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About Julia

  • Rank
    Mostly Harmless
  • Birthday 06/06/1987

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  • Location
    Yläne, Finland
  • Interests
    Casting, drawing, painting, jewelry, metalwork

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  1. @Kang Thanks, it turned out pretty good. I need to tweak the sprue placement just a little bit, there were some mild porosity, which would be nice to eliminate completely The printers have evolved to produce a really good quality and are easy to use, been a lifesaver...or hand/wrist saver. @TaleSpinner Hey, thanks! I have the original Photon and then a BlueCast's printer called Cr3ator. Both are great. Using Photon for prototyping and then Cr3ator is for the castable prints and for master patterns.
  2. Hey, It's been a long time since I posted anything here, I've been busy learning about new materials and especially casting the new materials, which is resin. Casting resin is a whole new world to learn, you can get the same results as with wax, but unlike wax that can just be attached to a tree and burnt out cleanly, resin needs more prep work: Some needs curing under uv-light, some curing + annealing (which is basically boiling the prints), some cannot be in contact with water and so on. Been taking baby steps and have slowly changed the variables and I'm finally starting to get
  3. For Zbrush, I'd recommend to load Dirty Blue from the Pixologic download center, you can find it at the end of Matte directory. It's a material that gives a very close impression of what you'll get when you print the design and it's a color that's very easy for the eyes. Problem with other materials are, that all those nice brushstrokes that you spend hours to refine and look beautiful on screen, simply disappear when the model is printed. For the same reason, zoom out often and view the model in it's actual size (I have calipers next to my screen, so I can check how it looks when it's printed
  4. I'm a metal artisan and a Refaholic. Part of my work is to design what I create and this involves the use of a TON of reference material: it doesn't matter if it's a personal project or a commission, with every project there's enough images to fill a book with. I simply don't trust my mind to fill in blanks, unless it's something completely alien or a subject that I'm 100% familiar with. I have a selection for inspiration alone, works done by artists that I admire to get me going, there're color themes that I want to infuse with the work (even when the end result will be made of metal), there'
  5. Hey! Finally had some time to focus on a few personal projects. Making new spoons and I love it Were a little worried of how this is going to cast, as it was attached to the tree as a one single object and had just one sprue where the metal will enter the model. Made a test cast with bronze before attempting the same with silver and it was a success. Only downside were, that the ram itself should have been hollow, but it filled anyway; I'll need to add a little hole to the back, so that the air has somewhere to go when it's being compressed The idea is that the spoon is going to
  6. Aaah, should visit more often. The sculpt is looking amazing! For a future reference to casting with different alloys, the flask should be about 400C below the melting point of your chosen metal; for silver, if you have big patterns flask temp of 560C is enough, for small and delicate patterns up to 600C and let it soak in about an hour before pouring, so that the inside of the flask has time to get to the same temperature as the outside of your flask. Same goes with bronze. Pewter on the other hand, has a real low melting point and becomes completely molten at around 300C, but for
  7. Thanks, Kang I'm using a cheap resin printer, the level of detail is pretty amazing. Made a mold from the print. I've been testing with the vulcanizing press that I have and managed to create a mold by using natural rubber instead of silicone. I did try silicone to compare, but it warped the prints quite a bit. Natural rubber is more solid...downside is that it smells really awful
  8. Well, hello! I'm sorry for being away for so long, been busy with new awesome toys! Slowly training CAD and 3D modeling for jewerly and bought a cheap resin printer to aid with super difficult and detailed models. I've had a blast! Now that the summer is finally here I've done insane amount of casting and pre-processing. New models done by hand and with an aid of printer means one happy metal artisan. The horoscopes are the first pieces modeled with a 3D program, my customer wanted them to be very detailed and the time given would not have been enough to create wax mode
  9. If you find yourself in a spot where you don't have any LoS, you can get the patina with boiled and smashed eggs. It just takes longer to produce a dark coating. I have played around with a torch and tried to get a nice color, but personally didn't like uneven patina it produced. In time the color difference is very visible and when there's spots that will darken more than others, the end result is not that appealing...it might have its uses, but have yet to find a design where it would work. At the moment I'm struggling to keep the silver nice and shiny; stored almost everything i
  10. Oooooo, looks perfect! Well done! Are you going to leave them as they are or darken with liver of sulphur?
  11. Hi, like I said before, I do not have an electrical kiln for melting, so I asked around and here's what I got: heat the metal at least 100F over the desired temperature, that way you'll ensure that the metal has melted completely. So in this case it'll be around 1880 deg, 1900 degrees also works and 2000 is a max before the metal is too hot to cause problems. Your burnout temperature is ok, 950 sounds about right for a casting temperature, 1000 is for finer designs: filigrees and such. I've heard that it's recommended to heat the flask 75-100F hotter when using a vacuum, but
  12. Hi and ack! That's a real bummer and real odd is the way how the models are all only partly filled. I don't see any porosity or shrinkage due to temperature, the parts that has been filled looks solid, but there are a few things with the sprues that I need to take a closer look at. Looks like a flow issue. I'm a bit in a hurry at the moment, but I'll take a closer look of the model and sprues later today. What's your final kiln temperature and do you let the mold temperature set before pouring? ~Julia
  13. Awesome! I can't afford to buy a Kerr either, can only dream and drool I've been looking for a used electric melting furnace, but people tend to ask for a same price as what you'd get by ordering brand new from China... Those graphite crucibles don't need to be seasoned, right? I've only heard about tempering to make them last longer. Do you have something to swirl the melted metal around to make sure it has liquefied completely? Like a charcoal stick or something? ~Julia
  14. Hi, Sorry to hear about the cast gone bad. Have little knowledge about the electromelts, except that I'd like to have one :) Like you said yourself, It looks like the metal was too cold: we usually overheat it a little, because once you're ready to pour and especially with precious metals, at the beginning you tend to be more careful and try to pour slowly, which makes it to cool even more. (By the way, it will become easier as you'll get rid of the idea of pouring silver...it's just the mental image of pouring something expensive that gets on the way. I had that at the
  15. Hey, You can cut the bronze bar into chunks with an angle grinder, but it's not a fun task: lots and lots of fine bronze dust, sparkled like a champ for a few days. We use an old horizontal metal bandsaw, the saw itself is something specific for stainless steel, but the bronze is so soft that a normal saw blade will do just fine.
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