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DragonWyrm

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  1. Hard. But the base cohesion and stay wins over the troll colour variations and drunk nose. Nr. 1
  2. Given your fear of Apart from all the nice ideas everyone else is giving, I will give a simple and subtle way of making moss. Take some heavy body acrylic paint. Stipple it with an old dry brush with its hairs cut in half. Repeat above step in multiple layers of greens and yellows. This will result in a nice subtle texture, I would highlight it by using really dark colours at the bottom layer (and letting them show through in some places). I am quiet happy in how tactile it feels when you touch it. This method also works for: rust, stone, sand, shark skin, a sharpening wheel. If you want to increase the texture you can also: Add some modelling paste (or heavy gel, though I haven't experimented with it) to the paint before stippling. (ratio decides how pronounced the texture will be) Add more layers (yes, NO thin coats here. Slobber on that paint) Use some sand or maybe even a Fibre paste medium. (The fibre medium has a different effect, try a dry and wet application for it) Message of the day: Two thin coats is a lie. Texture of paint is your friend. Use it! (e.g. fabric folds, hair, fire, magic, blood, decorations, rivets, buttons, eyes)
  3. You can use cannon crews for most of the stuff (cut of any fire) The Assault Group has some seperate cannon crews, that could work. Even better you have a choice across historic time periods, nations and even some dwarves or halflings. (results of search "crew" on the home page). Mantic sells sprues of skeleton, elf and dwarf crews. Footsore miniatures has a trebuchet crew (for the really big trebuchet by Sarissa, so it has miniatures for people walking in hamster wheels). Alternative Armies, sells crew (its an option on an artillery piece, you can sometimes choose which miniatures you want from a set), the ones I noticed was goblin knight crew. You can make your own, using some Perry Miniatures figures. (just cut an arm here and there. Due to having a hammer used for stakes, the english archers sprue may be a good idea. It is sold by itself on the Perry website).
  4. The storm giant is nice and big. I really wish he was wearing a toga and not the sculpted spaulder, then he would be an even better Zeus.
  5. Really like Quinacridone Burnt Orange. Have it in Liquitex. Can be used to make a really nice rose skin tone when mixed with white or glazed in the recesses of skin to add some life into it. Furthermore, it can be used to glaze in blood splotches and the likes. I like glazing NMM gold with it to add some warmth. As a side note, isn't citadel contrast yellow paint extremely similar to it? Just add water and use it as a wash. All acrylic paints are suitable for miniatures. Doesn't matter if they were made for canvas or not. Most artist single pigment paints are better for mixing and will allow you to mix black (miniature paints add white for opacity in most cases, this results in Complimentary Colour + Complimentary Colour = Grey instead of Complimentary Colour + Complimentary Colour = A really Nice Black). From my opinion you will only see a difference if you buy artist metallic (not the best in most brands) or if you buy historic natural earth X (But even then, the particle size being gritty occurs mostly in oils for the earths). Of course you must learn how to utilise transparent paints to the best effect. To add a thing for metallics: Golden has some Micaceous Iron Oxide. It has really gritty particles. I think it actually allows you to create really interesting texture for bases. Plus a wash of it will add a little sparkle.
  6. That fish is amazing, but Number 2 still wins. The base just fits it so well.
  7. I have a love hate relationship with chronoscope expansions. They lack of focus always makes me not get them. I feel they would work better if it was broken down into encounters. Lets go through the 3 parts of the Chronoscope expansion and my thoughts on it. Part 1: Victorian Steampunk and Pulp: I absolutely love the figures. I really enjoy the variety of non combat pose and the detailed dresses. Santa doesn't really fit, but its Santa. Part 2: Post apocalypse and Lovecraft: First off, modern zombies. A good addition to the Reaper catalogue. But I am not interested in them, I would have preferred if they were victorian or more of a village folk (for modern settings it was part of a village festival or a folk group). Like the civilians, not really interested in the military ones. Still have no real use for them and the sculpts don't jump out to me (apart from the one that reminds me of Shaggy and the farmer) Super mutants, not really my jam. That one pose drawing his pistole is nice. Trailer, I don't do modern. Still there are a couple of fun ways this can be used. A good addition to the reaper catalogue. Lovecraft monsters: the devil one is nice. I really like it. The tentacles have a nice scenic base that works for both modern and victorian. But tentacle blob is not really my cup of tea. Part 3: Robots Don't like the half skeletons and half blocks design. But that is a personal preference. Large robots: prefer the more fluid design, but still not my cup of tea.
  8. Have fun with oils. They require some experimentation, but they are really nice for the finishing touches and/or speed painting (even if drying can take ages). No idea how they have a matt thinner (isn't it a medium or additive then? Thinner would just be some turpentine or mineral spirits?) Also ARGH, it's so easy to mix Caucasian skin! Why not buy actual colours such as Prussian Blue or Cobalt Teal Burnt Umber, Golden Ochre (or yellow ochre or any other yellow), Red Iron Oxide (burn siena or any other red) and Titanium White. Pretty much any combination of these will give you a certain part of the skin. If you already lick your lead miniatures you can also use the warmer version of Lead White (there are so many versions of lead white), some Alizarine Crimson (there are more lightfast alternatives) and some Burnt Umber or Green Earth for shadows.
  9. I am just coming here to complain, in the last month or so, I was able to check out the newer waves for Australia. And I noticed three things. First of all, they had some more interesting monster. Second, most of those monster were in a new price category and have a bigger box (even if they don't need it). Lastly: An early wave Troll (lets call it Troll 1) costs 10AUD. A newer Raging Troll costs 20AUD. They look nearly identical to me. Sure the arm position is different, but that is such an easy modification.
  10. Cries in Australian In other news I recently got issue 6 of Mortal Realms magazine (Freebie: Thorns of the Briar Queen) and the July issue of Wargames Illustrated (Freebie: winter germans). Got here a little late, but that is Australia.
  11. Well, now I am imagining the most beautiful face on that monstrosity. A dainty lady a with rosy cheeks.
  12. OSL: Object Source Lighting. Highlight and shadow the figure in such a way that it looks as if the light came from a object (in this case the lantern). There are a lot of videos about it (Vince Venturella , Doctor Faust Painting Clinic, James Wappel, Sorastro Painting, Kujo Painting). Now my personal opinion, you did a good job. The eyes are really good for a beginner. The area you should aim for improvement is contrast (shadows need to be darker and you can push highlights lighter).
  13. Yes they would, but I wanted to get them done as soon as possible. Overall, the problem I have with the two-handed sabre is not the weapon. It the position of his legs. They are really good for a wimpy goblin struggling to hold something up, except they don't look good as a unit. As a character, he is really good. As a rank a file, the sculpt is lacking flexibility. I remember some people complaining about this in some other hoard miniatures and me thinking that more character is better. Now I realise they were right.
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