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About DragonWyrm

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  1. I really like what you are doing. I like how the tail came out on the Van Gogh lizard. The reason you seem to have had with the no black rule is that you used miniature paint. They generally add white for opacity, so any mixture that would make a nice dark black makes a grey instead. If you used a single pigment paint you would be able to get darks for contrast relatively easy. After you finish the impressions I would recommend trying a Zorn Palette, I did it once and it was a good experience. You may have trouble if you don't use the single pigments colours due to the same reason you had trouble mixing a dark black.
  2. Painting. I find it relaxing. Plus it is fun in experimenting to create specific effects. Especially if the end result is way better than what you anticipated. Assembly depends on the model: anything that has pieces that are less than 1.5 mm thick and are either crucial to the constructions (being needed to be put exactly at that one point) or are used as connections to the sprue can kiss itself goodbye. I have no idea why GW thought it was a good idea to connect the elf spearmen in the Silver Tower box set by the the tiny decorations on the blades, but I know that 80% of mine had them broken off <grumble, grumble>. Kits like Perry footknights and Skaven monks are relaxing to assemble.
  3. Brinewind just keeps getting better and better. - First was the extra doxy - Now there are the two extra undead. (Not my favourite. They are still nice, being living reefs on their own.) Reaper seems to be really pushing the Dark Depths and Brinewind Expansions, not that I am unhappy with that. The werewolves are nice. The image does show why I don't like 3D sculpted fur, it just feels unnatural to me (too smooth and clumped up). I know that it will not be as prominent in the model, but I still notice the difference. I am waiting for the Australian dollar to rise before I add the Dark Depths Expansion (I wonder how much time we have left before the pledge manager gets locked) and maybe something else.
  4. Nice, I feel that they remind me of some cartoon (probably Scooby Doo) I watched as a child (but darker).
  5. Don't really have much experience with this colour, but I know that I got it as a middle step when mixing (skin tones from bright and slightly desaturated oranges). Off the top of my head: - A yellowish orange with some white added would make a good highlight colour. - Midtone could be a whole gamut of yellows -oranges based on what type of peach you want. - Shadows would probably work by glazing greens or violets, or just darkening the midtone. Reds could also make a nice effect. Other advice: - Get reference picture for both peaches and peach coloured clothing. - Have fun mixing colours (I recommend single pigment artist colour ) Problems I can see: - Make sure that there is a clear divide between skin and cloth, at that scale if the skin tone is too similar it would just blur the resulting paint job (unless you outline the shapes). - Don't be scared of making the shadows too dark.
  6. I would ask the novice what they want from the painting experience. If they want to get miniatures on the table I would follow the people recommending pain sets (the paint set depending on the miniature period/type they are interested in). To start of I would choose a paint set that consisted of about 10 - 20 paints. Now if they want to mix colours, spend a lot of time painting one miniature or have experience in traditional art; I would recommend an artist acrylic set/personally chosen selection. This would result in a bigger entry hurdle but I find it more rewarding in the long run. Given that you don't seem to have experience with artist acrylics that is probably not a good choice since it requires more mixing and control of the consistency of the paint. Overall I would still recommend to buy a titanium white from an artist acrylic range (Golden, Vallejo, Liquitex, Winsor and Newton).
  7. Finally got myself to take some photos. I still did not have time to put on some matt varnish so they may be shiny. The Demons I am surprised how much I enjoy painting children. They are fast to pick up. Memories I was surprised at the size that chickens can grow up too in real life, so the slightly bigger chickens are technically in scale (The smaller chickens and the figure are Eureka while the bigger chickens are from Tamiya 1/35 livestock set). Monk after fast The only thing left is the base, which I will do "SOON". Meaning that when I get in the basing mood I will fill the first two pages of the show of thread. Blowing Hot Wind Another small gaul. Hopefully I will finish the set some time in the future. Lisette Limited Inc. This was sitting on my workbench for a long time, missing the final step. Pike Friends Finished two more of the Landsknechts. The commander wonders where the rest of his men are. This miniature was a joy to paint. When paining the base I forgot that I did not fill in the hole and the thing that looked like rocks was just the BluTack. Ride The Wave. The plan is to make this part of a diorama base. The figure came with a foam wave that was put at the back of the board to make it stand at an angle. I brought it in a hobby shop without the box so it would be nice if someone could identify it. Come on Mate. To try to show the injury of the soldier more I painted his skin tone to be more grey and lacking the reddish tinge of blood flow. On Guard you Knaves These Eureka miniatures have so much character in them. I wonder what that proud man is hiding under his cloak. I tried to do a basic free hand pattern on one of the figures. I still need some practice and should have probably drawn it bigger and more staggered. Kneel Before ME! The vampire is finally done. He was sitting there, with all the hardest parts done, but I just did not have the inspiration. Hello mister, we have to talk to you. To join the "Been There, Done That" mercenary we have the trio who were an experiment in glazing. All of the cloaks started as Nickel Titanate Yellow and were glazed with multiple colours to achieve the desired effect. The four levels of Class Once again the bases are what is left to complete. To paint the town crier I needed to take off his hat. The lady was a glazing experiment to create an autumn dress. A Lady, a Knave and a Knight The lady is from Hasslefree and the rogue and Knight are from Grenadier (has lead, all the white seems to be build up on the metal). With the lady I am currently experimenting in painting a cool white, so far I like the results. The knight had his weapon broken so I made a substitute from green stuff. The base for the rouge has the third number of the date unreadable so it would be helpful if someone could identify it. (EDIT: Found the knight to be part of the 3101 Sterling Knights)
  8. Eureka Miniature has a horse for position one except they sell it as a variant (1of 3) so you may not get it unless you buy all of them (and even then it is not certain, unless you do it in a physical location). They also have a saddled/geared versions (different levels) in "Chasseur fraternising at the water pump vignette", "Horse holder and 3 horses", "Irish dragoon horse - without rider" to name just a few. Make sure you are looking a the correct size versions (and the website is clunky to get around, some things are in places you would not assume them to be)
  9. Yes. Natural soil becomes too expensive to mine or the deposits are all used up. Plus as you said they are less consistent that synthetics (I remember reading somewhere that manufacturers mixed in some synthetics to make the colour more consistent across batches). This has resulted in manufactures charging a premium for paints whose pigments are mined from certain locations and an overall shift to synthetic. Once again Quoting from "The Colour of Art Database": "[paints] using PBr6 and PBr7 exist in almost any shade of yellow orange, red and violet brown to green brown, depending on the ratios of hydrated iron (yellower) to anhydrous iron (Redder), and other clays & minerals in the sample." It is important to note that PBr7 is natural while PBr6 is synthetic. Same as PY43(natural) vs PY42(synthetic) and PR102(natural) vs PR101(synthetic). In the end they are selling us dirt at a premium . If you want to make your own, unique, paint and not pay too much you can go into your backyard dig up some dirt, sieve it, cook it, grind it and mix it with medium of choice (not in that order, and some steps repeating).
  10. Ahh the fact that PBr7 is "Natural Brown Iron Oxide", in other words it is made from literal earth. Quoting from "The Colour of Art Pigment Database": "Natural Brown Iron Oxide and/or Calcined natural Iron Oxide, usually with varying ratios of hydrated Iron Oxide to anhydrous Iron Oxide, along with Manganese Oxide, Aluminium, silica clays and other natural minerals depending on mine site." The true usefulness of pigment numbers is that they give a good indication of the lightfastness and chemical properties of the paint. Colour can vary a lot even with the same pigment number. To combat this some pigments have extra numbers added, thought this is not used as much as it could be and some manufacturers don't bother with them. As an example Phthalocyanine Blue can have PB15:1, PB15:2 ... PB15:6 as a pigment number or just PB15.
  11. For me: 1. Dark Depths - will go well with the dragon turtle from Bones 4. 2. Brinewater - will mix well with Dreadmere and ghost pirates from Bones 4. Plus it will mix with Dark Depths. The next three are quite close together 3. Greek Odyssey - large amount of large miniatures and some fun small sculpts. 4. Dungeon Dwellers - a nice selection of nice designs. 5. Chronoscope- I like 50% of the set, would have preferred for it to be more steampunk or noire. The problem that I had with the chronoscope (bones 4 version included), is that it lacks focus when compared to most other expansions. The last two are lacking the oomph of the other sets. 4. Fan Favourites - I like the small miniatures but the large ones don't interest me. 5. Daimyo - I have Rising Sun board game (still unpainted), but it has nice sculpts just ones that I already have a version off.
  12. The henchmen look nice. It looks like the lantern can be easily repositioned (it should be behind his head so that he doesn't blind himself). Not so much for the torch.
  13. For polished wood I remember watching a youtube video on how to paint a wooden propeller for an airplane. (Scale-a-ton and PLASMO) This is probably a different effect from what you are looking for, but it may give some inspiration.
  14. You do lovely sculpts. I am all for Permian creatures. They are amazing and it is fun to imagine what could have been. Dinosaurs are boring. Just look at the Diplocaulus, Edaphosaurus, Suminia or Lycosuchus. That is without going into the ocean biome, let alone the deep dark depths of the abyss (which we don't really know about now let alone the past).
  15. Depends on the exact green you use (and the amount). The most likely cases are this: - a desaturated pink Or green (depends on the amount of each colour mixed in) that is slightly lightened due to the white in the pink. - if you get the correct green you should be able to make a Grey or at the very least a whole lot of warm greys (more pink) or cooler greys (more green).
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