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Gary Pryor

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  1. I had the same issue. I used a heat gun to readjust the angle. Now I just store it on it's side and it's fine. If you want to display it you will have to either remove some of the excess plastic from the inside to reduce the weight, or brace it up somehow (with flight poles or something else). It's just not going to hold the weight as is.
  2. I did not thin the ink. Previous models I did with a wash combining Reaper paint and an acrylic medium to thin into wash also worked but also tinted the color of the entire model making them much less translucent and dulled the purple. The inks run similarly to a wash without diluting, and didn't tint or stain the model, which is why ink works so well on translucent models. For the pictures here, I just did a quick scrub with a toothbrush, dish-soap, and hot water; let them dry; then ink-wash, dry again, then the clear coat.
  3. In a post Bones IV world there are lot more translucent miniatures in circulation. You may have had the same reaction I had, where I thought they were neat, but had no idea what to do with these things. Well, today was the day I decided I was going to try a few different experiments with painting these things to see what would happen. I did try an experiment once before with some purple translucent modes from bones 3, where I put a black wash over them. I was not happy with those results. They turned out looking opaque black with purple highlights from a distance, and translucent against a light or if you looked real close. Not a strong enough effect for table play. So this time, I did a bunch of research (mostly on this forum) and was told about using a clear coat and ink to add definition and maintain translucency. Looked good in the pictures, so I thought I would try some variations on that. First thing I wanted to experiment with was testing something I read here that said something to the effect of "the clear coat actually makes them more translucent, because it changes how they reflect light" so I thought I would try a matte clear coat and a gloss clear coat and see how they compared. The following are a very light black ink wash (from the Reaper Ink triad) and then Tamiya X-22 gloss clear (on the left) and Tamiya XF86 gloss matte (on the right). These models were not very translucent to begin with, but both coats did really make them appear more clear. The gloss was very shiny, had a distinctive wet look, and makes the model look like a clear piece of hard candy. The matte coated model appears to let about the same amount of light through, but is less reflective than it was before I coated with anything. With less reflection the model looks a little less ethereal, but also less like a plastic toy. I decided that I didn't want wet looking spirits, so I decided to go with a black ink wash and the matte coat. Here are those results: Much better than my last attempt, which were only transparent when held against a light. They are still reflective, but less than out of the box. I also tried a red ink instead and it had a very striking effect of red against the blue (the colors didn't blend at all like I thought they would) but it wasn't what I was looking for, so I washed it off. Here is a comparison of a painted and unpainted model: So really, I would say not painting them at all is totally viable. I like having the details show, but if they are ghosts, maybe it is okay that it is hard to see without taking a very close look. I also did a matte coat on some crystals (no ink) and it improved the translucency greatly, though it is hard to capture in a photograph. I learned I prefer that matte coat to clear, (but both are cool). Inks work well, where standard acrylics did not last time. Clear coats do make them more clear. and they transparent models look ghostly and cool already, so painting them isn't giving you that much really, if they are only intended for table play. maybe this information will be useful to someone. I wish I could have found it all in one place when I was puzzling over what to do and what to purchase.
  4. 2nd attempt at creating a steam-punk elephant-women mad-scientist, representing a PC in a game I am running. Since such a model does not exist I made one. It consists of the following parts: The base model I had printed through HeroForge I pinched the cables and coils from a warmachines model I found on ebay. Finished it off with some lightning I had laying around from the previous attempt (I think it was creating action figure dioramas, but I have thrown out the packaging long ago). Nothing on the model is Reaper, but I painted it with Reaper Paints. I had a lot of fun trying out all kinds of configurations with poster tack until settling on this combination for the rigging. The only thing it is missing is her faction symbol on the shield, but I wasn't sure how to make a stencil small enough. If any has any technique for adding coat of arms to a models, outside of trying to free hand it, I would to hear it. Here are a few pictures. The other model is for scale, and is just what I had handy.
  5. Think this may be done, though several people have suggested glowing eyes... Chose this one because I think I might use it soon in my Ravnica D&D game.
  6. Pictures in the light of day. Thanks for the feedback about the eyes. Not sure what to do with them that won't make him look like a jack-o-lantern. Maybe a bright turquoise? Also, I haven't seen any other versions of this piece yet outside of the promotional one. If anybody has a picture or link to one with eyes painted I am curious about seeing the effect before potentially messing up my work thus far. Thanks.
  7. May I ask what paints you used for the bone color? the effect is beautiful.
  8. Tomorrow when there is better light I will try to take some better pictures. For now here are some blurry shots at my first attempt from my bones 4 haul. I have never tried any flocking before, and I made a huge mess. Also I am still pretty new to painting (a couple of years, but infrequently) so if y'all have any criticism (even if it seems like common sense) I could use any tips I can get.
  9. I am still having trouble with the Bones 3 translucent models. I really like yours. Just to be clear before I buy the wrong thing you are referring to: Tamiya Acrylic X22 Gloss,Clear
  10. I added some more photos in front of some paper. Thanks for the tip.
  11. I am running a D&D game with my friends using the new Ravnica setting. The world has a very unique look, and one of the player characters in our group is an steampunk/elephant-man/mad-scientist. I couldn't find any miniatures remotely resembling that, so I made my own out of a reaper Avatar of Strength and some warmachines loose pieces I got on ebay for cheap. I have never done any kitbashing or sculpting before (just made it up as I went along) but I feel it turned out pretty cool (even though I am pretty lousy painter). Couldn't wait to show it off a little here, even though the lighting is really bad in here at night for pictures. Painted with all the cheap Reaper HD I picked-up during the sale. Question, comments, feed-back appreciated.
  12. A spectral (not undead or skeletal but ghostly) dragon. Preferably at least partially transparent. More terrain. Especially set piece stuff. A huge cyclops skull with a giant tentacled eyeball monster. Mean looking gnomes in conical hats. Translucent spell effects. (wall of fire, ice zones, zombie hands from below, a giant meteor or falling star, Etc.) A bunch of constructs/metal golems for fodder like the lizard folk were this year, an obese mean looking priest (like in every fantasy anime) Gnomes/fairy/goblins/brownies/gremlins or other small folk riding mundane animals into battle. More fairy tale looking stuff in general Any kind of extra large forest animal with battle damage like sword hilts and arrows sticking out of it. Bird-Men What I don't need any more is semi-generic human sized guys with swords. Well I guess a few more couldn't hurt...
  13. I hate to think that the solution is buying more paints, but maybe I need something other then the Vallejo "dark flesh" color I have. I am priming with Vallejo "foundation white" Vallejo "black" or mix the two to get a grey; depending the brightness of what I'm working on. I have mostly been "priming" but putting on a thick solid coat with no water and a little bit of thinner. I think since I am brushing it on anyway I should probably start doing all the base coats of bright sections (like skin) with white, but I have a little difficulty making sure I have total coverage with white in the deep recesses. I already had one complete failure where I missed a spot of white base coat and when I used a paint thinned with water on an area I thought was primed it started beading up. In this batch I primed the Butcher and cook all white (except the items they are holding, which I primed black) the others were all solid black. Somehow the drinking dwarf looks way better then the blacksmith (who needed even though I used the same process on both, The same with the butcher looking a lot better then the cook, who I had to redo a ton until he didn't have bug eyes . Thanks for all the tips. I will keep practicing and reading or watching examples.
  14. "finished" a very plain Iron Golem yesterday, and did the townsfolk today. Looking for anything specific tips that might help me, as I am brand new to painting. Really struggling with skin tone today.
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