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Geoff Davis

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Everything posted by Geoff Davis

  1. Love the way this is coming together. She has a great mischievous look.
  2. I love it! That is very inspiring. I have made it my wallpaper on the computer here in the studio.
  3. I really like the overall sort of ethereal look of the glow. its really enhanced by the faint glow coming out of the sleeves. I think you are on the right track. Here are some OSL hints that I hope will help. Saturate the light colour. That means repeat the application of the blue colour several times to make it really intense right around the white dot at the center of the light source. Make your shadows really dark. Make them darker again. More dark. A bit of colour theory will also help. Try painting the shadows of the cloak with a very dark orange colour. Orange is the complement of blue on the colour wheel (its opposite). That will create a contrast that helps make the blue pop more. By very dark orange I mean mix orange and black and use that in your shadows. Here is an example of what I mean. The blue here is Surf Aqua, the orange is Auburn Shadow. Light level and saturation manipulation with the camera software is not needed for the photo if you achieve a strong contrast with the paint. A uniform background behind the figure will help a lot to make your effect look better in the photo, though. Also take a close look at the top photo and identify the natural shadows (look at the base and find the shadow of the figure on the background). No extra direction lighting was added (meaning no flashlight or similar was pointed at the figure for the photograph) to increase the apparent brightness of the light source or to make the shadows appear artificially deep, but the effect is still clearly visible. Also still clearly visible when the figure is held in the hand. This is the effect of the strong contrast between light and dark paints and the colour contrast between orange and blue. This figure was from a class on OSL theory we did here in our painting studio a few months back.
  4. Thanks! I usually post my most recent stuff on Twitter here: https://twitter.com/HecatinaStudio
  5. Cool! You should come check out my painting studio the next time you roll through Halifax. I have a pretty good inventory of minis including Reaper, Dark Sword, Infinity, etc. So, if you want something other than WizKids or GW, my studio is the place to visit. There are also quite a few small local game shops carrying the standard fare of D&D type stuff. https://www.hecatina.ca/visit-our-studio/
  6. A dumpster. I started painting it as part of Aaron Lovejoy's blending class. Then had a ton of fun weathering it.
  7. Gerat work, Samedi! I'm glad you found the lessons useful.
  8. My first time painting a chibi figure. Probably not the last. Painting this made me feel happy.
  9. A Hellcat Hacker for my Corregidor Nomads team for Infinity.
  10. A tip that I've found helps me a lot with sheer fabrics -- paint all the skin tones on the mini first as though the cloth isn't there at all. Then go back and paint fabric. Example below behind spoiler tag due to NSFW. Compare dress of figure on left to stockings of figure on far right. Center figure has no sheer fabric. My experience has been that the stronger your highlighting and shading is, with clearly defined light direction, the better the effect looks. Reel sheer cloth works when light goes through and is reflected by the skin underneath. If there is no light hitting the surface, so there is limited sheer effect, so the skin doesn't show through in shadow areas. I hope this helps. I look forward to seeing more of your work.
  11. OMG that's so gross! I hope you left one eye unpainted!
  12. I think the NMM looks great. Especially with all the rust!
  13. I'm working on this figure, too I love what you've done with the base. It looks great!
  14. You don't necessarily have to put the blue glow on the halfling's clothing to give the impression of a glow. If you increase the saturation of the blue a lot and brighten up the white center it will convey that illusion, because the colour is so intense compared to the rest of the figure . I recommend using Reaper's Surf Aqua. Paint a ring with that colour between the white that you already have and the first blue ring. Then paint it again a couple of times to increase the blue intensity. Then reapply the white node in the centre of the light several times to make it super bright . It will start to look like a glow after a few coats. Here is an example done with this colour:
  15. Wow! Thank you very much, that's quite the compliment. I love that guy, very cool!
  16. Thanks for noticing it, Derek! Yes, my intention was to try to put reflections of her environment and armour into the NMM and OSL. Geoff
  17. I know I haven't posted in a while, but I still check in daily on the friendliest mini-painting forum on the web! Still lurking here while pursuing my obsession with OSL.
  18. I like using Reaper's Walnut Brown, Nightshade Purple or Dragon Black for blacklining. I sometimes use Black Indigo as well if I don't want the darklining to be super dark. I also find that Burgundy WIne works really well for "blacklining" around many different flesh tones. I find that using Reaper's Wash Medium for making small amounts of wash works really well. Only takes a couple of drops.
  19. Congrats on the new airbrush! You won't regret it, its a real time saver.
  20. It might help to reverse the colours on your torch. You have dark orange in the recesses, and yellow on the outer parts of the flame. Subconsciously, our brains know that real flame goes the other way: light in the center, and getting darker as you go away/upwards from the source of the heat/light. In particular, the colours "cool" as you go upwards from the flame. It can make your illusion of light look better to go through a sequence from bright white in the center of the torch to bright yellow, then orange then red-orange, then red and then finally purple or blue at the very upper end of the flame. The presence of the darker colour (blue or purple) at the end of the flame makes a very strong contrast to the white and yellow at the center of the flame. Our brains then very helpfully add the information that this must be light from a very hot source and it helps make the illusion more believable. It will also help to make sure that the white at the center of the torch is brighter than the white of his shirt adjacent to the torch. If the shirt is brighter, our brain very unhelpfully fills in the information for us that the torch must be cold since the shirt is brighter, which counteracts the effect of the illusion. Here is a photo showing what I mean. This is a work in progress photo. My next steps would be to use a red, then purple at the top of the torch, but it shows the impact of having the white in the center of the torch as the brightest point on the mini.
  21. I use Reaper's Black Indigo for this kind of hair. I basecoat with the black indigo. I then add tiny amounts of a strong white like Vallejo Ivory to the indigo and make progressively brighter highlights. at the end, I give the whole thing a wash with the same black indigo to tie it all together. At that moment, you can glaze with a different colour, like Reaper Imperial Purple, to change the tint of the hair colour to be more purple than indigo.
  22. To me he looks like he is either just taking off or about to land. I would build him a base that looks like he just leapt off a castle wall. I would build it using cork sheet for the core of the walls and ground and cover it with greenstuff. I would sculpt the texture of the wall/ground in the greenstuff. This would hide the post and the metal stand.
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