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All-Terrain Monkey

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Posts posted by All-Terrain Monkey

  1. I have to say, it's a bit different when there's been a green and a painted version posted (i.e. Pathfinder Dragon) versus something that's not even in putty yet (unless there's been a Pulp Cthulhu I'm not aware of). ::D: I'm just waiting on the Dragon to come out so the "Pathfinder Cover-palooza Diorama-fest" can begin.

  2. To help clarify, there are two versions of the "Frost Giant" mini: 02599 and 65060. In Australian dollars they're $32.99 and $23.99 respectively. This model is not currently in Warlord.


    There is a different model, 65100, which is only in P-65, and is listed as a "Frost Giant Warrior" at $23.99, and is slated for Warlord.


    If you are talking about the first one, the one with the axe and shield, I haven't been able to reproduce any price disparities between the two versions in either metal type.


    If you are talking about the second one, with the spear, it only has one SKU, and is only in P-65.


    Links to the pages where you're seeing the problem will immensely help, as that'll allow me to obtain the exact search combination on the exact page needed to reproduce the issues. ::D:

  3. (Off topic) Look in the bottom right corner of your post, Harak; you should see "Edit" next to "Reply" and "MultiQuote". If you're ever unsure, hit Ctrl + F in your browser of choice and search for "Edit", can sometimes help you find pesky buttons :).


    When you say regular brush, are you talking about a synthetic bristle or a sable one?

  4. To be honest, I think you're obsessing and overanalyzing it. If you know what a glaze is used for, namely, smoothing out layering, then the only answer to "How many coats should I put on" is "Does it look smooth yet?" The answer to "Is it too thin" is "Is it taking too long for you to notice a difference?" Yes, you need to let each glaze dry fully before the next one, but otherwise you're overthinking this way too much. ::D:

  5. Ok, having watched the movie, are you asking if it's a glaze for use on a miniature, or on paper? If you were looking to use it on a miniature I'd say it's just about right, though I'd go half water:half sealer instead of the 8:3 you used. If it was on a miniature, do you have any pics of how it looked on there? Did you actually try it out on a miniature? Did you just use one coat, or fifteen? Even though you have a video, there's still a whole lot of information needed to answer your question.


    If you were talking about using a glaze on paper I'm afraid I have no idea; an actual painters forum for watercolor/acrylics on canvas would probably be a better place to ask ::D:.

  6. This has been covered on here a couple of times ::D:. One of the more exhaustive explanations is here, look for Laszlo's great breakdown partway down the thread (search topic was Additives ::D:). In regards to the water, the additives shouldn't need water added to them directly before being used with your paint, but I wouldn't add only additives to your paint to thin them down. If you're using MSP's, I'd recommend only thinning them with plain water and nothing else.

  7. @Rastl and Nytflyr: we're working on finding the orphaned photos that got cut off due to Warlord SKU's changing and other fun stuff. It's in the Huge List Of Things To Do When There's Nothing Else Going On (which normally gets rolled into Things John Plucks Away At While Giving His Brain A Break). If there was a quick and easy method of finding them and getting them going it'd be done already :poke: .


    In other news, as I'm sure you may have already seen, we've implemented a color-tagging system which allows you to tag three colors per picture with the "main" colors you think describe your image best. Before you ask, no, we're not going to tie individual colors to specific parts of the model (i.e. no "Burgundy Wine Slacks", no matter how awesome it'd be) ::D:. We still think the system in its current incarnation is very handy-dandy for your Inspiration needs, but we'd still like to know what you think!

  8. I had the mini at the second or third ReaperCon, along with the Artist Formerly Known as Prince Danithal and the Were-Care-Bear, so I'm sure there's someone out there with the actual pics (I can't find where I have them currently). I gave it as a gift to the Queen of Credits, but am pretty sure she doesn't have pics yet (along with the rest of her ginormous collection). My version was a brown gnoll with green hair and flock actually covering all of the hair ::D:.

  9. Hey Morganm; in the feedback thread on the Power Palette I mentioned the fact that we are going to get a bit more verbose about what the paints are and how to use them. That being said, realize it's yet another thing to tack onto Anne's plate (~240 paint colors and ~80 triads are going to take a while to describe), followed by retooling the Paint page and fitting in what we can on the Power Palette, so... it might take a bit to see it come to fruition ::D:.

  10. Usually when glazing you can treat the first part of it like a wash; load a large brush with a lot of paint and slather it over the area you're trying to smooth your blends in. However, since glazes usually run from the midtone up to your middle highlight color, you don't want the paint to pool in the recesses of the sculpt. After you slather the paint on, quickly rinse and dry your brush, then wick the moisture out of the low-lying areas, dry the brush on a paper towel, and repeat where needed to remove pools of paint. Once you have no pools on the mini, a small hair dryer on a low setting can be used to speed up the drying process, which is handy if you're using very thin paint and need 10-15 glazes to achieve your desired level of smoothness.

  11. Hello Dais!


    I'm unsure what you mean by having a photo and a swatch; are you talking about having a photo of the actual paint bottle? And you're right about it not matching pink; it won't match any of the colors it has no close equivalent to, and there currently are no pinks in the line (at least they're easy to make with White and Red! ::D:).


    Also, here's a link to the Paint Info Thread in the "Painting Tips and Tricks" forum (look for Vaitalla's post in it) which goes into detail about what the different colors in the line are and how they work. All of the Clear colors are designed to be pure pigment with no coverage whatsover. It makes them into a kinda really cool Swiss Army Paint, able to add saturation into another color, be used quickly and easily as a glaze, as final highlights on a spot, etc.


    We're working on having a product description of the paints in the line, but it's yet another thing on Anne's plate, and a lot of colors to go through ::D:.

  12. Or, you _could_ use the Power Palette ::D:. The artist listed:

    For red i taken black, purple, arcavia red (rackham) and vermillion (vallejo).


    Arcavia Red, from Silicon Dragon's matching, is Carnage Red 9135, Blood Red 9003, or Terracotta Clay 9170. Vermillion is listed as Carnage Red, 9135. Without a "brand" for the purple, I'd just assume any deep purple could be used.


    I took the original image, cropped it, and popped it into the Power Palette, and got this list for a start to finish:

    09235 Red Shadow [+] ⇒

    09134 Clotted Red [+] ⇒

    09133 Bloodstain Red [+] ⇒

    09135 Carnage Red [+] ⇒

    09002 Deep Red [+] ⇒

    09037 Pure Black [+] ⇒

    09238 Regal Purple [+] ⇒

    09003 Blood Red [+] ⇒


    I think two out of three of the possibles listed from Silicon Dragons, plus picking up shadow colors along with the purple shift, is pretty darned good ::D:. From the link it took me a minute to crop the image in Photoshop, then another minute or so to load it up in the Power Palette, and I clicked around ten or fifteen times or so to generate the best match list you see in the attached image. Don't be afraid to give the Power Palette a shot! ::D:


  13. Yep; the swatches you see in the online store are 100% not the colors we use in the Power Palette, so trying to "test" the palette with them is only going to lead to heartache. That goes back to the part of the FAQ where I talked about the differences between RGB, CMYK, and pigments (don't get me started on HSV/HSB/HSL/CieLAB). In regards to matching the color on the model, however, look at the colors you see in the viewfinder. While the human eye sees countless gradations, file formats, by necessity, have to interpolate colors, so just by having the image on a computer you're introducing "errors" in your match; in the Viewfinder, you can see what happens when the system color matches those interpolated pixels. The "uniform" color you see on the miniature is likely going to be a riot of colors, but that's ok. The Results from Last Click are going to be a bit scattered on whichever three-dimensional color space you use (or we use, for that matter); the Best Match is going to be the vector that most closely matches the heaviest weighted results. You can easily use other tools readily available on the web or in applications to get a direct color value/swatch for any given pixel in your image and figure out paints to use or mix to match it; this tool will at least give you the best options of a starting color to use when mixing. ::D:


    And, in regards to the tool not matching the colors you used, you're right; it probably won't. We're entirely happy with that fact ::D:. When I do steel NMM I normally use Grey Liner, Ghost White, and Pure White; there's no way I could click on a middle grey and have the system tell me it's 30% Grey Liner and 70% Ghost White. What it can do, though, is tell me what paint I could use to get that tone directly. The other thing to remember is the tool isn't so much about you finding out what colors you already know you used on a mini you painted, but finding out what colors you can use on a mini someone else has painted. Or matching Night Elf or Na'vi skin tones. Or figuring out colors to use for DCU patterns. Or not having to track down someone on forums and asking them what color they used. Etc., etc.


    In regards to file sizes, the larger pictures will actually help you out with the tool; you can crop them to focus on certain areas, then zero in on colors.


    Hm, lessee, what else do I need to answer, besides the charges of awesomeness ::D:... Oh yeah, the accuracy of the swatches! We used a highly sophisticated and remarkable tool to create the color map we use in the system: Anne Foerster. Seriously; have you talked to this woman? She can look at any color and tell you twenty different ways to mix pigments from a quarter dozen manufacturers without having to think about it. [Edit: she answered before I did ::D:] In two sessions we knocked out all of the viable colors for the tool (since we can't color match metallics, primers weren't needed, etc). All of those color values were saved to be calculated with whenever you click on an image. Because it's a computer doing the calculation, we use three-dimensional color systems to represent each color. This means that the exact, precise measure of the onscreen color to its liquid, real counterpart isn't quite as important as making sure the exact, precise difference between one color and another are exact. Whether you're using an RGB cube, HSL double conic (maybe it's HSV, I still need more coffee), or whatever, the exact point in that color space becomes much less exciting than the possible vectors you can utilize to achieve averages between different points in the same color space. ::D:


    So, if you use the tool, find a swatch, click on it to make it bigger, and compare what you see on your screen to a sample of the actual paint right in front of you, I'd be completely amazed and shocked if it actually matched 100%. ::D: Differences in computer screens, calibrations between even the same screens, natural variance in the amounts and ratios of pigments between bottles of paint in different batches, age of the paint in question, ambient lighting, and tons of other factors mean it won't be exact, which I'm totally cool with ::D:.


    I guess I need to go back to the FAQ and put in more information about how the tool won't, can't, and isn't able to tell you exactly what colors you mixed together while layering a figure, and emphasize the point that it can tell you what color you can use at whatever point and area to get in the right ballpark ::D:.

  14. The basic FAQ and instructions are now posted, which should give you more info about what's going on and how to use the Power Palette. Please feel free to let me know what questions I didn't cover you think are important, think are unimportant, or think are just plain silly enough to add on to there.


    Ok, maybe not that last bit, but you get the idea.


    Also, if you see anything blow up while you're kicking the tires, please let us know as well.

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