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Everything posted by Cygnwulf

  1. Let me know how it goes, I haven't had great results with the water washable resins, they don't clean up as well as they claim they should. This was phrozen's though and I haven't bothered trying any of the others so I'm curious. I have seen a lot of people online saying that they're prone to cracking, but nobody with firsthand experience
  2. Cloudiness is normal and the actual preferred surface state for the clear resins after processing. (For resin, if the surface is still shiny then it's not completely clean.) I know a lot of people have good results with gloss varnish bringing back the transparency.
  3. I have the G7 Power (the G-Power's predacessor) and it has a horrible antenna, dropping signal and not being able to connect in loads of places that Mrs's iphone and sister-in-law's Galaxy somesomething have no trouble. Preliminary reviews on a few other places I follow indicate that the G-Power has the same flaw. Great battery life, solid processor, camera and screen. But weak antenna.
  4. yeah, I've been able to get it to work slower but I have to slow it down so much that I might as well use a smaller nozzle faster. the stronger heater is an idea though.
  5. Nice, yeah I had just missed which printer. That kind of speed is very nice.
  6. What printer are you using? My ender has trouble with a 1.0 nozzle, the filament just doesn't stay in the hot end long enough to heat through.
  7. project pre-linky here: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/859512613/cyber-city I'm intrigued at least
  8. IF you went to the ReaperconLIVE site, it redirects to the virtual expo, which makes sense as it appears it will have a similar format to what ReaperConLive was, and there was talk during RCL that if it went well it might become a recurring thing, just not at the first of September so it doesn't interfere with ReaperCon orginization. https://reapercon.com/ is the link to the ReaperCon website, which hasn't had an update since the cancellation notice for reapercon last year and I suspect we probably won't see much until after the start of the year. At this point I can only assume that some small plans are in place for RCon2021 since we don't know what the pandemic situation will be 10 months from now
  9. I've seen this before. It's usually because a belt slipped. (slice file errors that would do this to an FDM printer and keep the things above it correct are vanishingly rare unless the printer tried to move Y to a coordinate out of range) Try to keep your Y belt very tight (it's hard to over tighten these things when doing it by hand). as an addition, I'd double check your esteps and retraction settings, it looks like you've got a bit of over extrusion happening (See the blobbiness on other parts of the model?) most likely what happened was a small bit of the blobiness was raised just enough and in just the right place that the nozzle hung on it during a fast move, and the belt slipped, letting the motor turn without the plate moving, causing the printer to no longer correctly know where y=0 was. A tight belt would cause it to plow through this and keep moving but if you can fix both problems that's even better.
  10. From the looks of things, to replace you'd need a new heat break and heat sink. The heat sink for the i3mk2 appears to come with the coupler built in, so you should be ok without that, but there are lots of aftermarket versions on amazon as well. I don't have an i3 unfortunately so I can't give much specific advice on reassembling....
  11. That appears to be a Heat Break, the bottom end would screw into another block where the heater, thermistor, and nozzle are. I forget what printer you have, that definately is not the creality version. Looks like you have part of the PTFE tubing still sticking out the top, but no coupler? I'm assuming you were able to get it off? ideally you'd be able to force the tubing out with a similar sized piece of rod or something and then clean up what was left of it inside the heat break, then you should be able to reinstall it with a new bowden tube. EDIT: Scale is a challenge for me here.... What you're holding appears to be the heat sink, and the heat break is the little threaded tube at the bottom. Most likely the tube is wedged in that threaded tube at the bottom that is called the heat break. Assuming you haven an i3, that particular bit looks to be available from the Great River for around $10, but it depends on your manufacturer and if you're ok with bimetal vs titanium or some other fanciness going on. I've never replaced one before....
  12. I'd expect to see another uptick in releases in bones black starting next May or June...
  13. So... The Phrozen Sonic Mighty is a thing that might be happening with my Christmas bonus ... Anything else have any thoughts on it? Larger plate though slightly less height than the mono x and Saturn, they're boasting a whopping 80mm/hour print speed
  14. Could be, but I find it hard to reconcile that it needs an increase from 9 seconds to 12, which is where I had to go to start getting anything out of the printer. The transperant resins are supposed to be a slight bit faster than the others, but this I'm having to overexpose to get anything out.
  15. I know both photons use 12v fans, for the S it looks like the replacement LED fan is 60mm, the build area fan I can't find listed. (I've seen several people replace the one on the og photon with a 120 mm nocta fan to make it almost silent.) On my regular photon I replaced the build area fan with a 50x15 radial fan as part of my air filter adapter. However, knowing what I know now, I've unhooked it completely and capped the hole - turns out pumping all that air out doesn't really help you any, with it closed up it stays nice and warm inside the build area and keeps your resin at a good temperature. In other news - found my problem with the new film. It wasn't the film, it was the resin. Looks like I got a bum bottle of transparent green. I switched back and used some of the old aqua I had and it worked perfectly.
  16. Keep in mind too that a lot of the pro printers are also considering machine time in their pricing. The machine have maintenance intervals and lifetimes and depreciate like anything else. so a tall thin resin print that takes a longer time to print (Even if it isn't more resin) may be priced more expensive because of the additional wear and tear.
  17. It's not like the screens are super expensive either. I'm not a fan of how much you have to take the printer apart to get to it but it's not that expensive....
  18. I top off the resin level after each print and only clean the vat if a print fails. Same. And even then, for most failures, 'cleaning' the vat means pouring all the resin out through a paint strainer into an empty bottle, squeegee-ing it with a petg scraper, a quick wipe with a dry kitchen towel (which then goes into the cure box for a bit before disposal) before reinstalling and refilling with the filtered resin. I only actually CLEAN clean the vat when changing resins. For that the vat itself gets into the rinse tank and completely washed, kitchen towel dried, then allowed to air dry for a bit before going back in.
  19. I've not had good experience trying to contact them either. Their documentation is frequently out of date and their support team takes a very long time to reply. Also, that 'nobody is avilable call back later' and disconnect thing will turn me off from using a company FAST. The problem is, I usually don't run in to that until AFTER I have used them and now have a problem.
  20. Anyone here ever used the EPAX film on a photon or mars? I thought I'd give it a go but I haven't been able to get a single good print, evne with files that were great before. I've releveled multiple times, increased supports, tuned to 350, 500 and 800 hz, and even gone up to heavy supports, but I just can't get it to turn out. I know there are people who evangelize this stuff, but I'm missing something here and may have to call it a $20 learning experience and go back to regular fep....
  21. here's a useful model for this. Sir Scalsby comes in 6,.10,15,25,28,30,32,34,40, and 54mm scales. Reaper varies between 28 and 32 depending on the sculptor. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4386377
  22. I'm trying out the epax non-fep film, so far it hasn't gone well. stuff seems to be ripping off the supports worse than it was with the traditional fep. Then again, I was in the habit of using ptfe spray on my regular fep and I omitted it for this because I thought it might interfere with the oxygen permeability of the nfep
  23. in theory printers purchased for printing shields and such should have been FDM, resin isn't really skin safe and shouldn't be used for anything you wear. Then again, I think a lot of people didn't care much about that.
  24. There's also the whole issue with it producing a fine mist of said inflammable liquid, thereby greatly increasing the risk of spontaneous ignition.
  25. a year ago I'd of said you were correct but right now there are probably also a lot of people selling them to free up room for a Saturn or Mono X upgrade.
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