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About Cygnwulf

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  • Birthday May 10

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    Fort Worth, TX, USA

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  1. I'm loving all of this. I wonder if anyone would play me using Heriberto's models as proxies.
  2. I've become a pretty big fan of the Samsung BAR usb drives. Waterproof, shockproof, temperature proof, magnet proof, x-ray proof slim profile usb 3.1 drives. (I've personally only tested 3 of those proofings myself.)
  3. yeah, Mia Kay was using Dropbox for a while, but left that when they told her there was too much traffic for the tier she was on and tried to jack up the price, so she changed to Sync, and that started having it's recent problems so she moved to Google Drive last month. I think there was supposed to be a mirror but I'm not sure where. Capsule Chibi, on the other hand, seems to embed the models directly in his patreon posts somehow?
  4. interesting coincidence in patreon themes. Heroes infinite is doing a Greek theme, and Ritual Casting released a fantastic Medusa this month too...
  5. I'm going to need to upgrade my computer I use for slicing at some point, I hate doing manual supports because by the time I get any amount of objects on the build plate it's "Move camera, wait a few seconds for the cursor to come back. Click to place the support. Curse because you moved the mouse after clicking and so it registered it at a different spot on the model so now you have to ctrl+z. repeat. if I try to put more than one or two parts on the build plate (And I mean parts, so if the model is a torso, a head and two arms that's going to be a problem) I'm taking about 15-20 seconds per support point by the time I get to the end. It's an extra special problem for a couple of patreons and kickstarters I've backed who didn't decimate the model before finalizing it and i'm seeing human sized figures that are pushing close to and over 100m in size. This is mainly in chitubox or photon slicer. Lychee is even worse. I've taken to doing supports in prusa slicer, because it only shows the point the support attaches and not a model for the support, so I get less processor strain and can move them around/place them a lot quicker, then I export it with the supports back to chitubox to slice....
  6. Saw this too. I'm tempted, but mainly for things other than mini painting. Probably puts too much paint down to be practical for priming but if it works just like a rattle can it might be a good option for people who cling to that kind of priming and refuse to get more into airbrushing. Hopefully cleanup is pretty easy on it....... The price isn't terrible, it's less expensive than a paint gun setup, and since it works with a bicycle pump you wouldn't need a large garage compressor. I probably wouldn't try to use it to paint a car, but for spraying shellac on a chair it seems like it might be useful.
  7. I guess there's something to be said for the failures still being somewhat usable when you print things head toward the plate instead of back/feet toward the plate....
  8. yes, those are the ones. The wip of Niel looks awesome and there's also another character that they've got in there,. I haven't seen a name for this guy
  9. depends on the patreon, in WWT's you'll have access to the link to the google drive til the end of the month. They don't have any loyalty rewards that i'm aware of yet. I'd make sure that I followed them after though, so you can see when Anastasia starts posting previews of next month's release, just in case something comes out you decide you want or if you want to jump back in for April. On Discord this morning, they (Anastasiya) showed a couple of wood elf sentinels and another tree creature being released this month during part 2 that's coming late that I thought were very nice and worth watching for.
  10. Okay, that's a great idea. I'd never considered it before. Mind you I dont hollow a lot but great idea. THumbs up. I was introduced to the beauty of blunt tip lab syringes years ago for refilling fountain pen cartridges for pens that don't have converters or internal fillers. I have found they're also excellent for helping clean out an airbrush between colors and all sorts of odd other little cleaning jobs. As for what I use - Anycubic photon, but i use the elegoo screens because they're generally cheaper and it's the same dang screen. I have used several different FEP films, currently I have an epax nFEP on there and it seems to be working well. For rinse I'm coming to the end of a huge backstock of ipa I bought in december of 2019 before the stuff got hard to get. I use two tanks, berry keepers from the container store with the vents caulked shut, that gave me two nice wide shallow baskets to fetch things out. I use a wide chisel shaped exacto blade for releasing prints from the plate and a PETG scraper I printed for cleaning the film. I have a large silicone funnel I drop my paint filters into when straining my resin, and the whole setup is on top of a silicone pet food tray to keep spills contained. For resins I've used and been satisfied with Elgoo and Anycubic resins, though my go-to is Siraya Fast (grey or Green, both are excellent. I think green grabs a teensy bit more detail but Grey is easier to see and clean before priming.) Just beside it I have my ender 3 pro, I've switched to the glass bed and upgraded the cooling to the HeroMe gen 5 blower with a single 5015 fan for cooling for now works well for me. I've upgraded it to the silent mainboard, all metal extruder, installed a printed set of drawers and put a back on the control panel. Add a little aqua net and i'm all set there too. For filament I'm using mostly Hatchbox or Overture, or Matterhackers MHBuild.
  11. That's a good question, I know Ron was excited to show it off but I've missed the last few Reaper Lives, anyone know what happened to it?
  12. I've a plastic spatula I printed in PETG that I use for my FEP, and I've a chisel shaped xacto blade that I use for releasing from my resin build plate. I've been using it for over a year now and no significant gouges or difficulty getting things off the plate. (and resin build plates don't mind some minor scratches as long as you don't create sharp raised ridges to cut at the FEP) As for support-less vs supported - using the blade I can print diretly on the plate and get it off with no problem, though I usually don't. As Glitterwolf said, the elephants foot is a thing. Vae Victus designs for resin and includes a bit of an undercut on the bottom edge of most of their models (though most of their tiles are also FDM friendly.) Rocket Pig actually designs for FDM and they're 'support free' with that in mind. (though I'd still print on a raft because elephants foot is a thing for FDM too) Not sure about Arbiter, I've never worked with any of their stuff All that said - printing on the plate will work, but you might need a little more cleanup around the bottom edge. A sharp exacto knife on smooth curves or straights can work really well if you trim before doing the post cure, otherwise you're stuck wet sanding or living with it. Also, printing directly on the plate will make hollowing to save resin and suction force impossible since there will be nowhere to place the vent holes except in the visible surface of the model.
  13. White Werewolf is doing a forest creatures theme this month. I'm particularly fond of the Formorian (which also comes in bust form) The Forest Mephits are cute too Also a Pixie and a living tree
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