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Everything posted by Kheprera

  1. You can use the zoom lens if you get the closeup lenses. Truly, this I have done. I started doing closeup photography about 21 years ago. You don't need to go get a special macro lens. The closeup filters (they just screw on) will be a LOT cheaper than a new lens. Now then, for lighting... I suggest having the following on hand: Shutter release (helps reduce camera shake) Flash (a good one that you can adjust the angle of the light) Aluminum Foil (I'll get to this in a minute) Tripod (small, large, doesn't matter as long as you have one) Small piece of cloth (big enough to use as a backdrop) of a neutral gray, white, or bluish color Scotch Tape (getting a little weird here yet?) Book/s to use to raise the mini on level with the camera lens and something to drape the cloth on behind the subject. Now then... shape the foil into a rough triangular shape with one end not pointy (actually, none of the ends have to be pointy, just a general triangular shape). Tape the foil to your lens shiney side towards the light, so that it goes up over your light. Point the light straight up and then angle the foil towards the front at about a 45 degree angle. This gives you a reflected light as opposed to direct light from your flash which can cause harsh shadows and a darkening of your background. Try and shoot outdoors on an overcast day. If this is unfeasible, then indoors with a flash with 200 or 400 speed film. Indoors; have a light source flanking both sides of your subject. Try and use those new GE natural light bulbs if possible. If you have to use Tungsten lighting, use 200 speed film and a flash, otherwise you're likely to get some severe yellowing of the color that, no matter how much you color correct, will not allow the natural color of the subject to come though. Set the mini up level with the lens. Don't angle the camera to the mini as you'll distort the depth of the mini (from top the feet will be smaller than the head and from the bottom the feet will be larger than the head)... straight on is how you want it. Have the stand (books is what I use) and the back (another book) draped in the cloth noted above. Note about cloth colors: Deep reds, blues, greens and other bright colors, while pretty, can cause the printers used these days to overcompensate, thus a photo with a lot of red will have a cyan cast to everything... too yellow will have a blue cast... this is especially notable on skin tones and since you're taking pictures of minis, truecolor and skin tones are extremely important. Use the shutter release to press the shutter as opposed to using a finger. No matter how hard you try, you can cause camera shake with your hand actually touching the camera a lot easier, especially when dealing with close-up work. When you take the film in to get developed... don't use a grocery store/drug store/department store type place... go to an actual Film Developer. You'll get better results and quality. As my old boss used to say "I have a deal with the local grocery stores... they don't develop pictures and I don't sell lettuce." Also, tell them to "Print for the subject." When you specify this they should automatically print the photo so that it isn't too dark or too light for your subject. If they don't, get them to redo it. They should redo it for free (at least, the lab where I worked did and still does... another reason not to go to a local grocer or Walmart). Film Brands: Don't be fooled into thinking that Kodak film is the best. It isn't always. Kodak tends to have cooler, more saturated colors. Agfa is warmer and depending on the kind of film can have anything from lightly saturated to deeply saturated colors. Fuji: I love this stuff. A bit warmer than Kodak and cooler in color than Agfa, it can be very saturated in color as well. I prefer the Fuji Reala as the colors aren't quite as saturated and it's made specifically for portraits/taking pics of people. I know a lot of wedding photographers who use it. There are other brands... DO NOT USE that film you get in the mail that can only be developed by the company that sends it to you. 1) the film is unused movie film that is repackaged. While it can be used... 2) it's very brittle and breaks easily in the camera or in the machines the mail in companies use to splice the film onto large reels for developing and 3) you can only get it developed at one or two places in the country. How do I know? I used to work for one of those places. Don't ask me the number of times we had film break in the middle, thus ruining pictures. Not to mention the number of times those machines broke down. Okay, I know this has been a long post. If there are any more questions, please ask. That's all I can think of at the moment.
  2. Soooooo, where's that pdf file for mail-in orders? I REALLY want to order those holiday Sophie minis !!
  3. I'll post more tonight when I get home. I have one minute to post anything right now... Get some closeup filters: +1, +2 and +4 that will fit on your lens. There is another thread here somewhere that I went more in depth into apeture, depth of field, and how they work. The Maxxum is a good camera, but the zoom lens isn't really made for closeup work. I'll walk you through how to use it for closeup work when I get back from work tonight, though. But you're going to need those closeup filters to use the zoom lens as a macro. Edit, here's the post on Depth of Field: Crisp and Clear Thread
  4. Smokin', you got the kind of job the rest of us just dream about. --Ary, workin' for the taxman.
  5. Kheprera


    Gimme Gimme Gimme !! Mine Mine Mine !! PM Me.
  6. I still haven't figured out how to use the Epicast bases, though. I mean, I'd hate to ruin what they've done with drilling and gluing.
  7. Oops. sorry Ron. I saw the Reaper logo thing and immediately assumed it was Kit. Ya'll need different avatars !! I also tend to post here before 6am, just after I get up. Weird time on the posts though. It's 5:50am here, and I'm in Austin, and the same time zone as Reaper, yet the time on the post show two hours later. ??? Later? That's not even Eastern time zone... that's... probably somewhere in the Atlantic or something. What gives?
  8. The color of the nipples does not always correspond to the color of the lips. Generally they are a shade or two darker than the skin tone. Take a look at some pictures (no, you don't have to go out and buy a Playboy) and see how many different variations there are, especially in different racial characteristics. African Americans, Oriental, Scandinavian, Germanic, Spanish... there are a lot of variations in coloring that should be taken into account. Mostly it depends on how you want them to look. Or you could file them smooth and paint her as if she has a top of some sort.
  9. Move here. Dragons Lair is awesome... or order from them online. Great people. http://www.dlair.net/
  10. Mine gets a shipment of some sort every Thursday. They need to restock paints, though. I've nearly cleaned them out of Reaper Paints. Hear that guys? Pass it on that Dragons Lair needs to be reminded to refill their Reaper Pro Paints !!
  11. What are you doing still at work? GO HOME already !! Go home, all Reaperpeeps. Go home, eat mass quantities of food, enjoy your holiday, and don't come back until Monday !! :p I wish I was your boss anyway, so I could give you all some much deserved time off.
  12. Can we get some directions with these minis on how to put them together? As for the scarab... the body itself is halved... top and bottom. Legs I *think* attach to the bottom, but that wouldn't look all that realistic at all... I'm still trying to figure the darned thing out.
  13. That sounds cool. I also have to voice my own displeasure with UPS. I'd much rather deal with the USPS as they are much closer to me if they can't fit the package in my box or can't/won't deliver it to the manager's office. With UPS I'm forced to go well out of my way to pick up my package if there is no one home, and not having a car makes that very difficult as they aren't accessible through public transportation here. And that's just one of the many problems I have with UPS. I find the postal service is cheaper, faster, more reliable, and generally friendlier. Besides, it helps support your government, and my paycheck so I can spend more on Reaper minis !! :p Anyway, you might just pass along the vocalization of how we feel about shipping companies. Maybe we should take a survey....
  14. What about those of us who have zero credit cards and no checking account? Personally, I deal in cash and money orders and would much rather pay with a money order. I can even pay in cashier's checks if need be. I do tend to spend a lot online (specifically ebay, but that's my addiction) and I also support my FLGS. I know !! We can ALL send lstormhammer or Lady Tam our money and addresses, one of them can order the mini for us en masse, and then mail them off to those who paid !! Or those with credit cards can just be really nice people who buy the mini for us anyway !! Yeah, that's a great idea !! :p
  15. I just want to know how the bleep the giant scarab fits together !!
  16. woo hoo !! And they accept money orders !! WHEE!!!
  17. drill a hole running the length of the sword and some holes at intervals along the edge. insert one of those microscopic lights. Viola...a glowing sword. :p PS: No, never tried it, but thought it was worth a shot.
  18. Ask your FLGS. Maybe they'll cut you a deal.
  19. I would start out, personally, with the primary colors. You can mix virtually any color using just the primaries. From there you can move on to the more complex colors... Basic starting set for me: Flesh White Black Red Blue Yellow Brown (because it's such a hard color to mix) Silver or Gunmetal (for metal) Gold (for ornaments) all told, in Reaper Paints, that would run you about $20.00, not counting the primer of your choice. As a starter/beginner, I'd probably recommend grey or maybe black. Grey is neutral and black helps eliminate the need for blacklining or trying to the fine details to stand out. Primer color is really personal preference, although I use any from clear, to black, to white, and grey, depending on the effect I want on the mini I'm painting. White lets the colors stand out more vividly. Black gives good shadows and dulls color, good for those dark, evil minions and BBEGs. Grey is a good neutral, as is a clear (made by Delta Ceramcoat). I do recommend a good light, preferrably one of the "True Natural" lights, like Ottlight. Ottlights are pricey, but mine was well worth it.. desktop, purchased the magnifier seperately, and is less than 1 1/2 feet tall and folds up. No clamping to tables involved. It's also a LOT cheaper than a swingarm light with the magnifier (which run from about $35 (for the el-cheaper to $175 for the heavy duty good lighting great magnifier). Lighting is important for seeing the mini well and blending colors. That's about all I got there.
  20. So far as I know all they have at the moment is the starter kit. I don't know of any other set, nor have I seen one at my FLGS or on their site. I've gotten all but ten of the colors they currently make anyway. They need more colors. Here that Reaper? YOU NEED MORE COLOR SELECTIONS !! FEED MY ADDICTION !! :p
  21. I was pondering using some sort of crystal diode when I get Deathsleet. Still trying to figure that one out, though.
  22. Just remember it isn't frosting and should not be eaten. :p
  23. And I got way more mileage than you, hun.
  24. *steals BONK! back and BONK!s lstormhammer* Shush you young'n. Until you're as old and grey as I am you have zero room to talk !! :p
  25. Blone hair isn't really yellow. It's more of a light tan color. Go with that thinking and you'll do okay. I'd start with an ink of dark brown and go progressively lighter, as lstorm said, maybe just adding a HINT of yellow to the mix. Otherwise the figures will end up looking like Yu-Gi-Oh. :p
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