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Everything posted by twjolson

  1. Yes, make sure you file off all the flash and mold lines, put on nice thin coats of primer, an make the transitions much smoother due to the larger scale of this kind of fig. A purple/teal color scheme can't miss.
  2. Could it be this guy? http://www.reapermini.com/pages/figure_finder_image.php?sku=IG_769_3.jpgℑ=2 No, this is a lizard man, holding a flail, Japanese style armor plates
  3. What mini is that four rows down, 2nd compartment, to the right of the Umber Hulk? I painted that one once, and I lost the mini and would like to again, but I can't find him on Reaper to save my life.
  4. Is 'anger' a colour? Either I meant 'I bought that mini for the sole purpose of painting it while angry', or 'Anger' is the name I gave one of my Reaper Sample Colors.
  5. Yea, that won't be any weirder than 'Surfer Dude'. I bought that mini for the sole purpose of painting it anger.
  6. The thing is that thinning paints isn't a science; it really is a matter of personal choice to a degree. When you factor in various brands as well, it really makes it difficult to answer your question beyond just telling you to experiment. For example, I keep a record of various ratios and how many coats it takes to cover in a .txt file on my computer. Some keep a paper notebook. Others actually paint on an index card the different ratios. I guess the point is, it doesn't matter what specific ratio you use, so long as you know how to use it to get the results you wish. As a P.S., do you use any kind of flow improver in your water? The only time I've had water marks is when I used straight water, but when I started using Future, they went away.
  7. Did it get taken down, I am not finding it anymore?
  8. I wonder what Warlord faction will have that character?
  9. A whole line of ork versions of superheroes!
  10. Couldn't they be including the bases just so that they have some sort of base? I realize you can make your own, but that doesn't mean everyone wants too, some may want to just throw a generic, uncomplicated base. I don't know, I guess they think they will piss off more people by not including a base than by including one. Just guessing.
  11. This one isn't on the homepage yet...
  12. twjolson


    Good or not, I'll see it because it has Turk in it.
  13. That alone made my post worth it to me. Ha
  14. My pet peeve : surfer related miniatures. I mean, really? Someone sat down and said to themselves, "The surfer/miniature demographic of the miniature market is severely under-represented. I think I'll fix that."
  15. This may have been answered, but I couldn't find it. Regarding the P-65 figures, is there anything different in safely working with them, due to the lead?
  16. What did you use for the grass? Would you mind sharing your recipe for the skin?
  17. It's worth a test, but Goo-Gone is some pretty nasty stuff. It might dissolve the top sticker and the bottom one as well.
  18. You made it onto Wedinator, an LOLCats website.
  19. Sorry to rez a dead thread, but this one made me laugh. I get an email from 'Blizzard' (if all emails that said they were from blizzard actually were, I am sure they would account for half of all internet traffic), and the domain in the link pointed to http://us.battle.net.blizzard-password-us-eu.com/. Now, that is funny enough, but the email says that my password has been reset, and that I have to go to that webpage to set it again. When visited, I get a page that asks for my username and password. Wait, what?
  20. So if the P-65 line is mostly lead, what percent of lead is in a dark heaven mini?
  21. I would advise to have both a spray on and brush-on primer. As mentioned before, it's more about humidity and temperature than the brand. But, living in Minnesota, I can't always go outside and prime. That, or I don't want to carpet bomb primer all over just to coat one mini. That's where the brush on is useful. Technique is also of some import. Priming is pretty idiot proof, but most importantly you should use light coats. To thick covers details. I also aim for a grey look afterwards, rather than full on white. From my understanding, a full on white coat means the mini is completely covered, and is smoother than a grey look. A grey look should allow the paint to adhere better, since it is more 'jagged'.
  22. We are required to announce new products to our distributors over 90 days in advance, but because of the Dreaded Soon™, we prefer not to make formal announcements until we have confidence in the deadline. Obviously, sometimes that backfires (because Alliance has no such fear, the onus is on us to meet schedule, not them), and sometimes even confident deadlines are missed. Alliance has the product in its computers, and can now order when we tell them to. We in theory have time, then, to continue perfect the formula and worry about supply chain delays etc. before releasing the product. The only issue is they added it to their website listing before we were ready for the formal announcement. My question is more wondering why you don't have a non-disclosure agreement. If I had another company announcing my products before I was ready to, I'd be pissed. Alot of lawsuits are born out of such leaks.
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