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amypaintsminis

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About amypaintsminis

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  • Birthday 02/13/1982

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    Seattle

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  1. This is a very nice mini- it was the first mini not to place actually so very well done. I really am looking forward to seeing what you bring next year and good luck!
  2. nope :( familial obligations have closed in on me and i will have to be in seattle at that time. Haven't seen these people in a few years and it's entirely my fault since I havne't been home much. And they moved last summer)
  3. Woops! I did a google search for it and this was actually the highest result. didn't even check the year. Yeah, I wan't to try to come, but unfortunately have some familly comming out so I'm not entirely sure. We'll see :) Cheers, Amy
  4. Are you sure it's the 20th? I looked at this site and it says the 10th through the 12th. I'd like to try to come too.... http://www.mmsichicago.com/
  5. You are all great, and thanks a lot :) I was hoping to find some cool looking SF type bases with stairs, but I think that they were likely made individually by the modelist. My problem is getting the sides to be smooth and flush with the base. Any ideas or tips for how to do this? -Amy
  6. I see people with cool resin bases, but after doing a few searches online, I have failed to find them. Patrick has some really cool wood and cobblestone bases, but what I am looking for are the urban or sci fi bases. Anyone have any idea where to go for this? Thanks all :)
  7. Wow, TS, this is quite a project you've tackled! I don't look at the forums often, so it took me a while to get up to date as there's a lot here on this thread (although I didn't read all the comments) I must say that taking so many pictures of the prep work was awfully cool of you, like a parent taking pictures of every stage of their child growing up. The red scales are looking very nice. I know you don't want to hear this, but the edges of the scales could use another highlight or two as they don't seem to have quite enough contrast to pop- when you squint at it looks like there could b
  8. I think the green is good, and no the highlights aren't too drastic at all. You could take them up a bit even if you really wanted to. Are the black parts eventually going ot be silver? And are the hammers going to be gold? I would use light colors on the rest of your model if I were you because the green is fairly dark and light models show up well on the gaming table. That mini is a far cry from needing to be stipped though!!!
  9. If you use the desert triad on the robes, that and the brown of the horse come in as "yellow" on the color wheel. You have a redish purple on the saddle blanket, so for other detals I reccomend a really dark purplish blue. This should work because yellow and purple are opposite from eachother on the color wheel, and you aren't using true purple to compliment it, but purple tweaked towards the two colors next to it. (split complimentary). Making the Purple-blue really dark will add some value contrast to your mini, so it will work well with the light robes and mid-dark of the horse and yo
  10. Very thin dark lines are good- if they start out thick and get whittled down that's a good thing. Just make sure you odn't leave any bits of white primer showing. I think I can see a bit of your dark line on the thighs in the picture, and looks liek you're using a brown that's the same value as the green. It doesn't read as a dark line, because it's not darker than the colors around it. Try holding your hand out in front of you, and close your fingers. You'll see an almost black line around each finger. That's why most people use the liners for dark lining- they are all very dark. Paint
  11. If the metal base of the manticore will fit onto a large plastic base, you could glue it to the base and use some green stuff to blend it in. Don't worry if your putty is rough- it's going to be ground. You can then glue sand onto the whole base for dirt, paint that all shades of brown, and use static grass or other foliage scenery bits. Woodland Scenics has a very nice product line for basing miniatures. This would be a fairly simple solution to give your manticore a more stable and scenic base. A little bit of green liner in the recesses of your cav model will help, and perhaps you co
  12. Hi all- Sorry I'm not much more help, all I did was look through casket works for a fig that had an arm in the right pose. I know it was a Dennis Mize fig, and her other hand is holding a spear that's straight up and down... does that help? It was a pretty quick and easy to do conversion, all I had to do was add a fold of fabric to her shoulder for green stuff.
  13. Sorry to post a non-Reaper mini on this forum, but this is a way better forum than coolmini, and it was in a contest... This mini won the best of show at Genghis Con. I was silly, and didn't bring any minis to enter in the painting contest, because I had planned on just having fun at the con, but when I was there I of course regretted this decision, so i thought I'd paint a min at the con to enter. I started this mini at about 5:30 on friday (that's getting rid of the seam lines and gluing him together) and painted until about 10:30 that night, then I started painting again around 10 am on
  14. Very nice! You have very good contrast in values, and colors. I would like to see this mini in person because no photo can show everything you would want to see I personally think there are merrits to both metalics, and non-metalic paints, and each can be used effectively on the right minis. His sword looks great, I like the fade from dark to light, are those metalics mixed with non- metalics? (i.e. demi metalics?) I like the effect a lot. The gold looks a little flat, though, compared to the rest of your mini. It's very small detail, so it's hard to get high contrast with metalics on
  15. Cool gift! What really stands out as cool to me is the water- I've tried a bunch of different kinds of 'water' products, but what did you use here?
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