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Everything posted by Kheprera

  1. Well, in the case of firearms, the rules for those are sooooo different from system to system you can't really do any kind of generalization at all on them.
  2. Try an extender. Sometimes I have the same problems with the paint drying way too fast. I also have two small metal pallets I use for mixing paint and to hold the paint while I work, and I keep a jar of clean water, two of water to use when rinsing the brush, a couple of towels, a roll of paper towels (you never know when you're going to spill something), and a jar with some Future poured in it. I have eyedroppers assigned to various jars and I'm constantly mixing, adding water, Future, and/or extender as I'm painting and trying to keep it wet sometimes so I can get that blending in. Doesn't always work, but I'm getting better. Also, I use those square, plastic cases that you can buy dice in to mount the minis one while I'm painting them. When I run out of those, I use some really old wooden spools. I just use some Elmers white glue to glue them onto the spool or container. It holds well, but will release the mini whenever you want it to.
  3. Firearms are none of the above. They are Ranged, Dex based, and it's an Exotic Weapon Proficiency for Firearms and that will cover all firearms (per the DMG, it's not in the PHB). They are also Optional. It's up to the DM of the game whether he/she will allow them or not. The only game of D&D I've ever seen them allowed was a Pirate themed game. Paladins: No, they are not equivalent to Shamans out of Shadowrun. Paladins do not have to have a diety, but they will follow the laws of the land, strive to make certain that those laws are followed by those they associate with, and will be the moral voice of the group. They are the Knight in Shining armor of old, off to save the damsel from the dragons hunger and whatnot. If they see a begger on the street being beaten by some punks, they will stop the punks and probably take the begger to get a hot meal. Classic good guy. Rangers are hunters, trackers, and your basic wilderness survival type. If you want to get from point A to point B, chances are you're going to need a Ranger if you've never traveled that route before simply so you don't get lost.
  4. Shield? Dagger? Punch knife? And I'd go with the one in the back for any of the above, but mainly you have to ask yourself... "Does he hold the sword in his left or right hand?" The answer there will tell you which one to hack away on. :D
  5. I have the Antagonists dragon that I painted about 10 years ago put together with superglue and I didn't pin it at all. No accelerator either. It has survived multiple moves, droppings and handling without a problem (except for the very bendable toes which are now weakened *sigh*). I think a lot depends on how much glue you use (superglue doesn't require much to acquire a strong hold) and the material. If it's too porous, superglue won't hold it (which is why it doesn't work with material). Also, some materials it does react to, and those chemical reactions can cause some toxic fumes as well as melting things.
  6. I always use a sewing needle or pin to mark a small indentation where I want to drill before I use the pin vice. This prevents the drill bit from slipping. I have an inexpensive one that you can apply pressure via finger or palm. The palm tends to work better as I can apply more pressure while spinning, but sometimes it's too much and the bit will get caught in the metal and stop moving. I don't use electric drills because lead and pewter is a very soft metal and has a low melting point. The higher speed of electric drills can cause the metal of the mini to heat up and I worry about causing damage. Another thing I notice is while filing flash off minis the metal gets melted onto my small files. I need to figure out how to get those bits off without ruining the file. Seems a waste to toss 'em and get new ones.
  7. In the first two printings of Original D&D (I think it was the first two printings), halfings were referred to as hobbits. That was changed in the third printing to halfings because TSR was sued due to copyright infringement. Same thing with the treemen, who were originally called Ents in the OD&D books. I have a copy of the 6th printing. I'd love a copy of the original 1st printing, but these days those are going for about $1.000.00 US or more.
  8. The higher the mps, the better your resolution, if I'm not mistaken (I'm still learning about digitals myself). At least, I've always heard to go with the higher megapixel.
  9. We've covered glue, and primer and sealer. This is a bit more advanced. I'm just getting into pinning, and I must say it works very well for the dragons I've been assembling (currently working on Deathsleet right now). Deathsleet is the second mini I've pinned, and I'm curious what everyone's techniques are, what kind of wire they use for the pin, and what everyone uses to drill. Are the key places to keep in mind while drilling? How deep should you go? Do you pin minis to the new base when you remove the old one? What size drillbit do you use? Do you prime and paint, then pin and assemble and seal as a last or do you assemble first and then prime, paint, and seal in order? Does the complexity of the model make any difference (like Deathsleet - fairly simple and straightforward in comparison to WoTC's Black Dragon - which has ten or more pieces)? Do you pin small pieces, like when a figure's arms are seperate, or even just the hand, like in the case of Lola? Currently I have a handheld pin vice that I got at Hobbytown, and a small container of mini-bits that I use, depending on the size of the model and wire I use. I have been using a very bendy, tiny gauge wire, but am thinking I should go to a larger gauge. To match up the holes, I snip a small piece of wire that barely pokes through the hole, put a dab of paint at the end, then dry fit the piece into the location. The paint will leave a mark where to drill. It's a little difficult to get the marking pin out, but I haven't failed so far (knocks on wood). So speak out on what your techniques are.
  10. I use Zap-a-Gap, and I fill gaps with Squadron Green putty. Normally that's after the pinning, though.
  11. Woo hoo again !! Ya'll are just making my night better and better !! :p
  12. Woo hoo!! My favorite Sculptress AND the rabbit !! *bounces happily* I can't wait to get my hands on this guy.
  13. I'd give you my Armoury, but I don't care for it. I don't know if I got a bad batch or what, but while the black is okay (if a bit pricey) the white looks more like the white fake snow you use on your Christmas Tree. Needless to say using it on a mini makes it just one powdery white blob, and that's with a thin coat. Krylon is cheaper by about half the cost of Armoury, is easily found at Wal-mart and other places, and works just as well.
  14. Is the Wizard of Hope, Reaper number 01402, still available? I'd love to get him and will order it immediately if it is.
  15. Oooohhh.. I love that artwork. I will be buying the mini now. Is the rabbit included? :p
  16. Actually, GR. I was at (of all places) K-Mart, and they had Krylon Spray Primer (white, natch) for 2.50 a can. So I stocked up. I also got carded for buying it. Me: 28 year old, 6'2", Bearded man. Got carded, for buying primer... --Oh, what a world we live in when decient people can't be left alone and are harassed for their shrubbery... --lstormhammer My FLGS, where I've been shopping at almost since they've been open, and where the person who normally waits on me when I buy primer or sealer knows me and how old I am, still asks for my ID. Too many kids out there huffing and not realizing how it can kill them in a nasty, painful, and brutal manner have required most places to lock up their paint. Strange thing is, I've noticed the Michael's I go to doesn't.
  17. I figured I was, lstorm. :D I've played so many games they all tend to merge into one. Okay, official D&D (now that I've pulled out my PHB). Simple Melee Weapons include, but are not limited to: Mace, Quarterstaff, Dagger, and Sickle. Simple Ranged Weapons include (again, not limited): Crossbow, Dart, and Sling. Martial Melee Weapons include (ad nauseaum): Axes, Swords, Longspears... and the Ranged Melee include the Shortbows and Longbows. Exotic Weapons include (you should have the idea now): Martial Arts weapons, Dire Flail, Whip, Mini and Repeating Crossbows, and the oh so loved Bastard Sword. Hope that helps. :D
  18. I think the D&D3e term for martial weapons are those weapons used in martial arts... katana, kushiri-gama, sai, nunchuku, etcetera. Simple weapons include common fighting weapons such as swords, knives, daggers. Exotic weapons include things like tridents, whips, spiked gauntlets, and such. I *could* be wrong, but I'd have to look at my books which are out of reach at the moment and I'm feeling really lazy right now. :p
  19. I find that amusing, seeing as you're from the UK. Galahad? Knights of the Round Table? Son of Lancelot? Stryder should be spelled Strider. Aka Aragorn, son of Arathorn, from the Lord of the Ring trilogy by John Ronald Raul Tolkein.
  20. Personally I can't get past seeing Halfings as "Hobbits" since that was the original intention of the originators of D&D. I don't know where the short little pixie/brownie/miniature-elf look came from, but for me Halfings have and always will be short, hairy feet, normally barefoot, and in appreciation of good food, drink, and pipeweed (tobacco). This "mini-human/elf" thing just doesn't cut it with me. I see a trim, lean Halfing more like the solid muscled miniature bar bouncer type. This is just me, of course. YMMV
  21. The first thing I noticed was the glare of the lights from the box in the background. You needed more lighting around the mini to counter that. Also, a polarizing filter can be used to remove glare, but it's not a necessary expense. Most likely it is that "hot spot" of light that threw off your camera readings so it underexposed your subject. Some of those photos could have been corrected at the photolab, however. I, personally, would have printed those lighter. You would have never seen the darker photos. As for the background, I feel it was "too busy" for the subject. One can't really tell what it is, so it's best to go with a slight fuzz to the background to make the mini stand out. You don't have to go to extremes, but bracketing (as I mentioned in another thread) can help you come up with at least one photo what will be acceptable. This is why so many pros take so many shots at a sitting even though one to three of the shots are actually used.
  22. If you're desperate and the only lights you have in the house are those tungsten, yellow-cast houselamps, there is a solution. My recommendation for you, however, if you go this route is to use 400 or 800 speed film, as the filter is quite dark and requires more light than normal. Blue No. 80A: You will have to increase your exposure to compensate for the loss of light on this filter, and because light meters can sometimes be fooled when there is a predominance of a certain color, bracket your shots. Bracketing your shots is a good way to get at least one good shot that you can post, and here's how you do it: Say your camera is reading the light so that you're shooting at an f-stop of 8. Step up the f-stop and shoot the first picture at an f-4. The next shot at f-5.6, the third at f-8, the next at f-11, and the last at f-16. Some of these will end up darker, and some lighter, than what you intend, but in the end you will find a good exposure that works for you. Now, keep in mind that when doing this your depth of field will switch, too. Also, if you have Apeture Priority on your camera, your shots will all end up coming up pretty much equal (which is why I've always loved completely manual cameras.. you have more control over your shots) with only the depth of field changing. But when using filters, keep in mind that you have to be certain that the lights you're using are not the "natural light" ones or your colors will end up funky. This is also another reason I highly recommend a tripod. Longer exposure times will result in a higher rate of camera shake. Another note on filters. I highly recommend for ALL camera users (digital and film alike) to go get a UV filter for your camera if you don't already have one. The UV filter will block out some of the haze cause by UV light, and it also protects your lens from dirt, debris, and scratches and doesn't do anything to interfere with color or lighting. These are easily found just about anywhere for any size of lens and they're pretty cheap. I'll go on and end this post here, since I know I can go on forever. If there are more questions on filters and lighting setups, go on and post those here and I'll answer as best I can.
  23. I *MIGHT* be interested, but I gotta think about it. I've been so burned out on online gaming lately... *sigh*
  24. Yeah, I've used that myself. My old Nikon EM sets the exposure automatically, so by working with the f-stop I was able to shoot from the top of the Tower of the Americas (in San Antonio), through the fence around it, and get some nice, long exposure night shots where you can see the lights of the cars moving (I should scan these in and post 'em). What's more, by using Depth of Field to my advantage, I was able to make the fence I was shooting through seem non-existant. I still need to play around with my N65 some more. I haven't really had time to go out and experiment with it.
  25. Michaels carries Delta Ceramcoat. Delta has two or more kinds of metal, paint on primers. one is white, the other is, strangely, clear. I picked up some of both to see how they fare. *sigh* I miss Partha Paints.
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