Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by amypaintsminis

  1. This is a very nice mini- it was the first mini not to place actually so very well done. I really am looking forward to seeing what you bring next year and good luck!
  2. nope :( familial obligations have closed in on me and i will have to be in seattle at that time. Haven't seen these people in a few years and it's entirely my fault since I havne't been home much. And they moved last summer)
  3. Woops! I did a google search for it and this was actually the highest result. didn't even check the year. Yeah, I wan't to try to come, but unfortunately have some familly comming out so I'm not entirely sure. We'll see :) Cheers, Amy
  4. Are you sure it's the 20th? I looked at this site and it says the 10th through the 12th. I'd like to try to come too.... http://www.mmsichicago.com/
  5. You are all great, and thanks a lot :) I was hoping to find some cool looking SF type bases with stairs, but I think that they were likely made individually by the modelist. My problem is getting the sides to be smooth and flush with the base. Any ideas or tips for how to do this? -Amy
  6. I see people with cool resin bases, but after doing a few searches online, I have failed to find them. Patrick has some really cool wood and cobblestone bases, but what I am looking for are the urban or sci fi bases. Anyone have any idea where to go for this? Thanks all :)
  7. Wow, TS, this is quite a project you've tackled! I don't look at the forums often, so it took me a while to get up to date as there's a lot here on this thread (although I didn't read all the comments) I must say that taking so many pictures of the prep work was awfully cool of you, like a parent taking pictures of every stage of their child growing up. The red scales are looking very nice. I know you don't want to hear this, but the edges of the scales could use another highlight or two as they don't seem to have quite enough contrast to pop- when you squint at it looks like there could be more contrast. I would do a thin layer of orange around them to make them stand out just a bit more. What you have so far looks wonderful- I look forward to seeing the completion of your dragon with great anticipation.
  8. I think the green is good, and no the highlights aren't too drastic at all. You could take them up a bit even if you really wanted to. Are the black parts eventually going ot be silver? And are the hammers going to be gold? I would use light colors on the rest of your model if I were you because the green is fairly dark and light models show up well on the gaming table. That mini is a far cry from needing to be stipped though!!!
  9. If you use the desert triad on the robes, that and the brown of the horse come in as "yellow" on the color wheel. You have a redish purple on the saddle blanket, so for other detals I reccomend a really dark purplish blue. This should work because yellow and purple are opposite from eachother on the color wheel, and you aren't using true purple to compliment it, but purple tweaked towards the two colors next to it. (split complimentary). Making the Purple-blue really dark will add some value contrast to your mini, so it will work well with the light robes and mid-dark of the horse and your purple red.
  10. Very thin dark lines are good- if they start out thick and get whittled down that's a good thing. Just make sure you odn't leave any bits of white primer showing. I think I can see a bit of your dark line on the thighs in the picture, and looks liek you're using a brown that's the same value as the green. It doesn't read as a dark line, because it's not darker than the colors around it. Try holding your hand out in front of you, and close your fingers. You'll see an almost black line around each finger. That's why most people use the liners for dark lining- they are all very dark. Painting a model is like stage make up- everything should be exagerated in order to make it show up on so small of a scale. Very tidy painting though!
  11. If the metal base of the manticore will fit onto a large plastic base, you could glue it to the base and use some green stuff to blend it in. Don't worry if your putty is rough- it's going to be ground. You can then glue sand onto the whole base for dirt, paint that all shades of brown, and use static grass or other foliage scenery bits. Woodland Scenics has a very nice product line for basing miniatures. This would be a fairly simple solution to give your manticore a more stable and scenic base. A little bit of green liner in the recesses of your cav model will help, and perhaps you could give the shadowed areas of your model some glazes with green liner to give it more deffinition. I would only reccomend the glazes if your paint is thin enough to have no texture. If the camo has made texture on the model, I would call your model a wonderfull table top mini and not worry about shadows (other than some dark lining) And I agree that dark cock pit windows would make your cav peice more 'realistic'. That aside, nice work and hope this helps :)
  12. Hi all- Sorry I'm not much more help, all I did was look through casket works for a fig that had an arm in the right pose. I know it was a Dennis Mize fig, and her other hand is holding a spear that's straight up and down... does that help? It was a pretty quick and easy to do conversion, all I had to do was add a fold of fabric to her shoulder for green stuff.
  13. Sorry to post a non-Reaper mini on this forum, but this is a way better forum than coolmini, and it was in a contest... This mini won the best of show at Genghis Con. I was silly, and didn't bring any minis to enter in the painting contest, because I had planned on just having fun at the con, but when I was there I of course regretted this decision, so i thought I'd paint a min at the con to enter. I started this mini at about 5:30 on friday (that's getting rid of the seam lines and gluing him together) and painted until about 10:30 that night, then I started painting again around 10 am on Saturday, and entered him in the painting competition sometime in the early afternoon. I thought that there were a whole lot of really good entries last weekend, and I thought that I could probably place in the top 3 in the large figure category, but I really wasn't expecting to do anything more than that. So Sunday when I went into the room to see how he did, I was VERY surprised with Best of Show. It totally made my con, and I'm now very excited for the Games Day season. I also got to say to Marike "Neener neener I beat you!"
  14. Very nice! You have very good contrast in values, and colors. I would like to see this mini in person because no photo can show everything you would want to see I personally think there are merrits to both metalics, and non-metalic paints, and each can be used effectively on the right minis. His sword looks great, I like the fade from dark to light, are those metalics mixed with non- metalics? (i.e. demi metalics?) I like the effect a lot. The gold looks a little flat, though, compared to the rest of your mini. It's very small detail, so it's hard to get high contrast with metalics on such small surfaces. Maybe some bronze colored metalics on the bottom edges of the trim? Or to use non-metalic paints could maybe have gotten higher contrast with more ease. I'm saying this because you asked for feedback, that's about all I can see after scrutinizing it. Overall, a VERY lovely mini, and congradulations on a well-deserved prize!
  15. Cool gift! What really stands out as cool to me is the water- I've tried a bunch of different kinds of 'water' products, but what did you use here?
  16. /drool some day.... (goes back to her painting desk)
  17. I know what you mean there! I almost have to have my arm twisted in order to do freehand these days, and I'm always afraid of messing the mini up! A layer or two of dullcote really helps, then it can just be rubbed off if it doesn't work. As for the color transitions- those are super smooth! Your mini looks like a bigger porcelain doll, bravo!
  18. Very nice contrast! She stands out really well. A good recipe for gold is to take a really warm brown, then a brownish yellow like Yellow Ocher, then go to a light yellow and fianlly up to white. I do think that your gold does read as 'gold' in her and works, it would just be a very pure and soft metal if it was that color. (?)
  19. She looks great- and yes, I really like the skin tones just like everyone else I do have a couple comments: the bottom of the mini is full of bright color, then it goes up to natural skin tones and white hair. I think if she had either black hair, or was a read-head, it would tie in better with her lower parts. Also, the metal blades could be shaded a bit more with black washes, so they have more definition. But these are minor tweeks on an already really spiffy mini.
  20. Wow, those look really good! I especially like the Knight. Besides the dullcote, I would recommend that you 'finish' the bases. A little sand or 'dirt' from the hobby store and some static grass can go a really long way to making your minis look polished, with not very much effort.
  21. Translation: I like painting pretty minis, and will be painting more of them in the future!!! Well, wishfull thinking anyway.
  22. Primeval and I painted minis for eachother for Christmas, I had to do a barbarian, he had to paint a 'pretty' mini, here was my part-
  23. actually, I have had this happen to me also, when I was rush-painting a mini. I'm not sure if this happens to all the colors, It was doing this to me for the blood red. I was putting down a thinned down base coat on top of a wash of black (was cheeting for the blacklining) and it cracked on me. I think it does this if the paint is really thinned and applied thickly. So if it's thin paint, the brush needs to be very unloaded so you don't actually apply very much onto the mini at a time.
  24. I'm starting to get to the point where most of the time I am fairly happy with my color trasitions, and some of the things that have helped me are: First, I only wetblend the dark and the next step up, then I go to layering. This way you can put the tip of the brush loaded with the darkest color into the crevises and smoodge it around with some amount of control, then you can have control over your layers of paint after the blend dries. Second- you might have as many color steps as 4 or 5 between your darkest dark and your lightest highlight, but you do more than just 4 or 5 layers- what really made it click for me was hearing someone telling another person how they do a whole lot of layers of each color step. So you should barely be able to see each layer as you do it, and you layer each color several times before going up to the next one. (also for these layers you should mostly unload your brush on a paper napkin or you will get puddles) Alot of blending is just messing around, figuring out what works for you, and don't be afraid to ruin a few minis in the process (we all have our shelf of shame). You might also try wetblending the dark and the next step up, letting that dry totally, then layering with very thin paint and not letting your layers dry in between. This is not advisable if you use vallejo because it will peel, but [blatent plug] the Reaper Master Series paints can do this wonderfully.
  25. Because Marike is doing roses on hers... the little skulls on her are also snake heads, I realized while painting her. But maybe I'll do some very thin winding thorns around the edges... Thanks all for the advice, I'll look into it, she is still a work in progress, so I'll also think about changing the corset. Would a darker green be enough to break it up?
  • Create New...