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DragonWyrm

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About DragonWyrm

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  1. Good job! I like the muted palette and the expression on the zombie's face. To make leather pop, i like to paint it using a dark brown colour and when highlighting either: Highlight by adding more brownish-yellow (Golden Ochre, but I hear Reaper Palomino Gold is close to it) until it is that colour. Not really using white, since that pushes the colour more towards neutral. Highlight as normal, then push the highlight up to white. Follow up with a thin glaze of a transparent colour. For black leather I like Prussian blue. For maroon I like Quinacridone violet or Quinacridone Magenta. For yellowish leather I use transparent yellow iron oxide. For red-ish leather I like using transparent red iron oxide. You will notice that most of the glze colours are desaturated, if you want it to really pop (e.g. due to OSL) then you could use a more saturated transparent colour.
  2. Good job! I am happy my post helped you, thought I cannot claim to be the originator of the ideas in it. The transparent green really fits the colour composition of the piece.
  3. Super black paint seems as good idea to put under the hood of miniature, at least that is what I think given the fragility of the paint layer. Maybe colouring in eyes or inking in carved writing could work. As long as it is used in the recesses of the miniature. Actually it could work for a really fun lantern/flame. Imagine a henchman painted in monotone with the lantern having a super black paint for the light location. You could add some colours on the opposite side of the mini, making it look as if life and joy where slowly being drained by the cursed lantern.
  4. I enjoy you sharing your experiences. I like your colour choices for the figures. Now I will give you some of my knowledge: Dry brushing: In nearly all circumstances its better to add a glaze after a dry brush, as always there are exceptions. Hair: It's all about shadows and volumes. You don't want to highlight every single piece of hair. Instead you want to have dark and light areas. Get a reference photo and copy the locations of shadows and highlights (will come out the best). A controlled dry brush with the mid-tone can help in getting hair definition in the shadows (if you really want), though its always a good idea to then darken it again with a glaze or wash. If you don't want to have a reference I have found that an oblong/semi-oblong highlight area works well for a highlight on the top of the head (leaving the hair parting line dark). Other areas of highlight are: raised areas of wavy hair, bottom of hair, and shoulder location of long hair
  5. I feel that there are some villagers that fit: - Travelling Priests or travelling mage (better yet some of them are young) - Nuns (there is a couple ladies that if painted up right would look like stern nuns looking at you with great disappointment) - Small Merchants in the process of selling wares. The biggest problem I have with them is the clothing. I would have preferred some more traditional easter/central European celebratory dresses (some things like Polskie Stroje Ludowe.) A series of miniatures representing National Costumes would be interesting.
  6. That random wizard cursed them to wear royal blue clothing with golden accents! The fiend! How are they meant to show off their depressing childhood and cursed existence if they are not wearing fifty shades of brown? To be hones if you are providing the minis, that shouldn't really matter. If they complain about the colour of the dress they probably should be brining their own mini. I really don't understand why I am more excited for the civilians than any other of the current minis. I really wish that the next kickstarter will have more high-class historic civilians or some folk dresses from Central and Eastern Europe.
  7. I still have some of those elves. Though I got them in the re-release by GW. I just remember how badly designed the sprue was when it came to the spears. Nearly every single one of my spears has the at least one of the side things broken, since they decided that those were the best locations for sprue connection points. Some of the connection points were thicker than the spear side thing as well! I quite like the models, even thought I still haven't painted all of them.
  8. That really looks like an albino. Nice job.
  9. I can happily inform you all that Wargames Illustrated October 2020 issue arrived in Australia. Sadly, while I wanted to compare the random free sprues I was unable to do so due to the two newsagents that I visited only having the 3 magazines with the Ashigaru Missile Troops. So that is what I got. Luckily those where the ones I was planing on getting anyways. My GW requires you to organise a meeting through facebook to get the mini and you probably need to build it in-store, so I won't really bother with them. Actually that seems really similar to the thing they had going for as longs I remember where if you wanted to learn how to build a mini you could go into a store and just ask them (in which case they would give you a basic sprue, last I remember that was stormcasts when they came out).
  10. The problem with painting my miniatures is that I paint human figures just fine. It's the large monsters that I have problems starting and sometimes finishing. When I want to paint it is just so much easier to take human and paint it. My bones 4 human sized pledge is dwindling far more quickly than what I expected. Meanwhile I hardly started on the bigger monsters.
  11. Good job. I really like how you go over what you tried and what you learnt. Now for transparent effects: Personally, when I force myself to paint them and retain the transparency, I just use a transparent paint a glaze it so that more of it remain in the recesses. Examples of transparent paint I used to good effect are: Quinacridone Magenta, Pthalo Blue, Pthalo Green and Indian Yellow. People like using the Tamiya clear paints. You can also do a wash of transparent paint, but that won't work as well if you don't use a matt varnish first to add texture for it to stick too. You can use the transparent paint normally and then wipe it off with a cloth/finger to create the highlight. You can just paint in the highlight with a transparent paint for different effect. You can dry brush a tiny bit of white (or pale colour) for the highlight Experiment and find the way you like the most.
  12. In my opinion Aganzarax is the best of the digitally sculpted dragons. Its pose looks the most natural and it has the best base. A close second is the Shadow Dragon followed by the Gem Dragon. Overall I prefer conventionally sculpted dragons, they seem to have better poses overall. I am so tempted by the dragons from core set now. I am just worried on how they will stay upright. They look pretty prone to drooping.
  13. While waiting for the Dark Depths expansion from Bones 5, I got a little into the nautical theme. After being some example of the shark from the WizKids deep cuts line. While gap filling with green stuff, I decided that just painting the shark would be boring. So I sculpted a really basic tail and magnetised it. Sure the tail is really basic and I am missing a couple of the smaller fins, but it does work for its intended purpose. If I ever decide to return to this project, I may make a transparent base that would hold the shark off the ground. Allowing it to double as either a jumping shark or a swimming one.
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