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Everything posted by Kheprera

  1. That happens to me with any spray primer I use.
  2. well, I'll warn you now. I just put in an order for 13 minis with my FLGS and that's going to run me about $50 - $60. *sigh* What I wouldn't give for a cool $500 to spend just on minis.
  3. What I hate is when I carefully clean up a mini and make certain I got all the mold lines and such and when I prime it, I find no less than five places that I've missed. *sigh*
  4. Kheprera


    Another idea just occurred to me... Aquarium supplies. Yes, you heard me right. I've seen wonderful ruins with massive pillars, and there are some great pictures of backgrounds for the back of the fish tank that come in various sizes that can give the illusion of being outside. Also, if you're shooting aquatic minis, some of those backdrops would be a wonderful addition to the ambiance of the picture.
  5. lstorm, honestly... go to a local camera store. Not a Walmart, or a Best Buy, but and honest to goodness place that deals in nothing but cameras and camera equipment. Talk to the salespeople, tell them exactly what you're going to be using it for, and what the bulk of the use is going to be. Also, talk to the people who repair cameras (any decent camera store will have a repair shop) and see if the camera you're looking at is something that is prone to breakage or constant maintenance. That's the best idea I can give you. Everyone has their own preference, be it digital or film, and trying to get an unbiased opinion is hard, even when I try to be unbiased. Talking to those people who deal with it day in and day out is a good place to start. Also, checking with trade magazines, Consumer Reports, etcetera, might also give you a good idea. Shopping for a good camera is tough. I love Nikon and Canon (except the Canon Sureshot... never saw so many of a single camera come through for repairs in my life). Minolta is also a good brand. Ziess is one of the best lenses/optics that can be found, but you also tend to pay for it. Sorry, I'm doing it again. I tend to ramble sometimes. :O
  6. Kheprera


    You want to go with a neutral color that doesn't have a lot of saturation to it. Red, blue, yellow, green, magenta... these colors will most often cause funky color shifts. Black is a decent color, but darker colors will tend to bleed into the background. A good example of this is ReaperIvy's green Ent and Hobbit pic. If it wasn't for the folds in the background and the reflection of the light source highlighting the fold, Mippin's hair would blend completely with the background. As it is, the background looks more dark gray than black, which helps, but there is still a darkening to the shadows. White, on the other hand, will reflect your light, oftentimes giving a washed out, flat image. A neutral toned gray is always an excellent choice, however a gray-blue or khaki color would work as well. Using a film camera, it's good to keep in mind that most photo labs will calibrate their machines and print to an 18% gray as their neutral point. You can puchase Gray Cards at any photo supply store and you can use that for the lab to calibrate to your film specifically. I know for some of the customers I used to have at the photolab I worked at did that and it made the color-matching part of our job much easier. Just keep a notebook of your settings and setup so that you can duplicate it every time. If you find a good setting and setup for your minis that you like, using the same one over and over again like R-Ivy does lessens the chance of funky problems. I'm getting long-winded again. Kit should have known better than to post this kind of topic with me around. :p *BONK!s self*
  7. Kick the Can? I've heard of Spin the Bottle, but Kick the Can?
  8. The WoTC mini crew on their boards was pretty disappointed. There was about a 75% overlap with the Kilsec faction box for Chainmail, so there weren't that many new figures in the box itself, and the Kilsec box, from what I understand, included more monsters, which made it a better deal than the CotSQ box. Personally, from what I've seen of the WoTC mini line, and the few that I own, they have one good mini, and even that one is a royal pain to put together. The black dragon was worth the money I paid for it. The rest are questionable. There may be some other monsters that are nice, but what I've seen of their pc/npc line, I'll just use Reapers or converted Reapers instead.
  9. Blacks, dark greys, dark blues... If you're looking at night-time camo style, then dark greens, dark browns, and dark grays.
  10. Is the the topic you were talking about LT? No, the forum only shows those threads that have been active for the past 30 days or so. There are threads around here from the very beginning, but you need to do a search and make certain you change the date at the bottom to search for topics from "this year" or "the beginning."
  11. True, there are professionals who have gone strictly digital, and the higher priced digitals are good cameras, but I'll still stand by what I said. With a film camera and the versitality it offers for special effects, you really can't beat it. For weddings and such, sure, a digital will work fine, however, I don't do weddings (too stressful) and tend towards more artistic. I push, pull, and do weird things with my film and camera that you really can't do with a digital as far as I've seen. I like both digital and film for they each have their uses, but my first love will always be the film. There are some cameras out there that do both, but they are pretty pricey. I'm trying to stay within the 300-400 price range. As for the Sony Mavica, I was looking at them at Best Buy today, and with what's being offered they seem a little behind the times now for the price. I hadn't really taken a good look at them in a while. As for the size, I like having a hefty camera in my hand. I can steady it better. Those small little pocket cameras don't fit in my hands and my fingers end up getting in the way. As for the depth of field, you're not going to see it through the lens. As long as you follow the rules under Crisp and Clear you should be fine, even if you can't see it through the lens. My Nikon N65 actually has a button I can push that will kind of show me what my depth of field is, while my older Nikon EM doesn't.
  12. If the bulk of your pictures are strictly for online use, then go digital. If you want to be able to pass pictures down to your kids or have something you can enlarge to 8x10 or more, then go film. The difference is pixel vs film grain. There is currently no way the pixel can get any smaller, and the grain in film is so small that with larger pictures the grain doesn't take away from the clarity of the picture as much as a pixel does. With pixels it's still easy to tell because the larger the image goes, the more pixelated it becomes. Also, even though computer printers are really high tech and give great quality these days, they still can not match the color resolution of photographic paper and film. Film can capture more colors more naturally. Yes, the problem arises with having to wait for film to be developed, however that shouldn't take more than an hour in most places with the One Hour Photo places. Even the place I trust the most with my film does it all in an hour and I get high quality photos from them. You also end up with an endless supply of hardcopy backups in case your hard drive crashes or the memory of the camera is blown. However, if everything you're doing is going to be strictly online and you won't be looking to make enlargements or anything from your photos, then go digital. It's faster for uploading pictures and you don't waste film if there's a picture you don't like. You can also instantly tell as soon as you take the picture if it's blurred, underexposed, overexposed, or whatever so you can take it again until it looks the way you want it. Price-wise there isn't much of a comparison. Of course, the more you shell out the better the camera, but that goes for both types. If you figure about $400 for a good quality camera, then you'll get a good quality camera of either kind. Personally, for digital, I like the Sony Mavica. You can get the one that writes to a mini-cd and/or a memory chip for around $4-5 hundred or so, which IMO is much better than to just a memory chip. This way if you run out of memory, just switch disks like you would a roll of film. Also, you can get close-up filters for digital cameras. I've seen them at Circuit City and Best Buy. You need to decide what you're going to be using the camera for in the long run. Me? I already have two film cameras. I want a digital now so I can get pics online faster for things such as minis and other stuff. But I like to have my film camera for things such as weddings, parties, Christmas, or when I got the bug to go shooting outside. Then again, I've been known to enlarge my photos from 8x10's up to 24x36 in size. Does that help, lstorm?
  13. While I don't tend to have such a cold problem here in Texas, I do experience every now and then, as well as some nasty humidity and super hot temps. During the summer I can't do much about it, but since spray primer sucks during 110 degree summers with 90% humidity I've gotten some paint-on primers to use inside. For the cold all I can recommend is a space heater and paint on primer unless you have someplace you can spray prime out of the freezing temps up there. Snow. *sigh* I want snow.
  14. Baaaaack on topic... I wonder if earwax would work. :p
  15. That was probably before they had sealers like we do now. Also, I doubt the sculpts were as detailed. The hobby has changed a lot.
  16. I like FR, but I had never read any of the novels until about a year ago, even though I'd played in it about 12 or so years ago. Never ran into Drizz't or Elminster either. Although I like FR, I tend to create my own worlds for the PC's to run around in. I like having control of how things work without a player saying that's not how it is in this or that novel or rulebook.
  17. You want the foil on the flash as shown in the picture. Now, the photo shows and actual Flash Bounce Hood. You don't have to get one. Foil or plain white paper/posterboard works just as well and is a lot cheaper. White paper will diffuse the light more than foil.
  18. That is because they are what I call "Player Smackdown NPCs." It's not because they aren't cool, uber-characters that are NPC smackdown characters, it's because of all the munchkinny little brats (and that goes for 45 year old brats, too) who want their 1st level normally evil race but his characer is good, dual sword weilding Ranger to start out with a giant lion companion that can change into a pendant/statue/whatever, and they expect that character to be as effective as the character they ripped off. Sometimes they don't even go to any lengths to hide that they completely ripped off the character. "Yeah, I want to play a super-cool, super good, super angst Drow Ranger who dual weilds scimitars and has a black panther animal companion." These are the ones I dub as being infected with "Lack of Imaginatius." So many people see a cool character in a book or movie and think "OOoooh, an elf so specialized with a bow he can shoot goblins dead while running over a bridge that is falling apart. I want to be that cool" or something along those lines rather than trying to create the character for themselves. Now, true, I've used some characters from books or movies to base a character on, but they end up changing so much that you can't tell where the idea originated from. Like Omen. Originally her concept was from Michelle Pfeiffer's character in Tequila Sunrise. Owner of restaurant, dater of drug dealer. Eventually, she became a mage who used both black and white magic superhero who is so dangerous in a kitchen that if she so much as enters one, a fire starts, although she still owns the restaurant. She has a completely different personality as well. She's a spoiled brat used to getting whatever she wants. Anyway, that's why so many people hate Elminster/Drizz't these days. They are the big fantasy characters right now and everyone seems to want to play clones of them (go check out some yahoo or irc D&D rooms and see how many drizz'ts and stuff are there) and people are getting sick and tired of it all.
  19. My typical standby game systems are D&D 3rd ed and Hero System, however I've played... Shadowrun AD&D 1st ed AD&D 2nd D&D Basic D&D Expert Vampire the Masquerade Mage the Ascension Runquest Gurps (Superhero, Fantasy, and SciFi) Top Secret Gamma World Aftermath Cyberpunk Rifts (blech, hated it) Call of Cthulhu (Chaosium) Deadlands Villians and Vigilantes Twilight 2000 Theives World Sanctuary ...and probably several others I can't recall off the top of my head.
  20. Lots of minis unprimed and unpainted. Some not even put together year. Several primed and in the stage of being painted but only half finished. Mostly I haven't been working on any for a few weeks since I've been busy and/or exhausted.
  21. Here's some stuff I discovered. Artifical Floral stems provide a variety of materials for jobs. I just finished making several wall hangings, wreaths, and flower arrangements and I garnered some basing material from these things. 1) The wire stems use a nice, heavy wire perfect for pinning. Some is a heavier gage than others, but a lot of it will work very well. For a cheap alternative, look for the green fabric wrapped floral wire in a variety of gages. A package of them is under a dollar. 2) Especially with the Christmas florals out, a lot of them have a coating over the hard plastic stems. This coating can be cut off and used for basing. I got some that almost looks like white-tipped short grass that, if combined with fake snow, will give a good early frost look to a mini. 3) Plastic coated wire stems... some of these are thin enough to use to create small trees, or large trees, or dead trees when painted right. With the bendy wire in them they can be altered to look spooky or alive or whatever. With some added sculpty, you can even use them as interior armatures for creating trees that have faces for that eerie, moss draped forest. Just some of my ideas anyway. What are yous?
  22. Precision deals in used equipment. Email them and see if they have any used closeup filters and if they'll deal with Canada. They might. If not, maybe I can get them and mail them to you if you send me the money. Precision has been around for a LONG time. I might also be able to get a deal with my old boss if he can still order equipment. He used to sell a lot of cameras and equipment (some used as well) and has been in business for over 60 years (his dad started the business originally). You might also be able to find them on Ebay. Huge Range but ends in a little over an hour Ends in 10 minutes There are more but I just don't have the time to run through it all. Do a search like this: Go to Advanced Search Search in Catagories: Photo Search Title: 58mm filter +1 +2 +4 Click on "In titles and descriptions" You'll get a lot of auctions for it. Just look and even though it might say "Tiffen," "Canon," "Cokin," or whatever it's still the same thing. Some of these sets are going for about $30, some less, some more. Some are new, some are used. Some are even specialized dealers in camera equipment. Give a shot. You'll probably end up with an excellent deal.
  23. I don't know where you're shopping at, but they shouldn't be that expensive. A set of Hoya in the 46mm - 55mm is only $59.95 (different sets for different sizes). Hoya 58mm and 67mm closeup set is $69.95 62mm is $89.95. Make certain you request a "Hoya close-up set (3) +1,+2 and +4 w/case" Since yours is a 58mm lens you should only pay $69.95 for the entire set. This cost is a lot less than the standard charge of $300+ for a new macro lens. Check out Precision Camera which is located here in Austin. They really have great prices and a good selection (and it's where I get all my photography needs except developing). You should have no problems with the 28-80 zoom in shooting your terrain. Use the depth of field rules I gave you, try using the 28mm setting (that's wide angle and you're going to want the width for terrain) and you should be good to go. You can always use the zoom function to pick out details. Your best bet is to play around taking pictures of your terrain first. Don't expect your first few rolls of film to be professionally perfect. Trust me, they won't me. Mine definately weren't. You have to play in order to learn, and you have to learn the certain quirks and habits of your particular camera. I'm still learning the ones of my new Nikon.
  24. Cool, thanks a gajillion Kit. Enjoy your holiday. I won't bug you at all anymore !! :-) *hugs*
  25. Leaving a figure in Pine-sol can and most likely will discolor your mini. I don't recommend it for older, lead-based minis. I've heard that 3M Safest Strip is the best paint stripper as it doesn't discolor the mini, is a paste, no fumes, gets the paint in the little crevices, cleans off well, and is made specifically for stripping paint. I haven't tried it yet, though.
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