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Everything posted by Nathaniel

  1. What about spray paint? Some spray primers went sticky and didn't set on regular bones? How about on Bones Black?
  2. I find those sanding needles work alright, but I've had to cut them with old clippers and the like to get the maximum use out of them. I ended up getting a set of really tiny metal files which I like much better. The ones I have are no. 2 in size, also known as 2 x 100 and are 4 inches in length. Some combination of those search terms should find you suitable ones.
  3. I'm actually surprised it took this long. The largest USPS hike for shipping overseas was in January or February, so Reaper's been paying the higher shipping costs for half a year without passing the cost on to us. There were some minor adjustments in July as well that probably pushed things into the "too far" category.
  4. I would highly recommend getting some Liquitex black acrylic gesso and brush painting it on. It'll look like it's filing in the detail but then it will shrink down into the all the detail perfectly. Works great on bones.
  5. I like the purple and the fire together. Is this miniature about the right size to go on a 40mm round base? Is that washer it's on about an inch wide?
  6. I just finished paintng the last of my rats and with them all the current releases. The skeletons, zombies and orcs have an old style to them that you'll either like or hate. The Minotaur and the Worm are probably the most interesting sculpts to paint. The bugbear is excellent as well.
  7. I actually find filing works fine. As does scraping with a knife as long as you are thorough and keep going until the fuzzies go away. I tried out an emery board (nail file) and that worked great as well.
  8. Dammit, Nathaniel. Once seen, it cannot be unseen. The pattern seeking nature of the human brain is a wonderful thing.
  9. Hey! It's the old man with a scythe showing his scroll of creepy stick-person porn. I love that miniature. Now you need to go look and see if there's anything to this, don't you?
  10. Well, D&D and Pathfinder have been using 1 inch grid maps and dungeon tiles for over a decade now, so the figures are sort of made for them. Some like the human, dwarf, some of the smaller orcs, kobolds, etc., are supposed to fit in one square while the ogres and the gnoll fit in 4 squares. If you read the Kickstarter carefully, there are mentions of "medium" and "large" sizes in RPG terms. Those are references to creature sizes in Pathfinder and D&D.
  11. The answer to this is very boring. It's probably "very little" as so much of it will be invested in tooling and the other expenses related to the project. As a fellow practitioner of the dark arts, I'm sure Mr. Pugh has a plan.
  12. LOL. You could always add paint to the package through the Kickstarter pledge. "I didn't just buy a ton of minitures. See! I also got all these paints."
  13. I love that game. I'd highly recommend it for anyone thinking of playing a game with random Chronoscope figures. You may need to think about how you use the different character building options in order to represent some of the wierd stuff. But I was able to use it for a colonial marines vs xenomorphs "Aliens" type game without any problems or needing to make up my own traits or whatever.
  14. Bones do kind of feel like waking up from a bad dream. Maybe we have been living the insanity.
  15. With bones, I have two reasons to open up with a very slight wash. The first is that the matte medium that is part of most premade washes (and my homemade ones using the method mentioned if you scroll down on http://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/32) sticks really, really well to the bones and the further paint goes onto the washed surface better than onto the slick plastic. The second reason is: I find it much easier to see the detail after a slight wash is done. I paint under a decent amount of light and find the bones plastic to be brighter and more reflective than white primed metal. So the wash helps me see all the detail before I start painting.
  16. I've checked all the places on my existing bones where one part theoretically could join another and they're all perfect. I trust Reaper to get this right on the larger and larger miniatures. As for painting them post-assembly, I'd recommend affixing them to a pinting stick/block/handle, so you can easily manipulate them while painting to get under wings ands whatnot.
  17. One of the plus sides of being a manufacturer is that any built up stock of metal versions can simply be thrown into the pot for melting down and recasting as a different sculpt. I wouldn't be surprised if there is no real change in sales though. People buying individual metal miniatures and painting them can get attached to metal and might just choose the higher priced metal option even with a bones one available. It's entirely possible that the Bones version will simply grow the customer base rather than cannibalize sales of metal models.
  18. I almost always wash my miniatures with soap and water. I forgot on my Bones skeletons and werewolf. The painting experience was identical and the paint is not coming off of them in any way. I've bent and twisted the skeltons' spears to make sure.
  19. After seeing it suggested on another forum, I used an emery board to remove mould lines on my bones. I ended up trimming the emery board to a point to get into nooks & crannies. It takes longer than a hobby knife, but it does work. I usually wash the miniatures with a bit of soap & water and an old tooth brush. I have no idea if I really need to, but it's an old habit that's carried over to Bones. After they dry and I stick them to a handle, I usually use a wash. I make my own with matte medium, water and ink. I use a larger brush and really slap it on, but then drain off of one miniature to do the next. I find the matte medium wash dries to a surface that is flexible like the figure itself and really, really takes paint well. And the ever so slight shading (as it's quite a weak wash) makes some of the detail easier to see. After I'm done painting, I use either Krylon low odour matte sealer or Vallejo's brush on matte sealer. Again, both dry flexible just like the figure. I tried the kobold stomping test after it was painted and with the flexible paint and flexible sealer, no paint came off even after stepping on the miniature. If I did prime, I'd use brush on white acrylic gesso. Not the traditional gesso, but the modern acrylic kind. It stays really, really flexible and really shrinks when it dries. If I spray primed, I'd use Rustoleum Plastic Primer, but that stuff isn't always easy to find. The Krylon matte sealer or the testors dullcoat options would probably be easier to find.
  20. Remember though, that there are lots of people who go to local stores (or even Reaper's web store) that won't be involved in the Kickstarter. I, for example, am going to purchase every Bones miniature through my store as they are released (and painted) because I don't want a huge amount of miniatures at once. I bought the first 12 in 3 batches of 4 and ordered 77013-77016. As well, Bones are PERFECT for impulse buys. This too. I have a few hundred miniatures in my painting que. Bones have been jumping to the front of the que, and the existence of the backlog certainly isn't going to prevent me from buying more.
  21. My first chunk of my order at the local store for the rest of the line came in today. Got me some skeletons, some kobolds, the dwarf and the cave troll (one of my favorite reaper sculpts of all time). The rest are on their way from the distributor. Of the Legendary Encounters line, the next ones I'd want to see in Bones would be skeletons with swords and the minotaur of the maze,
  22. Back in 1998, a local shop owner went to one of the larger trade shows in the US. He came back with a reaper catalogue and kept it behind the desk (I think he forgot about it). When a friend and I were asking about ordering a miniature for our D&D games, he goes "aha!" and pulled out the catalogue. We ordered like 10 miniatures each and then after the store owner saw our special order, he immediately ordered the full line of heroic 25mm (this was also back when there were 15mm fantasy reaper miniatures, but he didn't order those).
  23. I just finished painting my 77007 Ghost. Turned out fantastic. I used P3, Vallejo Game Colour, Reaper Master Series and some Coat D'Arms paints. All went onto the bare plastic better than they usually go onto a primed surface. I just emailed me FLGS and asked them to bring me in one of each of the rest of the line.
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