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Posts posted by Valloa

  1. A nice setup indeed, Maya. I like the formica swatches. I assume you use them in basing? Poor Home Depot may never know what hit them now.


    I have never been a fan of doors, and cannot claim anything near the paint inventory, but otherwise notice some similarities, and I'll agree, its a great desk for this kind of work. I went with a bunch of drawers there on the side, full of tools and basing goodies.


    The other thing I notice is a few of my minis are still in the same location on the desk now as in the photo. And I took this photo last month. Dear oh dear.


    Now to show a picture of your setup to my wife, so that she might see the future of my desk!





    I have used a few in basing but they were fairly annoying so now they are mostly painting references and do that job well.


    Doors were essential for me but I hated not being able to use them for something so useful they became! It's amazing what you can cram into these kinds of desks and still be comfortable isn't it? Mine has to do the storage duty too, though I look forward to the day when I can have drawers out of stuff again. More room for minis then!


    You haven't touched them in a month? ::o: You shouldn't let them sit that long. They might start plotting revolt or ways to resist being painted!




  2. Maya - I love this setup. There is a possibilty that I may someday have to give up my combo room (office, computer, hobby, games, crafts). If so, we'll convert an under-used dining area into a multi-purpose space. It's out in plain site in an open living area, no door to keep out cats and traffic. This sort of cabinetry will be exactly what I need to close it up when not in use. In other words, I am sooooo stealing this idea if/when I get the chance. :ph34r:::D: Thanks!



    <G> Have at it! I didn't think I'd like it at first but I didn't have a choice and loved the move afterwards. The computer cabinets do work a treat, especially if you don't end up with a lot of space. I wound up getting and tricking out several others for my art stuff and sculpting. If/when you do and decide to put paint on the doors like I did, Walmart has those little white containers in the tupperware/kitchen section with 3 to a pack for .75. They work really well on the thin part of the inside doors if you use wide short screws to hold them. I also wood glued just to make sure. It's cheap and really effective. If your cat is a door opener the deco brass latch locks from any hardware store aren't expensive and work a treat on the outside.



  3. Here's mine. I had to move two years ago from an open table to something that I could keep a toddler and cats out (I have one that will actively steal unprimed minis and horde them). I still find it amusing I ended up with better organization and more painting table space in the cabinet than I did on two permanent tables.







  4. Hi, everyone. Long time "peruser" of the message board, first time poster. Just getting back into the hobby after a good twenty year sabbatical. Someday, when I've gained some confidence in my ability to paint and photograph a miniature, I'll post for your criticism! Great community you have here.


    On to the business at hand:


    As the joke progressed, we got down to the inalienable properties of Cheetos; how they leave Cheeto-remnants on the fingers, and thus concluded that the sculptor's nipples would be covered in semi-solute Cheeto dust.


    Just wanted to pass on some wisdom gleaned from a bar tender at a local tavern I worked at many moons ago.


    The Cheeto-remnants left on your fingers after consuming copious amounts of the snack food (Or any other powdered cheddar-cheese coated product) has a distinct, proper name:


    Cheetos (or Cheddar) + Residue = "CHESIDUE", Pronounced, "Chezz- ah-Doo".


    Brilliance. Enjoy!




    Cute. Was the picture painted on the wrong side of canvas deliberately as part of the joke?

  5. No fair printing your own.



    Pft. I don't *need* to print any. I'd have to wallpaper the house in swag points or something then. ::P:




    I can vouch for that. I had to print a lot of extra sheets last year just to give Maya enough.....


    Although, I should mention that this year's Reaperbucks have undergone a significant facelift. Usually, we change the paper we print them on, but have kept roughly the same design for 5 years. This year, I was given Artistic License and ... let's just say I had some fun!



    Hmm.. Due to canceling the trip I didn't finish my painting project that I was using that for. Since those had an overhaul I need to think about upgrading that part of the paintjob.


    Oh and Bryan if I can make it out next year want an early heads up on the turn ins? I already have more than I had last year. I don't anyone to have to spend eons in front of the copier for me. :/




  6. I just wanted to mention that this mini (and particularly its WiP thread) are really making me want to try using a sheer effect ASAP, just as several others have already expressed in both threads. I am about halfway decided on trying to use it to make the wing-finger bones show through the skin on a dragon mini I'm currently working on.


    Thanks for the inspiration and instruction, and certainly for posting this great-looking mini!





    Then go for it! Its not as hard as it looks and the dragon sounds like that would look cool on.




  7. I passed you a vote. As I said in the WIP thread, it's an incredibly striking figure. Really captures the vampishness. Wonderful work. It looks like a photo from a 60's movie to me, more than a mini. I love it.


    It feels crude of me to offer any advice, given the difference in our skill levels, but I'm trying to add one point of improvement to my posts as an exercise (it's too easy to rave, and not think beyond that). I think, despite being masterfully painted, there is a small degree of lacking visual contrast between her and the surroundings. I can't think where you'd include too much, given that she looks exactly as she's supposed to, and that is very stark. It'd be really cool if you were to include her as part of a diorama, though. As the removable centerpiece to a graveyard setting, she'd go from being a bit monochrome to standing out as a point of colour. Just a thought though. I love it.



    Why would it be crude of you to offer advice? Heck I don't think that anyone has to paint better than me to have an opinion or express it! Though if you tell me I need to do more drybrushing I'd ignore the suggestion. ::P: That's a good idea about a dio with her and I agree that she'd look good in a nice dark cemetery scene.




  8. I finished up the other elements of the model and took a second look at the sheer. I deepened a few of the shadows around the chest and stomach but the rest was good to go. So essentially the sheer is being pronounced done. I'm going to put this on my site (I'll post a link for those interested when I'm done) so it'll all be in one spot. Questions/Comments?











  9. A few important notes on sheer highlighting. You'll notice I have not taken highlights up extremely or to white. This is because transparent cloth acts differently than opaque or solid cloth. With opaque cloth light is reflected off the cloth where folds gather, but in transparent cloth, light goes through the fabric and is reflected where the cloth meets the skin, not where the folds are. What this means as a painter is that where you would normally highlight opaque cloth, IE where the cloth is closest to the light (top of folds) you do NOT highlight the same with sheer. Sheer is highlighted not as light as you would see in opaque cloth but the lightest highlight in sheer would be a light tint of the color you are using for the cloth. If you go up to a highlight of white or any color that you would normally do if the fabric was opaque you went up too far and it will look odd to the eye. You should never see pure white unless the sheer fabric is white. The light tint of the color you are using that will be the lightest highlight and should not be as bright or brighter than where the skin is. Sheer fabric (with the exception of satin sheer) is very dull to the eye and lacks "normal" highlights and normal reflectivity of fabrics. The lightly tinted color of the cloth over the skin is the lightest part or highlights of the cloth. When I was referring to highlighting earlier it was over the skin areas of the cloth. The midtone of the cloth is where the cloth is standing away from the skin and where the shadows are is where there is no skin contact at all and the fabric bunches together.




    Where you see a wrinkle in the sheer across the skin (like across the chest) the highlight is not white. Tt will be a midtone version of the sheer color because the wrinkle represents two pieces of fabric that are one behind the other and thus will be darker than the surrounding cloth.





    Google is your friend because sheer acts so differently than normal cloth and a reference is always good when you first learn to paint it.



  10. For those of us with little patience...

    You state that you 'layered in' whatever. Earlier you mentioned how thin your paints were.

    What is your ballpark number of layers?


    I want to work with this technique, but I start going nutty around layer 12 when it still feels like I'm not doing a thing...





    I generally paint with paint the same consistency as the wash I showed earlier so ballpark maybe about 7-8 for the shadows, 5 or 6 for the highlights right now. Those will be getting more layers when I've finished the rest of the figure. After the basecoat the shadows and highlights are smaller areas for each layer so they take less time. Painting thin does require patience, but you will still see results fairly quickly even with the thin layers. Thicker layers means much faster transitions and more noticeable mistakes and makes it really easy to lose the sheer effect.



  11. I've layered in my shadows along the folds of the clothes with RMS Midnight Blue, then tweaked my basecoat and added some subtle highlights (my camera does not pick this up well) with a combo of RMS Snowshadow and Ghost White.









    This is all the highlighting I will be doing right now. At this point its also easy to mess up so I finish out the rest of the model and give it a quick dullcoat. This lets me see the model in its entirety before I finish up the highlights and gives me a layer of protection over the paintjob which makes correcting highlight errors easier.

  12. Ok, so I got a few reaper minis to go along with my D and D minis. I have a few questions for anyone that would like to lend a helping hand since I've never done this before. Ok here goes:


    1) I noticed that the bases dont really "fit" into the minis. i.e I assumed that they would "snap" into the base. Do you simply glue them onto the base?

    2) A few of the minis came with separate parts (one of them was a dragonborn without his head!) now I guess this was to make it easier to paint, but do you simply glue the separate pieces on or is there some kind or sodering involved?

    3) In reguards to 2, when I attempted to use standard crazy glue to glue a part on it didnt hold, also, there is a shield for one of the characters and there really doesn't seem to be a way to glue it, so I refer back to the sodering question.

    4) Whats the best/cheapest paints and brushes for a beginner and are there any "tutorials" anywhere about painting for beginners?



    1). If you are basing for gaming you can simply glue the miniature to the base, then cover over the ground with flocking, sand, or leave it bare. Or if the minis are from Reaper's Dark Heaven line, you don't even need to add a base they can be used as is if you like.

    2). Most of the local gamers here simply glue. However, if you are going to handle it a lot I would suggest a method of attaching called "pinning" in addition to the glue. This involves using a pin vise to drill a small hole in both parts, inserting a small pin and then gluing them together. Again depends on what you prefer as I know local gamers here who abuse the heck out of their minis without pinning and they still hold up. You can also use putty to hold the pieces together, but if you are just starting I'd stick with gluing for now.

    3). I use Loctite glue, I used to use Zap-a-gap but found it didn't hold as well for me. I've heard of some using Gorrilla glue as well. So I'd suggest picking up one of those to try.

    There are several articles here on this site under "The Craft" tab on the front page, and many many articles and helpful threads here on the forums. It's well worth the time to look or use the search function on the boards here. There is also a very long list of articles here to look through too.

    4). If you have a local Michael's, Hobby Lobby or art store I'd go check those out for brushes. You can usually find something on sale that would work. Or if you don't, the brushes Reaper sells on the web site here work really well. I'd suggest at least one size 0 brush to start with. Paint wise, well everyone has their own type of paint preferences. If you want it fast, single color not really heavily involved with the painting aspect then Craft Paints like Apple Barrel or Deco Art are pretty cheap and you can get them at some Wal-marts, and craft stores. If you want to do more with your painting, I'd suggest trying either Reaper's Master Series Paint or Pro Paint lines. Both cover really well and are far superior quality to craft paints. (Personally I'd skip craft paints and go for a few bottles of the Reaper paints). There are plenty of painting tutorials out there, many on these boards. Give a scroll through the Painting Tips & Advice as well as the WIP forums here and use the search function too if you are looking for specifics. There is also at least one in "The Craft" tab on the front page and the link previously posted to CMoN has tons.


    I don't know if you know to use primer before painting or not, but you can get brush on with Reaper's Master Series paint or Krylon floral primer (craft stores/wal-mart) spray cans are also pretty good. You'll also want to pick up a can of dullcoat spray from the hobby section to spray your finished painted miniature with to keep the paint from rubbing off when you handle it.



  13. I layered up the raised cloth and the areas where the cloth pulls away from the skin with the Vallejo glaze to block in where the colors will be much darker. Some areas will be deliberately darker than sheer sheer so as to try to not violate Reaper's no nude miniatures without linkage only rule. I used this as a guide to layer in the midtone on the solid cloth sections and across the creases in the clothes. I also used a basecoat of RMS Twilight Blue to darken some of the shadow around the chest, breasts, stomach and legs. If you add too little color you can go back in and change it at any point, but if you do too much it is annoying and time consuming to correct. This is also a point where if you have rough spots from your prep of the miniature you will notice them and the roughage can throw off the effect. You can also correct any overage of skin fairly easy here. I made her left leg less visible from the front as it looked too "fat" when viewed from the front with a slight angle to the left.






    Those were the hard stages, now it gets much easier. Next is just adding in the shadows and highlights to the solid cloth and just a bit to the raised areas of sheer cloth.

  14. Out of curiousity.. What primer and strippers are you using? I have the same problem with miniatures primed 5+ years ago, but have never had to spend so long, or had paint left when stripping a miniature primed within the past four years.

  15. Also...PLEASE DO NOT BE GREEDY. Though I understand that you want to get your money's worth out of traveling to the Con, sucking up tons of classes just leaves less for everyone else. ::(: Also, it will fill your brain up and burn you out! I said it once, I will say it again...try to schedule gaps between your classes where you can sit down in an open painting area and go over what you just learned. That is what will truly help you to get your money's worth. :;):


    --Anne ::D:


    Anne, If Reaper staff feels that way then why not limit the number of tickets that each person could buy? No matter what you do, *someone* will always complain. I'm sorry but your post came off as trying to guilt trip folks who signed up for classes that they wanted. Telling people who wanted to take multiple classes that they are greedy is insulting. If you and Reaper staff feels that way, then by all means offer a refund for people who have "too many" classes. I for one would be willing to take a refund for all of my classes and on my ticket I purchased.




    Dear me! I'm very sorry that my post caused you to think I was trying to guilt trip folks. In truth, Reaper trusts its fans to be adult and considerate of their fellow con-goers, but I have noticed a trend in the past toward panicked ticket purchases which are later regretted. Perhaps "greedy" was the wrong word; certainly it seems to have offended someone, which I certainly did not intend. ::):


    Let me re-phrase, then: It would be a wonderful thing if people who show up on day X of the convention, who missed the online ticket sales because they do not normally watch our website, would have some class options left. ::): Please exercise consideration for your fellow con-goers and wisdom in your ticket purchases so that everyone can have the best possible ReaperCon experience. Thanks all!! ::D:




    Since all the tickets online have vanished, I meant that people who show up for day X of the con should try not to buy everything up for themselves and for friends...I would like to see some people who are attending the convention actually.



    People had plenty of warning as to what classes were going up, you'll never get away from someone buying a ticket at some point that they regret later. It's one of those things. However, I didn't remotely read that into what you said in your post.


    Since classes are sold at the door the day of the class, people will have plenty of class options left. As I believe another staff post has it, there will be at least 2 tickets on sale for every class at the door so that's a moot point. There's no way everyone going could attend a class at all, there are simply not enough seats. As for people buying class tickets to take with family and friends, I don't see the problem with it. (For the record I have only classes for myself this year and didn't get the online or door ticket for the class I reallllly wanted last year so I can understand frustration at not getting a wanted class.) But I think doing something people enjoy with family and friends and will go should be something encouraged. Now if they buy and don't go, that would be sad but if they do go to the classes then great for them and I don't see why there would be a problem with that. I agree that everyone should have the best possible ReaperCon experience but if not enough class seats are such a big problem why not cut back on the variety of classes and hold more sessions of a smaller variety of classes next year?


    I'm confused about your comment "I would like to see some people who are attending the convention actually." People taking classes or who only want to do classes wouldn't be "attending" ReaperCon? Not everyone games so does that mean those that don't shouldn't come? Even if you took every available class slot there were still be time to wander around and do other things if you want to or not want to as the case may be.



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