Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by rfusca

  1. For primer, for any mini, Badger Stynylrez is super good and cheap. It dries hard, bonds well, shrinks to conform to not obscure detail. Brush on or airbrush on. There's little reason to use anything else.
  2. The premium plastic, its like a very dark grey, near black plastic.
  3. I had the same concerns and was assured by some pro painters that they're actually fairly decent as long as youre not expecting competition grade. So I pulled the trigger and the figure came in yesterday. Its pretty good! The lines were not nearly as prominent as I feared they would be. I'll be painting it up this week, but I would be surprised if any of the lines show through at all. Its definitely way way below even the slimmest mold line.
  4. A little Umber Hulk action:
  5. Gorgeous work @fanguad! My wip here, no looking robinh:
  6. I can tell you, I use my fixed belt sander to debase bones minis sometimes and that that requires extremely careful touch not to just chew through way too much plastic. The dremel will chew through it *much* faster - definitely not recommended.
  7. It depends on the kind you get. Some rotate, some 'pound' like that. Just get one labeled rotate. Its a essentially a low powered dremel.
  8. If you just pick a 'rotary tool' with decent reviews, you should be fine. I'd only go after name brand if you plan on putting it through some heavy duty works - I used to cut custom designs into steel framed computer cases for example.
  9. If its just mini related and I really wanted a powered tool - I'd pick up a pen sized electric engraver.
  10. Honestly, I have Dremel brand and off brand and I'd pick up the off brand again unless I was planning on cutting heavy gauge metal on it. If you look at like the Tacklife RTD35ACL on amazon - its cheap and comes with the shaft,router,gun handle, and everything.
  11. While Bones don't *need* primer. It will certainly make your life easier. Liner first or badger stynylrez primer (brushed or airbrushed) will make the whole project less finicky. Its worth the extra step IMO. Have to do it? No. Should you? Yes.
  12. Finally making more progress here. Minis are done. It's really just details of the terrain at this point.
  13. Not the reaper forum exchange. I'm work on a much more involved piece for that. Devious Dungeons facebook group exchange.
  14. Thanks! Greyscale is a great tip!
  15. I just got some in. They're fantastic. I used them on this guy yesterday:
  16. First attempt at OSL. Guildball model "Stoker".
  17. Woohoo Facebook group photo too! Thanks for the love!
  18. Woohoo on the retail page too. Thanks! It worked out well I think.
  19. Ya, I've read over that before. I was still per hesitant that he was just repackaging some generic lower grade kolinksy brushes but he assured me that he's not. They hand tailor the design, use premium hair, and he supposedly hand quality checks each brush from the factory. There's even a video of him doing it. If that's the case, then we just have incredibly different standards on an acceptable brush. I would think I was being unreasonable if I wasn't used to my R&C and comparing them to those. They cost roughly the same but the initial point isn't even remotely as sharp and it doesn't hold a point at all - 4 out of 4 brushes like that.
  • Create New...