all think... i want to "highlight" the skin mainly cause he is serious about wanting clothes dark dark...Suggestions on black on black no contrast mini's? Oh and greenstuff tips would be great... like shoukd i wait longer than 30 mins to sculpt it? etc etc... Thanks!

Holiday weekend, son is home, not much time to paint stuff. But, while all the kids were sleeping in I figured I'd do something small and quick. So, I worked on the spell effect for the wizard. Using Tamiya clear blue x-23 ((SNIKT)) & Vallejo white. Unfortunately it didnt dawn on me to remove the mold line from the spell effect till AFTER i looked at the pictures ... oh well its in a repairable spot i suppose.

Bit of progress today.... couldnt decide on a color scheme. Oddly I decided to go against everything I like and use cool blue colors. Thoughts and critiques of course are more than welcomed.

back to the wizard while i await parts to make base pulse light. Not much done just starting skin and hair. As Pingo mentioned where i'd left off seemed like a pre line/shade... so i wanted to see if i could capitalize on that using thinner paint layers than I usually do. So this is about 3 layers of vallejo basic skintone, lightly applied with a water dipped brush for skin on the head (2-3 layers in the hands) and same of vallejo white and grey primer 2:1 mix for the hair.

Pragma, Go with the red if you are looking for lava highlights.... mine came in today the pics are of ONE red led. vs the 8 white i had in there. pics are and on off comparrison w/the one red led with my filter as dark as i could get it...my plans have changed Chanzon 10 pcs High Power Led Chip on Board 3W Red (400mA-500mA / DC 2V-2.4V / 3 Watt) Super Bright Intensity SMD COB Light Emitter Components Diode 3 W Bulb Lamp Beads DIY Lighting

To be quite honest its been over ten years since electronics were part of my job and as a close inspection of that soldering and wire will tell you i'm out of practice. So i have been doing things by the seat of my pants, thought to action, for pretty much all of it. But you asked so here goes: I wanted smaller focused pure white LED's (link below to LED's i've used in pics) to focus in the "runes". Not RGB white because they always have a blue tint to it. Plus the linked ones had easily accessible solder points. Which ever you chose try not to mix and match led types. it will give you more options and less hassle in the long run. What you need to decide off the top is how many LED's you need and how much voltage you will need to run them. for example if you have four 3 volt LEDs... if you wire them in series you will need at least 12 volts of power. If you wire them in parallel you can use 3volts to power them all BUT if using batteries (as i have done) wiring parallel will drain the battery MUCH faster as the Amperage draw is much higher. which is why i am thinking of going from a 3 volt 2033 flat battery to an A23 type 12volt cell battery. Either way you decide to use, you probably will need a resistor (or more if you want to be supper protective) to protect the led or have it function properly. i have linked a good article on leds for beginners below also, as i wont pretend to be a good teacher or subject matter expert. but it gives you the formulas to figure out resistance needed, the information you need to know about your led, and practical examples. bear in mind though that the current requirements will be different than your standard radio shack leds for example instead of the 20mA current need for radio shack leds mine are 350mA so make sure you have all the information about the leds you use. As to how i placed them in the base. i used a sharpe to put black points on the underside where the runes were on the top of the base. then transferred the pattern to a wood block and laid out the led's in a way that would allow them to fit in the space but also allow for wires of opposite polarity to cross as little as possible. i then made marks on the block indicating + & - leg placement so that when inevitably i moved the assembly i could reposition it correctly or bend/desolder on the block as needed. i didn't have a lot of small gauge wire so i stripped the one i did from its insulator to save space except where the polarities cross. I intend to hot clue this in place once i've settled in placement and finally assembly, so it shouldn't move and the other bare wires should not make cross contact. still not sure if its what i'm using i have some red leds i want try as well first. hope thats what you wanted to know :) sorry post is quick and dirty but short time and phone typing :)) 20 Pcs Pure White Light SMD LED Bead Chip Bulb Lamp 3.0-3.6V 350mA 1W https://www.google.com/amp/www.instructables.com/id/LEDs-for-Beginners/%3Famp_page%3Dtrue

You know... thats a good idea... i may leave the base where the model can be placed in and out just for that effect you mentioned. Roll for inspiration my friend! Thanks!